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  1. #1
    F.A.N.A.T.I.C. primespark22's Avatar
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    sorry bout that its a 97 civic dx coupe, yeah and its a 4 lug

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    Certified Gearhead wwli's Avatar
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    It's always a good idea to use Anti-seize on the lug nut threads. This will help it from rusting and from getting stuck.

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    JDM TYTE AnthonyF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwli
    It's always a good idea to use Anti-seize on the lug nut threads. This will help it from rusting and from getting stuck.
    No. Do not put anti-seize on your lugs. You'll get a false tq rating when tightening down the lugs. Hondas require 80 ft lbs.

    -Ant.
    The Carbon Fibered R6

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    Certified Gearhead wwli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyF
    No. Do not put anti-seize on your lugs. You'll get a false tq rating when tightening down the lugs. Hondas require 80 ft lbs.

    -Ant.
    I have always use Anti-sieze on all of my cars so the threads do not dry out. Please remember that if your tighten a dry thread it will give you a false reading as well.
    My recommendation is to use a little bit to keep the threads from getting stuck.
    Just my $0.02.

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    Turbo-Wired
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwli
    I have always use Anti-sieze on all of my cars so the threads do not dry out. Please remember that if your tighten a dry thread it will give you a false reading as well.
    My recommendation is to use a little bit to keep the threads from getting stuck.
    Just my $0.02.
    Anti-Seize has been repeatedly shown to lead to lug-wiggle, where nuts will come loose and cause your studs to shatter as the wheel is loose. Just because it hasn't happened to you yet doesn't mean it won't.

    Next, tightening on SOLID DRY STUDS will not give a false torque reading. The only thing that will give a false torque reading on a dry stud is the threads being damaged and starting to fold. If this is the case, it's time to replace the studs anyways. It's easy to check when this happens because you can feel it with a torque wrench, it'll feel mushy even when the wheel is firmly seated on the hub.

    Last, if the lugnuts came off and the shop was the last one to put it on. GO SEE THE SHOP AND TELL THEM THEY BROKE IT. Normal wear and tear will NEVER cause your studs to break off like that. Studs are designed to last as long as they aren't abused. I have seen 25-30 year old cars with original studs in good condition. I have also seen 2-3 year old cars with studs that you can barely get a lugnut on without it grinding out metal shavings because the threads are so damaged from abuse.

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    Certified Gearhead wwli's Avatar
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    I agree with you on some part. However this using of Anti-seize is a highly debated subject where there is no correct or wrong answer. Some have good experiences with it and some don't so it's difficult to say. Using too much of it will cause damage and incorrect use will cause damage so basically use at your own risk.

    If you want to make it easier and not listen to other people's BS then you can just keep the studs clean. Then you won't have to use anything.

    What Kaiser said on the last part that will be difficult to prove that they did it because shops are tricky but you sometimes get lucky so go luck with that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiser
    Anti-Seize has been repeatedly shown to lead to lug-wiggle, where nuts will come loose and cause your studs to shatter as the wheel is loose. Just because it hasn't happened to you yet doesn't mean it won't.

    Next, tightening on SOLID DRY STUDS will not give a false torque reading. The only thing that will give a false torque reading on a dry stud is the threads being damaged and starting to fold. If this is the case, it's time to replace the studs anyways. It's easy to check when this happens because you can feel it with a torque wrench, it'll feel mushy even when the wheel is firmly seated on the hub.

    Last, if the lugnuts came off and the shop was the last one to put it on. GO SEE THE SHOP AND TELL THEM THEY BROKE IT. Normal wear and tear will NEVER cause your studs to break off like that. Studs are designed to last as long as they aren't abused. I have seen 25-30 year old cars with original studs in good condition. I have also seen 2-3 year old cars with studs that you can barely get a lugnut on without it grinding out metal shavings because the threads are so damaged from abuse.

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    F.A.N.A.T.I.C. primespark22's Avatar
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    yeah i went ahead and got the four studs for that side and did the work myself but thanks for the input fellas



    so do i or dont i put grease?lol

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    JDM TYTE AnthonyF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwli
    I have always use Anti-sieze on all of my cars so the threads do not dry out. Please remember that if your tighten a dry thread it will give you a false reading as well.
    My recommendation is to use a little bit to keep the threads from getting stuck.
    Just my $0.02.
    That might be the case for people who take their wheels off every 50-100k miles. But if your wheels come on and off quite often, do not use it.
    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20
    never put anything on your wheel studs. if that was so it would be recomended from the factory. what happened is more than likely they didnt start the nuts by hand first and just hit them and crossed them all the way up. i would personally took it back to them and said fix your f@@k up! but thats just me.
    exactly.
    Quote Originally Posted by khaxnguyen
    you broke your studs because you didnt let the lug studs cool down after driving it. common mistake
    What? These are street cars, the stud gets up to what temp? maybe 150º? We test drive cars nice and long at my shop and then we pull them in and remove the nuts. Only time they break is when the idiot before use jammed them on and cross threaded them.

    -Ant.
    The Carbon Fibered R6

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