Swiss audio or Diamond
Well im working on laying out plans for my system in my integra. I had origianlly planned on doing all diamond but i have heard from a few people that Swiss Audio produces the same quality as diamond? I was wondering what everyones opinion is? Im going to be getting 2 5 1/4 component sets, 1 6 1/2 comp. set, 2 amps, a capacitor and 2 12 subs.
i had diamond subs and they hit hard as fuck i would go with them
swiss compared to diamond.... wow thats compairing daewoo to mercedes..... diamond for sure out of those two
kk...thats what i thought... the people who told me otherwise were shop owners...so i assume they were trying to get me to shop there.
Youve obv never heard Swiss Cheese audio.
Diamond is top tier audio, Swiss is barely over AudioBahn....
If a shop told you that Swiss is comp to Diamond, NEVER return there, they lie.
Greg
86 Buick GN
07 Passat Wagon
01 Frontier
lol diamond all the way swiss is sub par...sub sub par
--TEAM FUCT OG--
07' moomba outback v
02' Xterra
01' IS 300
yea im gonna stick with my original set up:
2 diamond m6 12" subs
2 m6 5 1/4 comp set's
1 m6 6 1/2 comp set
1 d5 400.4 amp
2 d5 600.1 amp's (1 for each sub)
1 stinger 2.0 farad capacitor.
think that will sound ok?
Sound ok? Not too sure...they equipment is there to have an awesome sounding system...of course, poor installation can definatley effect that....
A poorly build sub enclosure, and you might not be happy. Dont try and wire everything up with 8 awg power cables, and 18 gauge speaker wire...
You definatley have teh foundation....just finish the job with a good install, and you will be VERy pleased.
John
2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.
all i have to say about this is i turned many heads with my swiss system including the owner of a shop that sold diamond and he said "damn that pounds are you running diamond" so your installation has alot to do with it i guess!!!
StIlL dRaGgIn BuT nOw SpInNiNg ToO!!
what gauge power cables and speaker wire would u suggest?
Depends what line? Diamond Hex series is unbeatable in my book. I used to run a nationally ranked db setup (162 no wall 1 amp 2 subs). So you may take my word as you please. But the imaging in the hex series is a+. Fidelity is long lasting and as mentioned before quality is unbeatable. However, be advised that I don't recommend cranking on this setup. Silk tweets and compound cones don't hold well to humidity and stress. So enjoy it with moderation.
Hope this helps. You're welcome to catch my vehicross at any meet, I'm running hex 6.5 components, coaxs and a pair of Xtant 10"s
Miguel
Originally Posted by Crowml
Hex componets are also available with aluminum tweets; depending on the install, might be better suited. Depends on the music, location, and personal preferences. Silk typically has a smoother response, a bit more mellow of a sound, and also typically with a bit of natural roll-off in the upper frequencies.
Aluminum typically has a bit more crisp sound (compared to silk). The sound might be more "forward" compared to the sound of a silk tweet. Frequency does not tend to roll off quite like the silks.
If your tweets are up high (sail panels or a-pillars) I might suggest starting with the silks. If your tweets are lower (lower door or kickpanel), I might suggest starting with the aluminum. Of course, this is just a starting point...there are very few definates in auto sound.
I have not experienced the breakup of the hex cones that you are talking aobut. Mine have been in my car for nearly 4 years now...but dont get played every day. When they do get used though, they typically get handed some difficult material (jazz, orchestra, classical, and rock) for critical listening.
Just my experiences...
John
2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.
Diamond
i have 2 fiberglass sub enclosures that fit flush in the corners of my hatch. I plan on "roadkill"ing or dynomating the hatch,hatch lid,floor,roof and doors of my car. Would 24 ga. speaker wire be to much?
24 gauge wire is smaller than the wires running to your facory computer.
The larger the number, the smaller the wire.
You will probably want at least 16 awg speaker cable. Maybe even 14 or 12 awg. I would suggest 12 for the subs for sure.
John
2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.
Well i plan on changing to the 99 GSR leather door panels with the tweeter mounts for the door speakers. The kick panels have tweeter mounts already so thats not a problem... What i was wondering is would it be better to run components in the rear quarters or coaxials? I know the subs are going to pound so i dont want to wash out the music with bass, i want something that will flow well together, not just straight bass. After posting that about the guage of the wires i realized that the 24 was worse than the 20 =P. Do you think relocating the battery to the trunk would be a good idea or maybe getting another battery and alternator and running it in the back? Ive been debating about that. Oh and what amps would be better? 2x 600.1 for subs and 400.4 for the speakers or maybe bump it up to the d7's and run the 7401 and the 7104?
Personally, I am not a huge fan of rear fill speakers. A properly designed system will not necessarily benefit from them...unless you have a 5.1 processor or something like that. For straight-up SOUND QUALITY, you might find that you do not need them.
At a concert, all the mucicians are infront of you....none behind you...why put speakers there?
D5 or D7 amps? I think you would be perfectly happy with the D5 line....great stuff. If you are the SQ snob that I am, then D7 (or D9) all the way. I think the savings on the D5 line might be better spent on other upgrades. Better cables, Dynamat, nicer install, and the like.
I am not sure if you will need a second battery...just make sure the one you have is in good condition. If its over 3-4 years old, you might wanna think about a new one. A second battery will give you longer engine-off play time, and make your alternator work harder. If you go with D7 or D9 amps, then YES, you will probably need a larger alternator.
You might want to think about 1 of 2 set-ups.
1) a set of 6.5 components for the doors. Place the tweet in the factory door spot, and a second set of components (5.25 or 4") in the kick panels. Use the 4-channel amp to power them.
2) a 3-way set up up front. 6.5 in the door for midbass, and 5.25 or 4" components in the kick panel for mid-range and highs. Again, the 4-channel amp. Channels 1-2 for the mid/highs, and channels 3-4 for the midbass.
#2 is essentially what I have in my car. 5.25 hex components in the kick panels off a D7152, and a set of 8" midbass off another D7152
John
2007, 2008, & 2009 IASCA National SQi Champion Pro Ultimate
Total of 5 National Sound Quality Championships.
see what is my plan...if i run the d5 line amps im gonna use the 400.4 to run the front components and have the HU (clarion dzxblahblah music catcher) run the rear quarter speakers. I could go all out and have 6.5's and 5.25's in the doors along with the kickpanels but that seems drastic. if i go with the d7 series they make the 6 or 8 channel amp i could use to push all the cabin speakers so that would work to. I for sure plan on upgrading to the optima yellow or red series battery. The reason i asked about the rear battery was to eliminate the frequency/distortion problem ive heard of have when running long power cables. What size/brand cap would work best? i was thinking stinger 1.5 or 2.0 farad?
here is my opinion i am an integra owner so i am dealing with the same problems as you
this is what my system results in now
i have ran all 0 gague wire hot and ground to my 17 farad cap
from the cap i ran 4 gague into my amps
i ran 10 gague speaker wire to all 5 10"subs
i ran 14 gague remote wire alot of people say you can run 18 or 20 for this but i had the wire so i ran it
i am running 5 cadeance beast 10's
a 5 channel amp
and 2 2 channel amps
i am running a 6" component set and 4" sets in each door with a 5 1/4 center channel
i am running custom 6x9 enclosures in the rear triangle windows my system when it was in before i decided to fiberglass everything sounded amazing and hit a 158
integras can handle a large amount of bass before you have to worry about the back window cracking or shattering, just rember that before you build a crazy loud system
i blew my first one out and had to get a new rear window
damn sounds hellacious. I want to go with something killer but at the same time clean and simplistic. Thats why i opted for the 2 12''s in the fiberglass enclosures.im hoping for like 120's-130's with my system but if you were running 5 10''s and got (amazing number might i add) 158 then i think thats out of the question for me.. but ill be happy once i finally get the shit started and done with.
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