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  1. #1
    Just another Civic Slomaro Z28's Avatar
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    Also the cap isn't supposed to be a band-aid.....hints why I upgraded my alt and battery....it's just there to help the amp have the power it needs consistently
    2007 Civic FA1 and 2005 Yukon XL Denali

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    2 low 4 common sense PTCDC5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slomaro Z28 View Post
    Also the cap isn't supposed to be a band-aid.....hints why I upgraded my alt and battery....it's just there to help the amp have the power it needs consistently
    Do you not realize the contradiction? Let me first start off by saying that I'm both a professional mobile electronics installer and an electrical engineering student, so I know just a little about this

    I'm going to express a few concerns and I'll even use some basic math to back it up.

    Primarily, despite what you may think your alternator is still insufficient. Although you have upgraded to a 175A alternator, you will still not be producing enough current to support the original demands of the vehicle, the new load you have presented with the sound system, and have the proper headroom to allow the alternator to live a normal life. Let's say you end up with "only" a 2000 RMS setup like you mentioned earlier. At 12.4V-14.4V (assuming the alternator you selected is going to make it to 14.4V with that much load is an optimistic assumption) you're going to be drawing between 140-160A just to run that amplifier. Even if that was the sole load, at 140A (the best case scenario in this example) you would already be at the maximum load for healthy alternator life which is 80% of current capability. Now once you add on the original requirements of the vehicle you're well over 100% current capability which means you've maxed out the alternator and are now dipping into the battery. So not only are you killing off your new alternator, but also your new battery, which leads to my next issue.

    You have selected a deep cycle battery, which is fine for low voltage situations such as listening to music with the car off. However, a deep cycle battery requires more time to recharge; this is the trade off for the deep cycle capability. With you already dipping into battery voltage because of the insufficient alternator, you're making it even MORE difficult for the battery to recharge. The battery's true function is merely to provide power to crank the car; once the vehicle is running the alternator has 100% responsibility to provide power to the car and recharge the battery for the next crank. The deep cycle battery is offering you no real benefit in this scenario, you're making it harder on your electrical system. For a normal system, a deep cycle would allow some extended listening without much issue and would be able to recharge fine assuming a sufficiently long commute. However, the demands of your system greatly exceed any benefit a deep cycle would offer in such a case. For the electrical load your system presents you will be listening to music with the car running every time. Therefore, we get back to the issue that your alternator is insufficient and your capacitor is a bandaid.

    Please take from this information what you will, I'm merely trying to offer some professional advice to help you in the long run.

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