Engine Swaps

[blacknightteg]

ok so around summer time if i have enough money i am wanting to go ahead and swap the engine instead of building the one i have in there right now. i have an 94 integra Rs which means its an LS engine in it...anyways, i am wanting to know what is probably the least expensive swap that in the long run i will be able to produce the most power out of it....now, i really dont want to have to replace my exhaust n intake right off the bat so i woudl want something that they would both bolt up to. i just dont want another LS engine unless its already built. please giev me some idea's.

[eraser4g63]

GSR is the Honda golden child in reference to cost, power, and flexibility. The swap is simple have fun.

[Sammich]

gsr man...go gsr. itll drop right in DO NOT i repeat DO NOT put a b16 in there..

[Bishop]

gsr but if you want to go cheap, do a b20.

[kainkauz]

go ls vtec thats really the cheapest way to go faster

[gijoe0720]

In my integra I had ls/vtec, gsr, and b20 with gsr head. My favorite was the b20

[Turbodude06]

B20, LS vtec, or B20 vtec...... Cheaper then B18C's or B16's

[EmminoDaGreat]

how much money are you going to have saved? whats the condition of the motor in there now?

[an0therh22]

i would have to go with ls/vtec

[drmcivicsi]

lol ls/vtec to build it right aint cheap look at the thread that was postedin here for a ls/vtec that was built cheap,

b20= thin walls will crack < if u going to go turbo
Gsr= lil more money but more fun
ls/vtec= more money but more power

[drmcivicsi]

LS/Vtec build gone bad

[IntegraXTR]

ok, let me jump in on this too....I have experience with all builds listed and then sum.
LS/VTEC - great lil motor, fun to build, has TONS of potential and for the fraction of a GSR swap. Cost me around $1100-1300 to do it RIGHT. Seeing how you already have a B18b/a, then basically you're halfway there. Also, look into investing in pr3 pistons or as a matter of fact anything but ls pistons.
GSR B18c/c1 - can be found as cheap as $1200 for the longblock, connects are your friend. Easy to drop in, great potential, and def a huge increase. VTEC wiring is not hard at all, either PIN it in or use a VAFC to get vtec. This route is more reliable and you will def not be disappointed.
B20 - don't waste your time, its the same damn thing as a LS swap, just a larger displacement, won't get too much gains out of this, ppl that have went from a LS to a B20 swap still haven't made any difference, still gonna get wasted by anything vtec, thats right, a b16 will dust you with a good driver.
B20/VTEC - GREAT FUKIN MOTOR, awesome amount of torque, not able to rev high though, weak rods, but in all it will cost the same as a ls/vtec, just gotta put sum extra $$$ to make sure it will last, i.e. rods, pistons, bearings, etc.you get the idea, theres millions of threads on this.
B18C-R or C5 - pricey yes indeed, but can be found as low as $3000-3500 for longblock, connect is a must. WILL ABSO-FUKIN-LUTELY NOT REGRET THIS, this has got to be the most fun, rev happy motor that I've every driven, able to withstand insane amount of ABUSE and still perform perfectly, 8500 redline, able to take it to 9 STOCK.
K-series - I will not get into this, but if you got the $$$, then go for it.

[§treet_§peed]

K20A FTW foo or GSR

[gijoe0720]

ok, let me jump in on this too....I have experience with all builds listed and then sum.
LS/VTEC - great lil motor, fun to build, has TONS of potential and for the fraction of a GSR swap. Cost me around $1100-1300 to do it RIGHT. Seeing how you already have a B18b/a, then basically you're halfway there. Also, look into investing in pr3 pistons or as a matter of fact anything but ls pistons.
GSR B18c/c1 - can be found as cheap as $1200 for the longblock, connects are your friend. Easy to drop in, great potential, and def a huge increase. VTEC wiring is not hard at all, either PIN it in or use a VAFC to get vtec. This route is more reliable and you will def not be disappointed.
B20 - don't waste your time, its the same damn thing as a LS swap, just a larger displacement, won't get too much gains out of this, ppl that have went from a LS to a B20 swap still haven't made any difference, still gonna get wasted by anything vtec, thats right, a b16 will dust you with a good driver.
B20/VTEC - GREAT FUKIN MOTOR, awesome amount of torque, not able to rev high though, weak rods, but in all it will cost the same as a ls/vtec, just gotta put sum extra $$$ to make sure it will last, i.e. rods, pistons, bearings, etc.you get the idea, theres millions of threads on this.B18C-R or C5 - pricey yes indeed, but can be found as low as $3000-3500 for longblock, connect is a must. WILL ABSO-FUKIN-LUTELY NOT REGRET THIS, this has got to be the most fun, rev happy motor that I've every driven, able to withstand insane amount of ABUSE and still perform perfectly, 8500 redline, able to take it to 9 STOCK.
K-series - I will not get into this, but if you got the $$$, then go for it.

I took mine to redline plenty of times and I had my gsr computer.

[blacknightteg]

hmm...this is definetly all good info...im really not sure what i want to do. if i used the motor that i have in there now to go ls/vtec. i dont know if it could handle it, it has almost 180k on it. i had thought about a b20 at one point or a gsr.. i had alwasy heard that it was better go o with gsr then type R cuz of it being mod friendly, i still have a little while to go tho, so im going to keep thinking and looking into it.

[Vteckidd]

LS/VTEC= not unless you are BUILDING THE BOTTOM END. a 180,000 miles LS shortblock is not going to want a VTEC head put on it an revved to 8200rpms. You can try it an see how long it lasts, but my bet is under 6months before the 180k oil pump fails or the rods stretch.

GSR=best bang for the buck, 1.8l , VTEC, great candiate for turbo or all motor . responds well to bolt ons.

B20=NOT A BAD MOTOR AT ALL. its not as FAST as a GSR, its SLIGHTLY faster than a LS, but you are getting a LOW MILEAGE engine for as cheap as $649 (hmotorsonline.com). I would buy a B20 longblock, replace the oil pump, timing belt, water pump, then convert it to vtec, keep the REVS DOWN (under 8000) and itll last. the motor wont need to be revved because its a 2.0L

B18C5=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ great motor, but for the price you can buy a GSR and mod it (buy a gsr an get ITR cams and a DC JDM 4-1 header and still have money left over)

[Turbodude06]

LS/VTEC= not unless you are BUILDING THE BOTTOM END. a 180,000 miles LS shortblock is not going to want a VTEC head put on it an revved to 8200rpms. You can try it an see how long it lasts, but my bet is under 6months before the 180k oil pump fails or the rods stretch.

GSR=best bang for the buck, 1.8l , VTEC, great candiate for turbo or all motor . responds well to bolt ons.

B20=NOT A BAD MOTOR AT ALL. its not as FAST as a GSR, its SLIGHTLY faster than a LS, but you are getting a LOW MILEAGE engine for as cheap as $649 (hmotorsonline.com). I would buy a B20 longblock, replace the oil pump, timing belt, water pump, then convert it to vtec, keep the REVS DOWN (under 8000) and itll last. the motor wont need to be revved because its a 2.0L

B18C5=$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ great motor, but for the price you can buy a GSR and mod it (buy a gsr an get ITR cams and a DC JDM 4-1 header and still have money left over)

I didn't think a b20 would go 8K thought they werent good after like 6,800 rpms

[Vteckidd]

b20=LS same stroke different bore

i dont mind doing 8000 and under on a LOW MILEAGE motor with a new oil pump

with 180K ls block like the op has, i would advise against it.

[blacknightteg]

thank you for your input mike.

[§treet_§peed]

i wanna do a K20A ina CRX but it's gonna cost alot of money lol

[myyellowspec]

I'll sell you my k20z3 for like 25000. oh yeah it also comes with an 06 SI attached to it lol

[AnTi-PooN]

b20= cheap and strong

[efman]

how about h22 ? just an idea nobody else has touched on

[an0therh22]

h22 in a teg is same shit as the b18c. heavier motor and only a couple more pounds of torque. theres a reason y noone does it.