turbo can be spooling, but boost leak could be causing you to not get any pressure to the engine. check all couplers for tears, loose, etc. also, if you're using rubber couplers, replace them asap w/ silicone reinforced ones...rubber ones rip, tear, baloon, blow out, etc causing issues.

don't lose the injectors...you need to use a large injector w/ the hack. the way the hack works is the afc adjusts the voltage the ecu sees from the mapsensor keeping cel and limp mode away so you need negative corrections to keep it working. by retarding distributor timing a couple degrees you're on the right track, but you also need some boost timing control as well. the reason is because you are having to use a large negative correction to reduce your fueling by shifting yourself backwards in the fuel tables. so if the car is actually at 10" of vac your afc reduces the map voltage the ecu sees making the ecu see something like 18" or so. the problem with this is at say 2" of vac you are actually runing the very high timing of say 10" of vac to 12" of vac so retarding the dist timing makes up for that danger zone.

boost is the issue. at 2psi you're running timing of somewhere equivalent to say 8" or so of vac...again the 2 deg retard at the dizzy may help here, but once you start getting higher in boost it'll run the same timing as you increase boost pressure w/o retarding timing. 12psi runs same timing as 10psi as 8psi as 6psi...does that make sense. this results in a greater chance of having timing far too advanced and detonation will more than likely become an issue. w/ a msd btm you have a much better chance of staying safe. i ran the hack successfully for quite a while, but i would NEVER recommend it ever again because of these issues.

the problem is you're automatic and this is probably your best option. so, knowing all this, i would recommend one of these 2 options:
1. get an msd btm and retard .5 to .75 deg per pound of boost while keeping the mechanical base timing at the dizzy retarded 2 to 3 degrees from stock and get it dyno tuned.
2. do a 5 speed conversion, get a socketed/chipped ecu w/ crome, obd2a-1 conversion harness, dyno tune and sell the vafc to recoup some of the costs to convert and tune. this will result in a much safer/tuneable setup.

in the meantime, try setting your lo throttle correction setting at idle at -46 and the rest at -42. wideband the hi throttle corrections. when i ran the hack a lot of times at the higher boost ranges there wasn't much of a change between some of the higher negative corrections and i alway ran a lot richer than i wanted to.