Budget turbo question

[Bacon]

Once my swap is complete, I plan on doing a budget turbo build and wanted some input. The motor in question is an H23A Blue Top and the bottom end will be left alone. I only want to run 6-8psi with a Disco Potato and utilize the internal wastegate and log style manifold with the provision for the wastegate.Going to boost simply to give it a little more oomph and only looking into the 250hp range whether that be whp or crank hp.

1. Will 2.5" exhaust be sufficient for this setup?
2. FMIC or PWR intercooler?
3. Will the bottom end hold up to this?
4. Crome or Hondata?

Tuning will not be slacked on in the least bit. The only reason why I say budget turbo is I won't be spending a shit ton of money on this kit.

[HeyItsSkeero]

1: 2.5 will be find if you're ONLY looking for 250whp, it's going to be choking the shit out of flow though.
2: Idk much about the PWR air to water? I think that's what you're talking about.
3: Tuning is key on reliability. I'd just make sure you use ARP headstuds at least.
4: Don't use crome... If you don't want to spend the money on Hondata look into Neptune it's a MUCH better program overall.

Idk much about discos or h23's. But I know your motor is going to spool that turbo fast, you might want to ask someone that knows more about the turbo and motor if the turbo is going to efficient at higher RPMs or is it going to blow hot air into it. I'm just guessing here, but it's not a bad question to ask. Even if we both learn something :p

[Bacon]

1. It will still choke even at 2.5"? I know 3" is optimum but low boost really calls for 3"?
2. That is the one I am referring to.
3. I am assembling the motor with ARP headstuds anyways.
4. I have heard the same thing about Crome but wasn't sure.

If it helps, the Disco Potato is the equivalent of a T28. It will definitely spool good but I was just wondering what I could look at as far as the motor holding up. The FRM sleeves haven't been known to be the best.


EDIT: Just looked up the price for PWR intercoolers....is it worth its price for a low boost setup or are they geared more towards competition?

[B18c1Turboed]

Hahahah that's funny. I made 450+ out of a 2 1/2 inch exausht. Did it choke it some? Maybe but I couldn't tell a difference. Don't run water to air on the street more of hassle then u want to deal with.

[Bacon]

Hahahah that's funny. I made 450+ out of a 2 1/2 inch exausht. Did it choke it some? Maybe but I couldn't tell a difference. Don't run water to air on the street more of hassle then u want to deal with.

That's what I was thinking too. If I was running more than 10psi, I would definitely consider 3" but I will be using a wastegate that is set at 6-8psi so 10psi isn't in my future.

I guess the main question is will the block itself hold up?

[B18c1Turboed]

I'm not sure about h23. But on a gsr with rods and pistons stock sleeves we have made 650+.

[Bacon]

I'm not sure about h23. But on a gsr with rods and pistons stock sleeves we have made 650+.

Yeah, I have seen 600+hp B-series motors all day long. I will do some research on the H-series blocks and see what else I can come up with.

[HeyItsSkeero]

He'd make a little more power that's all. I personally rather run the 2.5.. I ran 2.5 on my b16 turbo and switched it out for 3" then went back to 2.5.. Mainly b/c the skunk2 catback quieter than the 3" straight pipe vibrant.

I agree water to air just seems like a big pain in the ass to deal with. And hell you can just order cxracings intercooler piping and buy a used intercooler, or buy both used.

Search on google about the h23 and being turbo'd. I'm finding mixed emotions about how much power on a stock block, 230-240? Idk, you might wanna look into it yourself. I don't want to steer you the wrong way on this. Tuning plays the biggest role though.

Cheap. Fast. Reliable. You can only pick 2 unfortunantly. :/

[HeyItsSkeero]

I'm not sure about h23. But on a gsr with rods and pistons stock sleeves we have made 650+.

Jw is that race gas? And how long do they last? I'd hate to know I spent so much money on sleeves for no reason lol. :/

[B18c1Turboed]

Yea after 400 we put race gas. The motor has lasted 3 years +

[HeyItsSkeero]

Oh then yeah that's understandable lol.

OP maybe you could look into switching to E85? That might help you out a little.

[thesammy]

As far as exhaust size, many say 3" is not needed until you're hitting almost 500whp.

I have a 2.5" all the way back, making 288whp. I also have an e-cut out, which when opened, dynoed 308whp. The less back pressure in a turbo set up, the more you will gain. And I'm only at 9psi. for 250hp range, 2.5" is going to work fine

[Bacon]

Cheap. Fast. Reliable. You can only pick 2 unfortunantly. :/

I plan on doing all three. However, if I had to pick two it will be cheap and reliable. Don't care for speed.

Oh then yeah that's understandable lol.

OP maybe you could look into switching to E85? That might help you out a little.

No E85. 93 octane at the pump.

[JDMJ]

Personally, ive never had a problem with chrome. Had 3 boosted cars, has never seemed to fail me.

[Bacon]

Personally, ive never had a problem with chrome. Had 3 boosted cars, has never seemed to fail me.

I've heard that tuning parameters are better with Neptune or Hondata. I am thinking S300.

[JDMJ]

I've heard that tuning parameters are better with Neptune or Hondata. I am thinking S300.

I know one difference is difference in fuel. I think HOndata has a more accurate level of tuning with adding or subtracting fuel.

[Dylan]

I had s300 in my civic. It was by far the best investment I made. Your tuning software isn't something you want to slack on.

[Bacon]

I had s300 in my civic. It was by far the best investment I made. Your tuning software isn't something you want to slack on.

Software and dyno tuning will definitely not be slacked on.

[Loaded811]

Once my swap is complete, I plan on doing a budget turbo build and wanted some input. The motor in question is an H23A Blue Top and the bottom end will be left alone. I only want to run 6-8psi with a Disco Potato and utilize the internal wastegate and log style manifold with the provision for the wastegate.Going to boost simply to give it a little more oomph and only looking into the 250hp range whether that be whp or crank hp.

1. Will 2.5" exhaust be sufficient for this setup?
2. FMIC or PWR intercooler?
3. Will the bottom end hold up to this?
4. Crome or Hondata?

Tuning will not be slacked on in the least bit. The only reason why I say budget turbo is I won't be spending a shit ton of money on this kit.

I think that the setup that you have jotted down will be perfectly fine for what your looking to do. First off only wanting around 250hp will be very easy to do with the setup you have described. Only going 6-8 pounds on an internally wastegated turbo is perfectly fine. 2.5" piping is fine, just try to make sure that its mandrel bent instead of crush bent. If for some reason you decide to go with the crush bent piping, go ahead and get 3". By the time the 3" exhaust is crushed for your bends you will end up with piping that is between 2.5"-2.75". A lot of people will try to gag you for not going with 3" mandrel bent piping, but for what your looking for and the flow characteristics that your setup will produce, you will be perfectly fine. As far as the intercooler somebody already commented on the hassle that is involved with a water to air intercooler. Water to air is however more effecient at cooling the charged air, but this application is better for non d/d setups aka drag cars. A simple air to air intercooler will be fine, just make sure that you don't go to big with your dimensions of the intercooler so you won't expericence any pressure drop. As far as your bottom end goes just stay conservative with your boost settings (6-12 psi) and like you mentioned before get a really good tune. As far as the engine management goes, your going to hear bad things about any of the engine managements that are out there. Hondata is very good (a little more costly up front), but very good. Chrome is good and the upfront cost is much cheaper. It basicly boils down to three things: What your power goals are. Your particular setup. Who your tuner is going to be. Your power goals are low and your setup is simple. I don't know if you have picked a tuner yet but I would recommend Scotty and Mainstream Performance. He has been tuning for a very long time and knows what he is doing. Picking a really good tuner is the key when your going forced induction, different parameters or fail safes can be setup through your tuner to keep your motor from coming apart from overboost and all the other crap that happens to our motors under boost. Hopefully this helps you some, do some research on the differences between the two systems (hondata and chrome) and see which one will fit your goals.

[Bacon]

Mainstream is the only company that will touch my car and Scotty is the only one I will let tune my car. Thanks for the advice.

[Loaded811]

No problem!

[jcs]

the block should hold the power no prob,i was on 10-12 and poped the ringlands on mine,but i have personally seen a bone stock h22 hold 375 and take a damn beating on a gt35r...i think youll be good with it man..

[Drummerboy]

Justin (cb7tuner) made 350+ on a stock block h22 turbo, I'd get in touch with him about how much boost, etc. I'm tuned on chrome, but I've heard nothing but good things about s300. Also, I made 347whp with a 2.5" downpipe. Oh, and FMIC all day. Unless you want to check your fluid levels everytime you go to get in the car, lol.

[Bacon]

Justin (cb7tuner) made 350+ on a stock block h22 turbo, I'd get in touch with him about how much boost, etc. I'm tuned on chrome, but I've heard nothing but good things about s300. Also, I made 347whp with a 2.5" downpipe. Oh, and FMIC all day. Unless you want to check your fluid levels everytime you go to get in the car, lol.

Thanks for the advice. Ultimately, I think going turbo is a stretch at the moment. My swap should be going in soon and will worry more about boost when I get through this stretch of school.