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Thread: Built Head, blown block?

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Default Built Head, blown block?

    I've heard that if you have a fully built head it will cause you to throw a rod or maybe other serious damages to the block. If anyone has any insight on this let me know. I'm considering buying the Crower stage 2 camshafts and the spring and retainer kit for my H23 with new stainless steel valves. Info will be greatly appreciated.
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    MainstreamPeformance SL33P3R's Avatar
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    Ive NEVER heard that before, i had a completely built CROWER head on my LS, nothing happened. Who ever told you that is an idiot i think, but i could be wrong
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    DC5-R
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL33P3R
    Ive NEVER heard that before, i had a completely built CROWER head on my LS, nothing happened. Who ever told you that is an idiot i think, but i could be wrong

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Cool I thought he ,ight have been blowin steam but i didn't know if it had a chance of being true.Will the crower head setup interfer with the type-s pistons im putting in. Cause i still dont understand the whole "clearance" thing.
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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    The problem you can encounter with a "built" head and a stock bottom end is when you get into high RPM's. Most aftermarket camshafts need to rev higher than the stock rev limit to really take advantage of the increased lift/duration. Depending on how aggressive of a cam you run or how much higher you are turning the motor above the stock rev limit you can run into problems. A "built" head on a stock block alone will not cause any damage at all as long as you do not have any piston to valve contact due to the increased lift and duration of the aftermarket cams. That's why on both of my motors I added ARP rod bolts. Rod bolts are generally the weak link on the Honda motors. I do not have any personal experience or input to give on the H23 specifically as I'm not familiar with it. Good luck I'm sure there are people out there who have run type s pistons in the H23 with aftermarket cams if you look you should be able to find something.

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info.
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    How do i go about measuring all this before i buy these parts and end up having to sale something i don't need.
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    With type-s pistons you are gonna be around 12:1 compression ratio. So id say a good tune along with your willingness to run 93octane all the time will be the deciding factor on how long the motor lives. Assuming there are no clearance problems of course.
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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    claying the motor is the best way to tell if you will have valve clearance issues. It's a bit time consuming and since I am sure what you are doing has been done before I am sure you would be able to find some info on whether there are any clearance issues. I would imagine that with a small cam such as the Stage 2 crower you wouldn't have any problem but I do not know what type of dome is on the type S piston. Also has your head been decked or milled down?

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    who builds an H23 LOL.

    those motors dont like to rev, so i hope you keep the RPM down
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    I do. Now back to the subject. How do i measure the piston height and the length of my valves, in relation to my cam duration.
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    with tools that you prob dont own.

    Dome height, comp height, valve face, duration , valve to valve, valve to piston clearance. those are all numbers you should have.
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
    with tools that you prob dont own.

    Dome height, comp height, valve face, duration , valve to valve, valve to piston clearance. those are all numbers you should have.
    See that was all i needed not all that other shit. Preciate it.
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    LOL ^ I saw you on the southside one day with that dark blue Prelude more like midnight blue or something like that right
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Yeah. Where were you?
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    Im the kid that pops up sometimes LOL I got the sleeping white crx with the loud ass muffler LOL you know my boy Drew with the Black spray painted crx sometimes I come up there with him in the white one I met you before but that was a while back
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toonz
    Im the kid that pops up sometimes LOL I got the sleeping white crx with the loud ass muffler LOL you know my boy Drew with the Black spray painted crx sometimes I come up there with him in the white one I met you before but that was a while back
    Yeah i gotcha. Have you been out lately?
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    Quote Originally Posted by dakilla4ever
    Yeah i gotcha. Have you been out lately?
    Nah I'll be out soon tho it was cool meetin you I'll be out there sometime I don't know it just sometimes it's dead so I just chill wit tha wifey
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toonz
    Nah I'll be out soon tho it was cool meetin you I'll be out there sometime I don't know it just sometimes it's dead so I just chill wit tha wifey
    Very understandable. Well if you decide to roll out there just catch up with me.
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    JDM swaped shortbus Big J's Avatar
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    If you were keeping the stock pistons, you probably wouldn't be increasing lift and duration enough to run into interference issues, but with the new pistons it's a lot more critical to know your clearences. Even more so if you throw adjustable cam gears into the mix. If you're putting in pistons why not go the rest of the way? You need to know what head gasket your going to run so you can use it's thickness to calculate your clearences, or make very small adjustments in static comp ratio. So........using clay is probably your best bet, it's ghetto but people have been using it for years.

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big J
    If you were keeping the stock pistons, you probably wouldn't be increasing lift and duration enough to run into interference issues, but with the new pistons it's a lot more critical to know your clearences. Even more so if you throw adjustable cam gears into the mix. If you're putting in pistons why not go the rest of the way? You need to know what head gasket your going to run so you can use it's thickness to calculate your clearences, or make very small adjustments in static comp ratio. So........using clay is probably your best bet, it's ghetto but people have been using it for years.
    I'm going with TYPE-S pistons and crower stage 2 cams. And numerous other things but that the main reason for this thread. I was just trying to figure out how to measure all of that without buying all the parts then ending up having to sell my cams because they have too long a duration.
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    Cool
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toonz
    Cool
    Yeah thats what i think as well but everybody i talk to can't tell me how, or what i need to do to calculate this before i buy this stuff.
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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    Use your math skillz yo!

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99SI
    Use your math skillz yo!
    O....K...... AND DO WHAT WITH THEM. What numbers am I using. Thats what im trying to find out.
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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    add them, subtract them, multiply them, divide them, as for the numbers I would start with real numbers, then move on to prime numbers, then get into fractions. lol, I'm just fucking with you. Can't help it. I can't tell you the actual process that you need to do. I only know what you need to do. I would seriously doubt you will have problems with any piston to valve contact, however, it is always best to know for sure. I would try to contact a shop to see what their input would be. You may have to pay a little bit to get it figured out but in the long run it would be worth it IMO. Good luck.

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99SI
    add them, subtract them, multiply them, divide them, as for the numbers I would start with real numbers, then move on to prime numbers, then get into fractions. lol, I'm just fucking with you. Can't help it. I can't tell you the actual process that you need to do. I only know what you need to do. I would seriously doubt you will have problems with any piston to valve contact, however, it is always best to know for sure. I would try to contact a shop to see what their input would be. You may have to pay a little bit to get it figured out but in the long run it would be worth it IMO. Good luck.

    Preciate that. I didn't event think about that. Cool.
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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    So what do I need to have my block capable of spinning at higher revs?
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    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    higher is relative. You really should not spin too high with the H23 regardless of what you do b/c of the rod/stroke ratio. A set of ARP rod bolts and a full balancing of the bottom end will give you a little more insurance to go up a little higher. Again, my limited knowledge of H series specifics keeps me from putting out a specific RPM you could go to.

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    The Dark Lude dakilla4ever's Avatar
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    Cool preciate the info. What all do I need to balance, besides the crank?
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