Built 16v or 20v 4AGE

[AE86Taylor]

Hey man I think I met you at CCR one day. I have a Silver Top 20V and Megasquirt 2. I'm in the process of swapping it in to my 87 SR5.MY sponsor in Texas Quoted me $550 shipped for a silvertop with harness, ECU, mass airflow meter, igniter, and coil before he sponsored me. You can contact him (Jerry) at http://www.superiortradinginternational.com
Granted that was like a year and a half ago, but I doubt much has changed.


Also, I got my Megasquirt from my other sponsor. http://www.diyautotune.com Just ask for Jerry.

As far as the water line issues, and the dizzy location. There are many alternatives to fix these problems without bashing your firewall. You can run a COP setup using the 24 toothed wheel inside the dizzy with the cap off using decoding software with Megasquirt. You can also run Miata coils or FC RX7 coils using this setup rather than COP. You can also use the Ford EDIS setup by adding a 36-1 wheel to your crank pully (And no, adding the 36-1 wheel to your crank pully does NOT effect you engine harmonics or balance). A little welding can go along way with rerouting waterlines. (Also, running Megasquirt will allow you to run open ITB's)

As far as an exhaust, the stock 16V headers work fine on the 20V. All you have to do is slot the first and last holes in the header flange. I'm going to use the stock 20V header since it is not cast and flows better, by building my own y-pipe to tap into the exhaust.

You can use a GTS flywheel and clutch on the 20V, or if you get a 20V with a stock flywheel, you can use the clutch from a 80's model supercharged MR2.

As far as the engine balance being from a FWD. Not an issue. This engine is tried and true.

And as far as aggressive cams on a 16V. There are quite a few running 304 degree intake and exhaust cams from Toda. The idle kinda blows, but they still due fairly ok on the street. most run 282 degree.

And spending 2K to build you a 16 will net you about the same as buying a silvertop for 600-700 and spending 450 on a fully assembled megasquirt.... just think of what you could do with that extra 900 to 1k you would save...

without my sponsors, total cost for doing my 20V swap (installing it myself) My total cost if I had to pay for everything and without discounts is under 1K. when I'm done I'll have less than 1.5K in it, and I'll have at least 150 to 155 at the wheels on a stock ST. And it will turn 8500 rpm. With cams people are hitting 165-185. Mill the head down or get a smaller head gasket to bump the compression up and you can get closer to 200. A stock 16V makes about 95 at the wheels. even with a rebuild, cams, intake, exhaust, higher compression forged pistons, you might get 150... and you'll spend over 1K for that alone. Not to mention the Sivlertop rods are stronger then the stock 16V ones. (they are good for 18lbs of boost)



Hope all this helps.