ITR pistions or PR3 pistions?

[brwloco]

i need to know what type of pistions to put in my GSR. I don't wanna go to crazy but maybe sumthing like 11.5:1 thats what im looking for. So my question is which should i use ITR pistions or PR3 pistions ? and what power will i be lookin at, i got full exhaust, Skunk2 intake manny and TB, intake and cromepro what yall think??and which is better for the buck ?

[SLow_POke]

extremely good info .


http://forums.importatlanta.com/showthread.php?t=33958


-Ernie

[brwloco]

ok but which is better for the buck?

[99SI]

Do PR3 pistons, they will give you a bump in compression, also while you are in there go ahead and put in a set of flat face valves, such as omnipower, ferrea, supertech etc. The flat face valves will generally give you a .3 bump in compression alone.

[brwloco]

thanks

[Vteckidd]

PR3 has more compression that ITR

[o_bomb]

agreed^^

[brwloco]

have any idea how much?

[o_bomb]

LORD HAVE MERCY!! pr3 will give u 11:6 ITR will give u 11:0!!!

[brwloco]

that i no, how much $$$ money tho will parts and labor
and would i have to do anything like bore it out or can i just put them
with no problem?

[99SI]

If the cylinder walls still have a GOOD cross hatch then you can get away with dropping them in without machine work. Just make sure that you use new rings. You can get PR3 or ITR pistons from an aftermarket company for pretty much the same price, a piston set with wrist pins for around 150-190 depending on who you go with. Some even come with rings but I would get OEM Honda rings, they really can't be beat for all motor. It would probably be a good idea if the motor you have has some miles on it to go ahead and do a slight bore and put in an oversize piston. Something like a .10-.20 over would be plenty and leave you with enough cylinder wall material that if you have problems in the future you can still bore the block more without having to sleeve. 82 mm is the absolute max for oem sleeves to be bored to on a Bseries, other than one of the B20's. But at 82mm you are pushing the limits. Personally 81.5mm is about the most I would go out to, that way you do still have the option to bore to 82 if you have problems.

[99SI]

It's not that much extra to go ahead and have a slight bore done and that way they can hone and cross hatch the cylinders while they're in and you won't have to worry about any cylinder being out, they'll all be within very tight tolerances.

[brwloco]

so a 81.25 or sumthin like that b good?
u know how much mainstream would do it for?

[99SI]

well they would send it out to a machine shop they use to do the boring and honing. Then they would probably assemble it at the shop. You would just need to send Mr. 2JZKIDD a PM or try calling the shop for a price of doing the assembly. Also it's going to depend on if you just want them to do the short block for you or if you're going to bring the car and them pull it, etc. There are several questions he'll need to ask you about the specifics of what you want to do. If I were you, and I was in your positon before, if you decide to go ahead and put in new pistons and have the thing bored, go ahead and invest in some ARP rod bolts and have the bottom end balanced while the machine shop has it. If cost is a concern, I would absolutely wait and get a little more money together to do all of that at the same time.

[brwloco]

what power will i be lookin at?

[99SI]

what cams are u running?

[brwloco]

im gonna be running either skunk2 pro1 or Crower

[99SI]

lol, that's not even a comparison between crower and skunk2 pro series. Right now the Skunk2 pro series is the best cam that you can get for what you are looking to do. Talk to vteckidd about getting a skunk2 pro1 cam and valvetrain package. If you run the skunk2 pro cams DO NOT RUN ANY OTHER VALVETRAIN but the skunk2 pro valvetrain. With skunk2pro1's and the rest of the setup you are talking about you will basicallly have the same motor I do. Depending on the header that you run you should be in the 185-190 range with a solid tune. If you have the extra money get a good header. If not then you can pick up a used DC JDM 4-1 header with 2.5" collector for a reasonable amount. I am running a sparks racing header which I expect to pick up a good 8-10 whp and a good bit of torque over the DC because of it's 4-2-1 design. Another advantage my motor will have is a three angle valve job and a little deshrouding done by DFE on my head. It's very easy to get cought up in doing everything at once and get in over your head. Think it out as to what you want to do, set a goal, figure up ALL of the parts you are going to need, make a budget, and get things done either when you get the money together or in stages. Unless you are just a baller and got the dough to spend, which in that case you can go a little bit deeper and make more power!

[brwloco]

yea i wish i could ball like that... thanx for the info