Redline Water Wetter.... worth the $8?

[Total_Blender]

I've got an engine thats been running really hot (they tend to do that when you bore them over and increase compression) and if this stuff lives up to its claims and all the hype I've heard about it on other forums I think I'll give it a try.

Water Wetter Super Coolant® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems.

· Doubles the wetting ability of water
· Improves heat transfer
· Reduces cylinder head temperatures
· May allow more spark advance for increased torque
· Reduces rust, corrosion and electrolysis of all metals
· Provides long term corrosion protection
· Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
· Prevents foaming
· Reduces cavitation corrosion
· Complexes with hard water to reduce scale

Thinking about picking a bottle of his stuff up but I'd like to hear from more people who have used it. I'm weary of additives, especially ones that make outrageous claims like "drops your cooling system temp by as much as 30 degrees!," but people on other forums swear by this stuff.

Edit: I might also mention that I am using a regular copper/brass radiator on the car right now but I just bought an aluminum rad and a 180 degree thermostat that I will probably install today. With the regular radiator and a stock 190 (?) deg, thermostat it runs up to 212 degrees and if I get it on the highway if it will just keep climbing. Crazy part is it runs cooler in traffic than it does at speed. So I'm thinking my regular radiator is clogged or something

[EmminoDaGreat]

Yes, I have used it in a few cars, actually works great.

[Trigger]

yes, works great for your car with either radiator

[Atlblkz06]

This product wont reduce overall temperatures, just reduce hot spots.

You wont "see" any results from this - just have to trust that its doing its job.

If you're "seeing" results - placebo effect!

[B18c1Turboed]

works great in are race cars!!!

[UpSideDownDesi]

This product wont reduce overall temperatures, just reduce hot spots.

You wont "see" any results from this - just have to trust that its doing its job.

If you're "seeing" results - placebo effect!

x2 water temps won't go down much, but you won't have random hot spots. This+25%Antifreeze+75% distilled water = a good mixture.

[Elbow]

I've seen good results from it like others said, lots of race cars use it.

[Total_Blender]

I got some distilled water the other day. I'm also thinking of switching to Dex-Cool antifreeze as I have read that its better with the aluminum parts of the engine. Since I'm replacing the radiator with a brand new part and also the thermostat I think it will be safe to switch to the orange drank as long as I give it a good flush. I'm going to bypass the heater core and replace it with a new one later on as it is probably the original one that came with this particular car and who knows what kind of crap is in it.

Off to teh parts store to get some water wetter

[Total_Blender]

So I flushed the system and installed my new radiator today. I didn't get to add any water wetter because by the time I finished with the antifreeze there just wasn't any more room in the radiator. But I am replacing the heater core soon so there should be room for the water wetter then. As it is with the aluminum radiator, the Dex-Cool and a 180 degree thermostat, I didn't get above 190 at all on the test drive and thats with a gallon or so lower capacity because of the heater core bypass.

[teh_mugen18]

keep us updated FTW

[Total_Blender]

I swear I read on several forums that Dex-Cool was the stuff to use with cooling ststems that contain a lot of aluminum as it helps prevent electrolysis. Having a cooling system with a lot of different metals in it... aluminum radiator and water pump, steel water pump impeller, iron block/head (hopefully an aluminum head eventually) and a brass/copper heater core, electrolysis is really a worry. And Dex-Cool is supposed to last longer than regular antifreeze.

Today when I searched all I found about Dex-Cool were links to the class action lawsuit saying it destroys intake manifold gaskets. Luckily on this particular engine the coolant goes nowhere near the intake gasket, but I am worried about it eating the head gasket. I wonder if all this class action business is just a bunch of goobers who believe GM when GM tells them they can go 160k without flushing the coolant.

Before I add the heater core I might go ahead and flush it a few times and go back to regular green antifreeze.

[Init2winit]

Yeah man, dexcool is not that great. I would get that orange **** out of there, and put the good ol' green back in it. As far as the water wetter goes, that is mainly used in race cars that don't use coolant, just water. It lowers the boiling point of water.

[Slomaro Z28]

My car runs @ around 220*, and thats normal operating temp.. But I do have a cast iron block.....

And BTW...Dex-Cool= , it sucks....it cost more and doesn't work as good or last as long.

[Total_Blender]

More about the car... its a 1962 Ford Falcon. I just finished rebuilding a 1978 200 straight six engine for it with a mild cam upgrade and a little more compression. The car originally came with a 170 six. So the extra 30 cubes (plus about 6 more from boring it 40 over) are a nice improvement. The car also has a C4 automatic.

As it was when I bought it: points ignition, 12v generator, FUBAR shift linkage and a whole lot of dirt.




Seeing how dirty everything is in that pic you can imagine what was in the cooling system. You know its bad when you drain the coolant and dip a magnet into the bucket and the magnet comes out covered in rust




These are the rod bearings I pulled out of the above engine, worn all the way down to the copper (I used another engine for the rebuild... the one these bearings came out of was scrapped)

I'll get some pics of the new stuff when I have a chance when I have a chance.