I know that THIS probably isn't asked very often...

[teh_mugen18]

Not sure how to do chassis stifening. I know it requires welding, and i already have a welder, but i need to know where to put what. As in, what bars/braces go where in the car?

And, i thought an alignment was an alignment? There's "aggressive" alignments?

[Master Shake]

Not sure how to do chassis stifening. I know it requires welding, and i already have a welder, but i need to know where to put what. As in, what bars/braces go where in the car?

And, i thought an alignment was an alignment? There's "aggressive" alignments?

having negative camber will cause your tires to grip a little better. "toe-in" does too. so if you do that, say good-bye to your tires. the road will eat those bad boys up with the quickness.
try getting all sway bars for the front and rear, upper and lower, and roll cage.

and i agree with dteng. get a good seat that will keep you in the seat, cause if you slice through a curve your body leans affecting your abililties which coule cause you to over/under correct you steering. and you might want to get a good safety harness to go with that seat to keep you down too, to reduce the leaning as well.
and IMO, dont' "gut" the car out, having dead weight in the back could hurt you.

[teh_mugen18]

and IMO, dont' "gut" the car out, having dead weight in the back could hurt you.

That statement kinda contradicts itself....

gutting the car = less dead weight, correct?

[BB1_Luda]

gutting the car = less dead weight, correct?

Correct. But you still do not want to make the front to rear weight distribution too uneven.

In corners it is more about balance than less weight.

[teh_mugen18]

Correct. But you still do not want to make the front to rear weight distribution too uneven.

In corners it is more about balance than less weight.

Ohhh, i see.. Because, too much weight in the front vs. rear = MAJOR understeer right?

so, how do you "measure" front/rear balance? other than getting the car weighed....

[ash7]

having negative camber will cause your tires to grip a little better. "toe-in" does too.

i just read that and laughed

You should be less concerned with the actual measurement of camber and more concerned with your tire temperature. You add camber to optimize your traction patch. To do this you will measure your tire temperature at 3 points across the tire: inside/middle/outside. You will want the temperature to be hottest on the inside and lose about 10 degrees as you get to the outside. Inside is hotter by more than 10 degrees then you have to much camber. If the outside is hotter than the inside then not enough camber. At least, that's how I've always done it.

-jonathan