yeah, this is now my primary vehicle.. only other thing i have is a bike... which is a no go until i fix the turn signals.. even then i don't have a lic.. and i take my dog to work with me.. he can't really sit in my lap on a bike!! lol

check out this write up i got off autozone... i just copied and pasted the info that i needed... (or i think this is all i needed.... got all kinds of diagrams too.. i'll post the link to their dyi section..) http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm (specific to the civic... but you can pull up most vehicles on that site... this has to be something new because i couldn't find anything last year when i was doing this!!!)

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TIMING BELT COVER AND SEAL

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the left front wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the left front wheel well splash shield.
5. If equipped, remove the power steering belt and pump.
6. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the adjust pulley with bracket and the belt.
7. Remove the power steering bracket, loosen the alternator adjust-bolt and through-bolt and remove the alternator belt.
8. Use a suitable device to support the engine. Remove the engine side support bolts and nut and then remove the side mount rubber.
9. Remove the valve cover, the crankshaft pulley bolt and the crankshaft pulley.
10. Remove the timing belt upper and lower cover.
11. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Apply engine oil to the crankshaft pulley. On 1984-88 models, tighten the pulley bolt to 83 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). On 1988-91 models, tighten the pulley bolt to 119 ft. lbs. (165 Nm). On 1992-95 models, tighten the pulley bolt to 134 ft. lbs. (134 Nm).



OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the timing belt cover and the timing belt.
3. Remove the crankshaft timing sprocket.
4. Using a suitable seal removal tool, remove the seal from the front of the engine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Place a thin coat of oil on the seal lip prior to installation. Use a suitable seal driver to install the seal. Be sure to install the seal with the open (spring) side facing the inside of the engine




TIMING BELT AND TENSIONER

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Slightly raise and support the driver's side of the vehicle, remove the driver's side wheel. Remove the driver's side wheel well splash shield.
2. Remove the air conditioning compressor adjust pulley with bracket and the belt (if equipped with air conditioning).
3. Remove the side engine mount bracket. Loosen the alternator adjust bolt and through-bolt then remove the belt.
4. Remove the engine support bolts and nuts, then remove the side mount rubber.
5. Unfasten the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
6. Remove the timing belt upper cover and lower cover.
7. Mark the rotation of the timing belt (for easy installation). Loosen the adjusting bolt, then remove the timing belt.

Inspect the timing belt. Replace it if it has been in service longer than 90,000 miles, if it is oil soaked (find and correct the source of the oil leak), or if it is worn on the leading edges of the belt teeth.
To install:

8. Double check the position of the engine. The timing pointer must be aligned with the mark on the flywheel; the cam pulley must be set so the small dot or the word UP is vertical and the marks on the edges of the pulley are aligned with the surface of the head.
9. Install the belt on the pulleys.
10. Be sure to adjust the timing belt as follows:

The tensioner is spring-loaded to apply proper tension to the timing belt automatically after making the following adjustment. Be sure to always adjust the timing belt tension with the engine cold.

11. After installing the timing belt, adjust the belt tension by first rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/4 turn or three teeth on the camshaft pulley (this will put tension on the timing belt). Then, re-tighten the adjusting bolt and finally the tensioner pivot bolt. After adjustments are complete, be sure to re-tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to specifications.
12. Start the car and check for smooth operation.

Do not remove the adjusting or pivot bolts, only loosen them. When adjusting, do not use any force other than the adjuster spring. If the belt is too tight, it will result in a shortened belt life.




THERMOSTAT


The thermostat is located in a housing at the end of the water pump inlet pipe. The housing is on the fire wall side of the engine. The thermostat can be removed without removing the housing from the engine.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing outlet.
4. Remove the thermostat housing outlet and remove the thermostat.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new gaskets and O-rings. Install the thermostat with the pin towards the thermostat housing outlet. Tighten the thermostat housing outlet bolts for 1984-91 models to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm), and tighten housing bolts for 1992-95 models to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
6. Fill and bleed the cooling system.



WATER PUMP


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle and drain the cooling system. Properly dispose of the used coolant.
3. Remove the accessory drive belts.
4. Refer to the timing belt removal procedure in this section and remove the timing belt cover and the timing belt.
5. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and the water pump.
6. Use a new O-ring seal and install the water pump on the block. Tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
7. Install the timing belt and the timing belt cover. Install the accessory drive belts.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Fill and bleed the cooling system, then tighten the bleed bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (9 Nm).



IGNITION TIMING


Honda recommends that the ignition timing be checked every 60,000 miles (96,500 km) and adjusted (if necessary).

On all Civic series engines the timing marks are located on the crankshaft pulley, with a pointer on the timing belt cover. All are visible while looking at the driver's side of the engine compartment. The timing is checked with the engine warmed to operating temperature-176°F (80°C)-idling in Neutral (manual transaxle) or Drive (automatic transaxle), and with all vacuum hoses connected


1992-95 MODELS

1. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
2. Pull out the service check connector located behind the right kick panel.
3. Connect a jumper wire between the BRN and GRN/WHT terminals of the connector.

Do not connect jumper wire to three pin Data Link connector on 1993 and later cars.

4. Connect a timing light and check timing using the red timing mark.
5. Timing should be:

All engine speed settings may vary 50 rpm above or below the specification.

* D15Z1 engine: M/T-16° BTDC (RED) 600 rpm (USA) or 700 rpm (Canada)
* D15B8 engine: M/T-12° BTDC (RED) 670 rpm (USA) or 750 rpm (Canada)
* D15B7/D16Z6 engine: M/T-16° BTDC (RED) at 670 rpm (USA) or 750 rpm (Canada)
* D15B7/D16Z6 engine: A/T-16° BTDC (RED) at 700 rpm (USA) or 750 rpm (Canada)

6. Adjust timing as needed, by turning the distributor housing counterclockwise to retard the timing, clockwise to retard the timing.
7. Turn engine off and remove jumper wire.



VALVE LASH (TIMING)


Honda recommends that the valve clearance be checked at 15,000 mile (24,000 km) intervals.

Be advised that the Civic series engines covered by this information do vary in the location of the intake valve(s), exhaust valve(s) and auxiliary (intake) valves (auxiliary for 12-valve models). If there is any uncertainty as to which valve is which, it is always true that exhaust valves align with the exhaust manifold tubes and the intake valves with intake manifold tubes.

Valve lash must always be adjusted with the engine cold. The head temperature must be below 100°F (38°C). Generally, this means allowing the engine to cool for at least three hours after driving. Overnight cold is best. If the valve adjustment is being done as part of a routine maintenance or mileage service regimen, do this work first, before the engine is warmed up to check timing or idle

1. Remove the valve cover.
2. Using a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder is on TDC of its compression stroke. The UP mark (if it has one) should be on top and the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley(s) should align with the top of the cylinder head surface. The crankshaft pulley should be at TDC. Also, the rotor in the distributor should point to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

If you are unfamiliar with using feeler gauges, you can practice getting the proper "feel" by running the gauge through a (metal) precision micrometer set to the same clearance as the gauge. By doing this, you will get a better idea how "too tight" and "too loose" tolerances feel.

3. Loosen the locknut. Using a flat feeler gauge, place it between the top of the valve and the adjusting stud. If the clearance is under, turn the stud outward with a screwdriver until the blade can be inserted between the two items, then, tighten the stud very gently just until it touches the gauge. A slight drag on the gauge should be felt by moving the gauge in and out-it must not be pinched between the two parts.
4. Hold the position of the stud with a screwdriver, then, tighten the locknut until just snug-torque intake/exhaust valve locknuts for 1984-87 models to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and torque 1984-87 auxiliary valve locknut to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm). For all 1988-91 models, re-torque intake/exhaust valve locknuts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm); for 1992-95 models, re-torque locknuts on cars with engine type D1587/D15B8 to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm), and torque D16Z6/D15Z1/D16A6 locknuts to 14 ft. lbs (20 Nm).
5. Slide the gauge in and out to make sure the required clearance has been maintained. If not, readjust the valve the procedure for the remaining No. 1 cylinder valves.

As the work progresses, keep double checking that you are using the proper gauge for the type of valve being adjusted. Also use locknut torque specs (in step "d" above) for all four cylinders

6. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 180° (the camshaft turns 90°). Now, the TDC groove on the outer edge of the camshaft pulley, if equipped, should be aligned with the indentation on the timing belt cover. The distributor rotor will point to the No. 3 cylinder plug wire; the No. 3 cylinder should be on TDC of its compression stroke. Perform the same adjustment procedures as described for the No. 1 cylinder.
7. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 180°. Now the TDC grooves, if equipped, will again be visible and the distributor rotor will point to No. 4 cylinder's plug wire. The No. 4 cylinder should be at the TDC of its compression stroke. Perform the same adjustment procedures as you did for the No. 1 cylinder.
8. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 180°, until the mark on the rear of the pulley, if equipped, aligns with the indentation on the belt cover and the distributor rotor points to No. 2 plug wire. The UP mark should also be visible, on the left side of the camshaft pulley. Perform the same adjustment procedures as you did for the No. 1 cylinder.
9. Install the valve cover. (Refer to for the procedure.)
10. After the valve adjustment is complete, re-torque the crankshaft pulley nut which may have backed out during the procedure. For 1984-87 models re-torque to 83 ft. lbs. (115 Nm); for 1988-91 models re-torque to 119 ft. lbs. (165 Nm); for 1992-95 models (except DOHC engine) re-torque to 134 ft. lbs. (185 Nm); for DOHC engine on the del Sol VTEC, re-torque to 130 ft. lbs. (180 Nm).