THIS WEEKEND!!!!! clutch/headgasket.

[Killer]

Alright guys, this weekend i'm going to be replacing my clutch, headgasket(and all gaskets associated with that), and thermostat....

Hopefully thescotsman, and 81911 will be helping me with the clutch...

and i know how to disassemble the head to replace the gasket.. (also know how to do the thermostat)...

the thing i'm unsure of is the timing.... i really screwed up on my old hatch on this... but that was before i even knew that timing had to be set...

now i know that it has to be done... i know how to set the pistons to top dead center... but i'm not sure on valve timing....


if i'm not mistaken... if i mark everything as i'm taking it off... so that i can line everything back up when i reassemble.. then i won't have to reset the timing...

is this correct? or is it better to just reset everything???


this is a 95 civic ex... vtax engine!!!! d16... (1.6 liter)...

any help on this would be greatly appreciated... for whatever reason i'm the worlds worst google searcher.. and i can never find answers to stuff like this online.. or any diagrams/manuals that you don't have to pay for...

reps to those who post useful information...

beer and food to those who help with the task at hand!!!(i'm located in kennesaw.. right off of wade green and shiloh!!)

[Motivation]

Mark everything first and try it that way. It may still get knocked off though. I believe it has three lines on the pulley. I'll try to find a pic and post it up of the position it goes in. Also remember if it is knocked off try turning it 180 degrees (ignition timing I believe.) But if you can remember how the pulley goes on and with the number one piston top dead center it shouldn't be that bad. Just make sure you are exact cause even one tooth off is no fun of a ride.

[Motivation]

not sure if this will help any or not. Got it from honda-tech to describe it better.

. Position the crankshaft and cam pulleys at TDC.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC (top dead center).
NOTE: Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the lower arrow pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the cam pulley with the pointer on the back cover.
3. Install the timing belt.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt.
5. Rotate the crankshaft (w/ 17mm socket) about 4 or 6 turns clockwise so that the belt may fit in the position on the pulleys.
6. Adjust the timing belt tension.
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the cam pulley at TDC.
8. If the cam pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning.

[AnthonyF]

Mota beat me to it. Do what he says. TDC is KEY!!!

since it is only a single cam, it is very easy. be sure to do the water pump while your in there.

-Ant.

[Motivation]

How ya liking the truck ant?

[Killer]

Mota beat me to it. Do what he says. TDC is KEY!!!

since it is only a single cam, it is very easy. be sure to do the water pump while your in there.

-Ant.

is the water pump hard? never done one...

not sure if it's in my budget either :/ have to check on that...

[AnthonyF]

DO THE WATER PUMP. No ands ifs or buts. It is right there beind the timing belt. They are only like 50 bucks +/- You'd be pissed when u put it all back together and it starts leaking. And timing belt. Yes, it may be a little bit more money but it'll save you time in the end.

Mota-Loving it a lot. It has one problem with the seat belt, but so far so good. I like I can go around corners like a sports car.

-Ant.

[Killer]

not sure if this will help any or not. Got it from honda-tech to describe it better.

. Position the crankshaft and cam pulleys at TDC.
A. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC (top dead center).
NOTE: Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the lower arrow pointer on the oil pump.
B. Align the TDC marks on the cam pulley with the pointer on the back cover.
3. Install the timing belt.
4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, and retighten it after tensioning the belt.
5. Rotate the crankshaft (w/ 17mm socket) about 4 or 6 turns clockwise so that the belt may fit in the position on the pulleys.
6. Adjust the timing belt tension.
7. Check the crankshaft pulley and the cam pulley at TDC.
8. If the cam pulley is not positioned at TDC, remove the timing belt and adjust the positioning.

i'll be honest... i don't understand from like 5-8... lol...

... i guess i'm just worried cause i spent like 300 for everything on the old hatch.. screwed it up and had to pay another 1100 at a shop to get it all replaced...

[Motivation]

try this... it should tell you everything about doing the water pump and timing. a lot of pictures on it too. hope it helps bro.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=649277

[AnthonyF]

Killer-i dont usually recommend this most times, but get one of those haynes manuals. I dont like them...or....I can print off the timing diagram and fax them to you.

-Ant.

[Motivation]

I realize it is a different car but should be the same thing you are looking for.

[AnthonyF]

Great write up. Exactly how it is done. I have a lift so...it's a little easier for me.

-Ant.

[Killer]

DO THE WATER PUMP. No ands ifs or buts. It is right there beind the timing belt. They are only like 50 bucks +/- You'd be pissed when u put it all back together and it starts leaking. And timing belt. Yes, it may be a little bit more money but it'll save you time in the end.

Mota-Loving it a lot. It has one problem with the seat belt, but so far so good. I like I can go around corners like a sports car.

-Ant.

suck.... i mean i know what you're saying is right... if i'm gonna do it... i should do it all...

the problem is if i buy all these parts i'm gonna be running pretty low on cash... and i only get paid once a month.. at the end of the month... ... i wasn't expecting to have to do all of this.. i knew the clutch was going bad.. .so i bought a clutch and that was it... next thing i know the car starts running warm.. and i find oil in my coolant... i expected the car to have problems.. just not all at the same time...

i'll figure something out though... at this point i kinda have to...


keep the help coming though!!!!

[Killer]

yeah, that write up helps a lot.. printing it out now...

thanks.. repped you motivation...

ant.. i'll have to hit you up when i can!

[Motivation]

No problem man, let us know how it works out for ya

[AnthonyF]

its no thang mang. I like to help out decent people.

This isnt your only car correct? Just do it in steps.

-Ant.

ps-kno any down to earth females looking to move in vinings area? These roommate sites suck. lolol

[Motivation]

lol at Ant's plug for roommate

[AnthonyF]

hahahahaha Hey, i gotta do what I gotta do.

-Ant.

[Killer]

yeah, this is now my primary vehicle.. only other thing i have is a bike... which is a no go until i fix the turn signals.. even then i don't have a lic.. and i take my dog to work with me.. he can't really sit in my lap on a bike!! lol

check out this write up i got off autozone... i just copied and pasted the info that i needed... (or i think this is all i needed.... got all kinds of diagrams too.. i'll post the link to their dyi section..) http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm (specific to the civic... but you can pull up most vehicles on that site... this has to be something new because i couldn't find anything last year when i was doing this!!!)

\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

TIMING BELT COVER AND SEAL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the left front wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the left front wheel well splash shield.
5. If equipped, remove the power steering belt and pump.
6. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the adjust pulley with bracket and the belt.
7. Remove the power steering bracket, loosen the alternator adjust-bolt and through-bolt and remove the alternator belt.
8. Use a suitable device to support the engine. Remove the engine side support bolts and nut and then remove the side mount rubber.
9. Remove the valve cover, the crankshaft pulley bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
10. Remove the timing belt upper and lower cover.
11. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Apply engine oil to the crankshaft pulley. On 1984-88 models, tighten the pulley bolt to 83 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). On 1988-91 models, tighten the pulley bolt to 119 ft. lbs. (165 Nm). On 1992-95 models, tighten the pulley bolt to 134 ft. lbs. (134 Nm).



OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the timing belt cover and the timing belt.
3. Remove the crankshaft timing sprocket.
4. Using a suitable seal removal tool, remove the seal from the front of the engine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Place a thin coat of oil on the seal lip prior to installation. Use a suitable seal driver to install the seal. Be sure to install the seal with the open (spring) side facing the inside of the engine




TIMING BELT AND TENSIONER

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Slightly raise and support the driver's side of the vehicle, remove the driver's side wheel. Remove the driver's side wheel well splash shield.
2. Remove the air conditioning compressor adjust pulley with bracket and the belt (if equipped with air conditioning).
3. Remove the side engine mount bracket. Loosen the alternator adjust bolt and through-bolt then remove the belt.
4. Remove the engine support bolts and nuts, then remove the side mount rubber.
5. Unfasten the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
6. Remove the timing belt upper cover and lower cover.
7. Mark the rotation of the timing belt (for easy installation). Loosen the adjusting bolt, then remove the timing belt.

Inspect the timing belt. Replace it if it has been in service longer than 90,000 miles, if it is oil soaked (find and correct the source of the oil leak), or if it is worn on the leading edges of the belt teeth.
To install:

8. Double check the position of the engine. The timing pointer must be aligned with the mark on the flywheel; the cam pulley must be set so the small dot or the word UP is vertical and the marks on the edges of the pulley are aligned with the surface of the head.
9. Install the belt on the pulleys.
10. Be sure to adjust the timing belt as follows:

The tensioner is spring-loaded to apply proper tension to the timing belt automatically after making the following adjustment. Be sure to always adjust the timing belt tension with the engine cold.

11. After installing the timing belt, adjust the belt tension by first rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/4 turn or three teeth on the camshaft pulley (this will put tension on the timing belt). Then, re-tighten the adjusting bolt and finally the tensioner pivot bolt. After adjustments are complete, be sure to re-tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to specifications.
12. Start the car and check for smooth operation.

Do not remove the adjusting or pivot bolts, only loosen them. When adjusting, do not use any force other than the adjuster spring. If the belt is too tight, it will result in a shortened belt life.




THERMOSTAT


The thermostat is located in a housing at the end of the water pump inlet pipe. The housing is on the fire wall side of the engine. The thermostat can be removed without removing the housing from the engine.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing outlet.
4. Remove the thermostat housing outlet and remove the thermostat.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new gaskets and O-rings. Install the thermostat with the pin towards the thermostat housing outlet. Tighten the thermostat housing outlet bolts for 1984-91 models to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm), and tighten housing bolts for 1992-95 models to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
6. Fill and bleed the cooling system.



WATER PUMP


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle and drain the cooling system. Properly dispose of the used coolant.
3. Remove the accessory drive belts.
4. Refer to the timing belt removal procedure in this section and remove the timing belt cover and the timing belt.
5. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and the water pump.
6. Use a new O-ring seal and install the water pump on the block. Tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
7. Install the timing belt and the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belts.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Fill and bleed the cooling system, then tighten the bleed bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).



IGNITION TIMING


Honda recommends that the ignition timing be checked every 60,000 miles (96,500 km) and adjusted (if necessary).

On all Civic series engines the timing marks are located on the crankshaft pulley, with a pointer on the timing belt cover. All are visible while looking at the driver's side of the engine compartment. The timing is checked with the engine warmed to operating temperature-176°F (80°C)-idling in Neutral (manual transaxle) or Drive (automatic transaxle), and with all vacuum hoses connected


1992-95 MODELS

1. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
2. Pull out the service check connector located behind the right kick panel.
3. Connect a jumper wire between the BRN and GRN/WHT terminals of the connector.

Do not connect jumper wire to three pin Data Link connector on 1993 and later cars.

4. Connect a timing light and check timing using the red timing mark.
5. Timing should be:

All engine speed settings may vary 50 rpm above or below the specification.

* D15Z1 engine: M/T-16° BTDC (RED) 600 rpm (USA) or 700 rpm (Canada)
* D15B8 engine: M/T-12° BTDC (RED) 670 rpm (USA) or 750 rpm (Canada)
* D15B7/D16Z6 engine: M/T-16° BTDC (RED) at 670 rpm (USA) or 750 rpm (Canada)
* D15B7/D16Z6 engine: A/T-16° BTDC (RED) at 700 rpm (USA) or 750 rpm (Canada)

6. Adjust timing as needed, by turning the distributor housing counterclockwise to retard the timing, clockwise to retard the timing.
7. Turn engine off and remove jumper wire.



VALVE LASH (TIMING)


Honda recommends that the valve clearance be checked at 15,000 mile (24,000 km) intervals.

Be advised that the Civic series engines covered by this information do vary in the location of the intake valve(s), exhaust valve(s) and auxiliary (intake) valves (auxiliary for 12-valve models). If there is any uncertainty as to which valve is which, it is always true that exhaust valves align with the exhaust manifold tubes and the intake valves with intake manifold tubes.

Valve lash must always be adjusted with the engine cold. The head temperature must be below 100°F (38°C). Generally, this means allowing the engine to cool for at least three hours after driving. Overnight cold is best. If the valve adjustment is being done as part of a routine maintenance or mileage service regimen, do this work first, before the engine is warmed up to check timing or idle

1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder is on TDC of its compression stroke. The UP mark (if it has one) should be on top and the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley(s) should align with the top of the cylinder head surface. The crankshaft pulley should be at TDC. Also, the rotor in the distributor should point to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

If you are unfamiliar with using feeler gauges, you can practice getting the proper "feel" by running the gauge through a (metal) precision micrometer set to the same clearance as the gauge. By doing this, you will get a better idea how "too tight" and "too loose" tolerances feel.

3. Loosen the locknut. Using a flat feeler gauge, place it between the top of the valve and the adjusting stud. If the clearance is under, turn the stud outward with a screwdriver until the blade can be inserted between the two items, then, tighten the stud very gently just until it touches the gauge. A slight drag on the gauge should be felt by moving the gauge in and out-it must not be pinched between the two parts.
4. Hold the position of the stud with a screwdriver, then, tighten the locknut until just snug-torque intake/exhaust valve locknuts for 1984-87 models to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and torque 1984-87 auxiliary valve locknut to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm). For all 1988-91 models, re-torque intake/exhaust valve locknuts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm); for 1992-95 models, re-torque locknuts on cars with engine type D1587/D15B8 to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm), and torque D16Z6/D15Z1/D16A6 locknuts to 14 ft. lbs (20 Nm).
5. Slide the gauge in and out to make sure the required clearance has been maintained. If not, readjust the valve the procedure for the remaining No. 1 cylinder valves.

As the work progresses, keep double checking that you are using the proper gauge for the type of valve being adjusted. Also use locknut torque specs (in step "d" above) for all four cylinders

6. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 180° (the camshaft turns 90°). Now, the TDC groove on the outer edge of the camshaft pulley, if equipped, should be aligned with the indentation on the timing belt cover. The distributor rotor will point to the No. 3 cylinder plug wire; the No. 3 cylinder should be on TDC of its compression stroke. Perform the same adjustment procedures as described for the No. 1 cylinder.
7. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 180°. Now the TDC grooves, if equipped, will again be visible and the distributor rotor will point to No. 4 cylinder's plug wire. The No. 4 cylinder should be at the TDC of its compression stroke. Perform the same adjustment procedures as you did for the No. 1 cylinder.
8. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 180°, until the mark on the rear of the pulley, if equipped, aligns with the indentation on the belt cover and the distributor rotor points to No. 2 plug wire. The UP mark should also be visible, on the left side of the camshaft pulley. Perform the same adjustment procedures as you did for the No. 1 cylinder.
9. Install the valve cover. (Refer to for the procedure.)
10. After the valve adjustment is complete, re-torque the crankshaft pulley nut which may have backed out during the procedure. For 1984-87 models re-torque to 83 ft. lbs. (115 Nm); for 1988-91 models re-torque to 119 ft. lbs. (165 Nm); for 1992-95 models (except DOHC engine) re-torque to 134 ft. lbs. (185 Nm); for DOHC engine on the del Sol VTEC, re-torque to 130 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).

[Tech5]

veryy easy!! i can do it sleeping

[AnthonyF]

so....is that a no? lolz

-Ant.

[Killer]

veryy easy!! i can do it sleeping

so... you wanna come take a nap in my garage saturday???

[Tech5]

I would If I could make money an you wasnt so far away from me...I am near the Atlanta Motor speedway

[Killer]

i know it's a d16 engine.. but what are the rest of letters for a 95ex... (engine code.. whatever the f they are...)


^^ that's one thing i've never paid attn too.. or understood...

i know d16 stands for a 1.6 liter... i just don't get the rest...

[Tech5]

D16z6

[Killer]

I would If I could make money an you wasnt so far away from me...I am near the Atlanta Motor speedway

sometimes making friendships/drinkin beer/and eating food are worth more than making money....

(that work??? lol!)


obviously if i wanted to pay someone to get it done.. i'd take it to a shop... lol


it's cool man.. i understand..... but what if i let you ride my buell???? lol!!! man, i'm a trickster...

[Killer]

D16A6

all the diagrams i pulled say d16z6... wtf is the difference??

[AnthonyF]

d16y6 has vtec. or is it y7.....fuk

-Ant.

[Tech5]

Agree...But when I am paying 200 week for my SnapOnTools...its kinda hard to let a day go by without making any money you know...But if you was close by I would help though for free..I just cant go out of my way when gas here is 4.09 gallon unleaded cheap shltt

sometimes making friendships/drinkin beer/and eating food are worth more than making money....

(that work??? lol!)


obviously if i wanted to pay someone to get it done.. i'd take it to a shop... lol


it's cool man.. i understand..... but what if i let you ride my buell???? lol!!! man, i'm a trickster...

[Motivation]

hey Joshua, finally seen your brother's car in Williamson, now I see him all the time, he lives about a half a mile from my house.

[Tech5]

Yeah he is a DouchBag lol.... Have yall two met yet?

hey Joshua, finally seen your brother's car in Williamson, now I see him all the time, he lives about a half a mile from my house.

[Tech5]

I just put a stage 3 clutch in that car, an headers on it ..2004 Tiburon V6 big pain in my A$$

hey Joshua, finally seen your brother's car in Williamson, now I see him all the time, he lives about a half a mile from my house.

[Killer]

d16y6 has vtec. or is it y7.....fuk

-Ant.

mines got vtecs yo!!!

i'm just gonna go look.. lol it should say on it!


thanks again for all the help guys...


joshua.. it's cool man i understand... i was just... joshing with you

[Motivation]

lol, na I haven't met him. The day you asked if I ever seen him cause of Williamson being so small I seen him at AMS, It don't sound too bad. Wasn't sure what it all had done to it. lol at calling your brother a duetsche bag (sp?)

[Tech5]

If your motor is stock an is a 95 ex its a D16z6

mines got vtecs yo!!!

i'm just gonna go look.. lol it should say on it!


thanks again for all the help guys...


joshua.. it's cool man i understand... i was just... joshing with you

[jtaylor48]

In a 95 ex it should be a d16z6 if its vtec. And i do believe the next version of a vtec d16 was the y8. The y7 was non vtec

[Tech5]

^^^Correct

[Tech5]

Oh an don't forget about the ALLMIGHTY ZC

[stillaneon]

I just put a stage 3 clutch in that car, an headers on it ..2004 Tiburon V6 big pain in my A$$

Jon? Brother

[Tech5]

He is

Jon? Brother