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Thread: Polished up hazy headlights using Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish

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    (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ smoknlegend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevykev View Post
    Word, The principle is to sand past the top layer of the BS clearcoat manufacturers apply.
    Good Stuff. Bunch of ways to get good results.
    Ahh the factory UV coating. Ya, if there are chips in that, you want to remove that whole coat through wetsanding.

    Now i dont know the validity to this, but ive had a few people tell me to avoid metal polish on plastic since some of the chemicals in the metal polish will actually increase the likeliness of them to yellow.

    When I do headlights, i normally use 3000 grit wet sanding, followed by hitting it with meguiars 105 polish on a 4" lake country pad, topped off with a plastic polish by hand, then a wax.


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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoknlegend View Post
    Ahh the factory UV coating. Ya, if there are chips in that, you want to remove that whole coat through wetsanding.

    Now i dont know the validity to this, but ive had a few people tell me to avoid metal polish on plastic since some of the chemicals in the metal polish will actually increase the likeliness of them to yellow.

    When I do headlights, i normally use 3000 grit wet sanding, followed by hitting it with meguiars 105 polish on a 4" lake country pad, topped off with a plastic polish by hand, then a wax.
    It will always yellow no matter what is used if it's not properly polished and waxed AND maintained.

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    (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ smoknlegend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedminded View Post
    It will always yellow no matter what is used if it's not properly polished and waxed AND maintained.
    of course it will, but what i was told was that because there was kerosene in mothers mag and aluminum polish, it would actually deteriorate the plastic quicker, causing it to yellow sooner.


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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoknlegend View Post
    of course it will, but what i was told was that because there was kerosene in mothers mag and aluminum polish, it would actually deteriorate the plastic quicker, causing it to yellow sooner.
    If you properly polish and wax it afterward then there is no longer any residue of petroleum based products. That's why it works so good, it basically eats off a layer...like a liquid sandpaper. I've using metal polish on plastic lenses for at least 7 years.

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    F.A.N.A.T.I.C. primespark22's Avatar
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    ^^^to theone it depends on your lights and how bad they are,mine where pretty bad i had to use 600,800,1000,i went the extra mile and used 1500,2000 then polished
    92 DA9 with a b20 on 8lbs daily
    DALLAS 8-4 1st in the nfc east

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    AKA bodydropped THEONE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by primespark22 View Post
    ^^^to theone it depends on your lights and how bad they are,mine where pretty bad i had to use 600,800,1000,i went the extra mile and used 1500,2000 then polished
    so trat the lights like paint then? should i use any soap in the water?
    yes i am....

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    www.jasontbarker.com speedminded's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by THEONE View Post
    so trat the lights like paint then? should i use any soap in the water?
    Yes, all plastic and glass should be treated like the paint. You can wet sand, polish, and wax all of it.

    I wouldn't sand glass though, there's no need in it since there is nothing on glass that can't be polished off. I always polish and wax windows though.

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    AKA bodydropped THEONE's Avatar
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    what grit paper do you all reccomend and is it ok to polish by hand since i dont have drill,i do have a variable speed buffer will that work?
    yes i am....

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    Something Else Kevykev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smoknlegend View Post

    When I do headlights, i normally use 3000 grit wet sanding, followed by hitting it with meguiars 105 polish on a 4" lake country pad, topped off with a plastic polish by hand, then a wax.
    WOW, I can't believe you go that fine.

    I stop at1500, As long as you have the right products all scratches will be removed.

    For Japanese Vehicles 800 or 1000 is actually a good starting point. German Vehicles you must start @ 600 but as low as 500. Starting at 800 or 1000=longer sanding time.

    I can go on and on and on I've got it down to a science and the yellowing never comes back EVER (only on cheap aftermarket applications) I doubt they use polycarbonate lenses.

    Speedminded - Glass is a LOT more labor you can actually sand glass to reduce/minimize pitting which will lead to greater clarity.

    Leisa and S. 4 Life NM?

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    F.A.N.A.T.I.C. primespark22's Avatar
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    ^^^yeah thats how i look at it,the finer grit the more you will sand,and thats good info you posted
    92 DA9 with a b20 on 8lbs daily
    DALLAS 8-4 1st in the nfc east

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