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Thread: ALRIGHT! this is the last tech thread for me!

  1. #1
    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Default ALRIGHT! this is the last tech thread for me!

    ITS A LOT TO READ BUT PLEASE HELP!

    for those who dont know its a b16a in a 94 del sol

    OK. finally did a home CEL check and it is throwing the IACV/ECM code (14) and knock sensor (23).

    so... i got a IACV from JoshuaASE and it didnt make a difference. still throws the code and didnt help anything. now the IACV was used and i suppose it could be bad as well as my old one, but if not- what else could throw that code or what should i do to troubleshoot it?

    for the knock sensor, i have changed the plugs,wires,cap,rotor within the last month

    next questions are...

    1) where is the knock sensor
    2) how can i test it
    3) what should i do before i replace it?
    4) is there anything easier that would throw the knock sensor code that i should check first.

    and now the most mind bottling question (like when your thoughts get all trapped like they're in a bottle):

    when my car gets to 1500 exactly it kinda gets stuck just a little and pulses about 50 rpms- wom wom wom wom wom rather than a purr. and if you give it a little more gas it pulses a little harder and then if you get to 1700 its perfect? wtf. i dont have a vacuum leak and i have a TB gasket. what else could this be?????

    and on a side note if anyone is still reading and knows about sol's...

    i've heard the windows are supposed to roll down a little when you open the door and roll back up when you shut it so it seals good with the targa. mine does not do this so is supposed to do that and how can i make mine do that?

    AND, my interior light is either on or off. if you flip the switch to where it is supposed to come on when you open the door and go off when you shut the door it doesnt ever turn off, its basically just another notch for on. any suggestions?

    crazy honda quirks man... crazy hondas.

    THANK YOU guys for continuing to come into my general tech threads and helping me cause i like to get the answers from you guys who have actually experienced this stuff

  2. #2
    E46 M3 Z0_o6's Avatar
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    the interior light is going to be a door switch, or the light switch itself.

    the funny rpm thing is attributed to the bad IACV. fix the IACV, the rpm problem goes away.

    beyond that i would have to look **** up, and that takes time. BUT if you're lucky i'll get on honda's technician site and get you the troubleshooting flowchart for both codes.
    Who knows?

  3. #3
    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hondabuilder
    the interior light is going to be a door switch, or the light switch itself.

    the funny rpm thing is attributed to the bad IACV. fix the IACV, the rpm problem goes away.

    beyond that i would have to look **** up, and that takes time. BUT if you're lucky i'll get on honda's technician site and get you the troubleshooting flowchart for both codes.
    why does the IACV effect the rpms at such a specific range? so should i just go get a new IACV instead of trying to keep finding a used one.

    they are like $212 at autozone (i can maybe get it for about half off) and i got this one for $40. dealership has them for like $300

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    Certified Gearhead 1flysi's Avatar
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    Did this just start? You haven't messed with the wires have you? The iacv and knock sensor have the same plugs.

    The knock sensor is above the oil filter on the back of the block.

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1flysi
    Did this just start? You haven't messed with the wires have you? The iacv and knock sensor have the same plugs.

    The knock sensor is above the oil filter on the back of the block.
    same plugs???

    could they be mixed up you think?

    and no this didnt just start, but i've read that if you unplug a good IACV then your idle should raise but mine doesnt...

  6. #6
    Accord->Evo EmminoDaGreat's Avatar
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    Check the knock sensor, its on the back of the block, above the oil filter, a single wire connector red w/ blue. see if its broken or anything, if not just replace it. As for the bucking and ****ty driveability it sounds like you still have a bad iacv.

    The EMPIRE

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    Certified Gearhead 1flysi's Avatar
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    The iacv is two wires and the knock is one wire, But they are the same plug.
    I have seen people mix those wires up and the iat also. Have you had this problem since you purchased the car,or since someone worked on it?

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1flysi
    The iacv is two wires and the knock is one wire, But they are the same plug.
    I have seen people mix those wires up and the iat also. Have you had this problem since you purchased the car,or since someone worked on it?
    since i have had it (about 3-4 weeks ago) but the CEL was on when he had it as well.

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    Certified Gearhead 1flysi's Avatar
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    Go look at the plug on the iacv and see if it has two wires or one.

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    If you have a Hondata car you can chip out the KS input altogether so the ECU won't care about it. Otherwise, just get a new or used one.

    Code 23 will keep VTEC from engaging and force limp mode.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


  11. #11
    Certified Gearhead 1flysi's Avatar
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    I've had code 23 before and vtec engaged and it wasn't in limp mode.

    That was on a ls/vtec with a stock p72.

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    ummm... IACV has 2 wires and vtec still works. hits at about 6 grand

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    ^^ Then you had a freak setup. Code 23 is a VTEC killer. My guess is that you wired it yourself and did not use "shielded" wire.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


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    Certified Gearhead 1flysi's Avatar
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    Replace the iacv. Make sure the ks is still plugged in.


    ^^^^^
    It was a ls/vtec setup with a stock p72. There was no wiring for the ks since there wasn't one.

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    ^^ Then you had a freak setup. Code 23 is a VTEC killer. My guess is that you wired it yourself and did not use "shielded" wire.
    nah, just picked it up a few weeks ago but it could have been done a bit shady. i need someone to go over that knows what they're doing, but i hardly ever have time with school and work and im starting to go broke

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    the window operation when you open the door and the dome light are a related problem. how does the car know when the door is open to drop the window slightly? the dome light on/off with the door open? the door switch. figure out which one is bad (or out of adjustment, maybe the metal around it or on the door is bent) and replace it.
    if the switches are good, then you should move back a little bit to the door wiring, the connector that joins the door to the body.

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    Afghan Goober! TheChosenOne's Avatar
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    Dude, I know how you feel. It's the small malfunctions of a motor that will drive you crazy.

    I have a functioning IACV in my garage from a 97 GSR. If you come to the Honda Varsity meet, I'lll let you have it for free.
    Trend settin'

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
    Dude, I know how you feel. It's the small malfunctions of a motor that will drive you crazy.

    I have a functioning IACV in my garage from a 97 GSR. If you come to the Honda Varsity meet, I'lll let you have it for free.
    does it have a wide or narrow bolt pattern?

    mine is wide but if you bring it i'll check it out. i think yours should be the right one but im not positive. i know your intake manifold will accept both types but mine will only take the wide. do you know that it works for sure?

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    It works bro... I had it on my setup, but the motor started knocking, so it's just been sitting there since this summer.
    Trend settin'

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
    It works bro... I had it on my setup, but the motor started knocking, so it's just been sitting there since this summer.
    word... well bring that shiznit... if it fits it'll be my third one haha. but if it fixes my issues its priceless!

    i'll see you then man

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    If that still doesnt work, Bring your car to my shop Justin...If I cant fix it, ill buy your gas for driving out!!!! Best deal in town!!

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaASE
    If that still doesnt work, Bring your car to my shop Justin...If I cant fix it, ill buy your gas for driving out!!!! Best deal in town!!
    indeed it is... we can work something out on sunday. i may leave extra early and find you or something...

    i'll give you a call sat. afternoon and see if we can figure something out.

    the only thing is i am not real familiar with atlanta and i dont have a WHOLE lot of money right now, school just started back up so... books and not as many hours at work

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    It can be anything, to a connector being alittle damaged an the pins not touching, or gasket leaking, or bad wiring or short to ground in the wiring, bad ecu, But I can fix it, just let me know if I can help, thanks Justin, your a nice an great buyer, hope to see you at the Varsity meet!

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    If I fix it, an it doesnt take much , I wont charge you , so let me know man, am here to help, Hope you know that

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    Goon Alumni Mr. Clean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaASE
    It can be anything, to a connector being alittle damaged an the pins not touching, or gasket leaking, or bad wiring or short to ground in the wiring, bad ecu, But I can fix it, just let me know if I can help, thanks Justin, your a nice an great buyer, hope to see you at the Varsity meet!


    oh and briefly how far is your shop from varsity. do i just keep going up 85 or what?

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    call me saturday

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    lol ok

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    I dont wont For anyone thinking am Advertising on IA to get bussiness, So I rather you call me as friends an ill help you ,

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshuaASE
    I dont wont For anyone thinking am Advertising on IA to get bussiness, So I rather you call me as friends an ill help you ,
    completely understandable.

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