You're an idiot. An idiot who cannot grasp how many variables go into causing tire wear.

What kind of tires did you put on the accord? What kind of tires did you put onto the civic hatch? Civics are much lighter and don't need nearly the speed or load rating to do the same job, whereas an accord, especially if it's 10 years newer than your hatch, weighs quite a bit more and to perform the same way will need much stiffer tread and sidewalls, thus the higher speed rating. Secondly, different tread patterns feather in different ways. Specifically Toyo Spectrums are TERRIBLE about feathering BADLY unless you CROSS rotate them EVERY rotation. Without rotating every 6k miles with a modified X rotation you will get nasty feather even if you front-to-back rotate every 3k miles. Toyo has even acknowledge it and replaced tires under manufacturer defect when it was actually customer ignorance that caused the problem.

Also, your "Staggered wheels" that you "never rotate" often require a very specific load and speed rating along typically with being a size that with the right load and speed rating has a reinforced edge with a tread design that helps to prevent feathering.

Lastly, just so you know they do not give away free rotations because they give you the "so called free inspection" (Which by the way IS free, not just called free) since with a rotation there IS no under-the-hood or under-the-chassis inspection. Will they tell you if they find a CV-axle has sprayed it's grease all over your wheel and hub? Yeah, they will, because they see that, AND your brakes, when they take the tires off. Do they go out of their way to find stuff? No. Moron. The only time you get an "inspection" is when you get an oil change, which, PS. Is $40 at Kauffman. Second, they tell you things you need based on either their experience (Which considering someone decided it was a good idea to pay them to do it, they must have) or what your manufacturer recommends. Are there idiots out there? Sure. There are also people like you who like to blame people who're just doing their jobs for having absolutely ZERO information on a subject and somehow believing themselves to be smarter than people who spend 40 hours a week at their job doing it day-in, day-out as their living.

Also, just using lowering springs is NOT the "correct" way to lower a car. I'm assuming the OP has stock shocks or stock looking shocks with aftermarket lowering springs. This is not only bad for your shocks, but also your control arms, steering knuckles, hub bearings and tires. Matched shock-and-spring are the absolute minimum. If you have LESS travel because of shorter springs, you must have STIFFER shock/strut to compensate. Basic suspension knowledge.