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Thread: smoking atand during vtec only!!!!

  1. #41
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    ok guys after the vaccum test i reved it in neutral a couple times and very little smoke even hitting about 5000 but i did notice my pcv lines were ballooning out pretty good then sucking back down so ima go with the crankcase venting needs to be better for now. i dont know what else to do after all these tests came out fine! i guess 11;5:1 needs better venting as stated earlier.
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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    ok guys after the vaccum test i reved it in neutral a couple times and very little smoke even hitting about 5000 but i did notice my pcv lines were ballooning out pretty good then sucking back down so ima go with the crankcase venting needs to be better for now. i dont know what else to do after all these tests came out fine! i guess 11;5:1 needs better venting as stated earlier.
    Need to check A/F also.. Or just do a WOT pull and kill car under WOT to check plugs, pull one and look for fuel,oil, etc.. And yes vent the block to catch can..

  3. #43
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    will do.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1civic View Post
    Need to check A/F also.. Or just do a WOT pull and kill car under WOT to check plugs, pull one and look for fuel,oil, etc.. And yes vent the block to catch can..
    x2

  5. #45
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    fixed! this was my first venture with going vtec with a 99 valve cover pcv block to vtec and had catch can ran from pcv valve to can then to intake to mimic the black box thats missing and this is a sealed can mind you. it would swell when reved and suck almost together when returning back to idle so i read a couple places that said to hull out the pvc so it was straight through with the sealed can set up and it worked! i will be tuning sometime soon was wanting to try for better cams first as i still have the 99 si cams right now. reps were given so thanks guys! peace.
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    WOW!!!!!

    Talking about rigging up a motor !!

    No offense but remind me not let you rebuild and put together a motor for me lolol


    I kid , glad it's fixed

  7. #47
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    it was just confusing with out the black box im used to using on the earlier block you know? ill be putting the pvc back in cause the line collapsing was the problem! thanks for all your help tech5!
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    No problem , it's very hard to give correct or guess answers on a computer without seeing what we are dealing with .We tend to base from our experience and I try to go by from a correct setup car not something that has been altered that is why it is so hard to help these days .maybe next time list all the things you have customized to help us help you better . (Not being a smart butt) Just trying to help you out thanks again , glad you got it taking care of .

  9. #49
    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by *EFilliated* View Post
    im gonna say valve stem seals from personal experience
    valve stem seals is usually ONLY on decel, or at first start up.

    if its smoking OIL and consuming OIL on WOT, its the rings or the bore is out of round. Either the gap is too fat or he has very low tension oil control rings.

    I will vote for the rings, thats prob it. Nothing you can do to fix it except re-ring it
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20 View Post
    nippon racing rings and i clocked em like i usually do top ring a little off from the exhaust center away from the thrust axis on the piston side skirt second a little off the intake but 180 from the first, oil control rings about 90 degrees apart. ive built a but load of these things but i used the same gsr head for years on mine. swapped that ride got another with ls swap and here im am but with a b16 head this time. i just wonder if i fell for the oh its only got blah blah miles on the head? looked great and already decked .10 thousandths but no other work was done at that time i just did the mods and plugged the head. ive used all the same stuff since 03 same seller and all! only possible thing i can tell right off is the pcv line ive run from valve cover to catch can has gotten to hot an may be sucking together some but i dont think theres any oil in the can still even at 500 miles. also ive noticed during this break in that when i do a vacume break letting the engine cost me to stops that it will blow out some smoke at idle then clear up. only in vtec and after pulling the vacume breaks and getting right back on it. that would be the main time oil could be sucked from the head right before the valve closes right? anyways thanks guys maybe its a little of both ring and seals.no smoke at start up or idle but will when reving in neutral.
    yup, you used shitty rings.

    Put OEM honda ones in, or personally i like Wisecos. the nippon,topline,etc rings all have REALLY fat gaps on the top ring, and really low tension oil control rings which means youre going to have smoking problems.

    i bet your top ring gap is like 20 lol

    you will get GOOD compression numbers because there is oil in the cylinder, and a compression test only tests the top ring anyway
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  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by *EFilliated* View Post
    if it was excessive blow by he would have seen it in his compression numbers and leak down numbers also. due to the fact that he stated the head has been used for years i would look more towards the seals that have never been touched.
    again not exactly. Compression tests only test the TOP RING and even with a 20-24 gap you will get REALLY good numbers , doesnt mean it wont burn oil. Leak down GENERALLY will tell you if the valve guides are bad, but no always.

    Its the oil control rings and the gap on his rings i almost guarantee it. Prob wouldnt hurt to do valve stem seals either, but i bet that is NOT the contributing factor
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    oh so he wasnt running a PCV system? LOL
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    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    no i was the hose that was on it wasnt good enough and kept collapsing letting the crank case build up pressure! try to please read the whole thread when contributing an answer ive seen your work and respect you but as far as nippon rings being shitty thats just some guys opinion as those are oem for many applications any way and i have never had problem when using them and id say since the shop opened in 03 i have more than enough engine builds under my belt and even so more way before that. i checked clearance and know how to file the gaps for clearance. thank you for taking time to look and contribute though.peace.
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    maybe Nippon isnt the one then, i know topline is FAT from experience. Its one of the chinese ones i know that sucks just as bad.

    Topline, Nippon, i forgot the other i may have them confused.

    glad you found the problem!
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  15. #55
    Road to All Motor10s *EFilliated*'s Avatar
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    True, I just added my opinion. And was wrong. Life goes on

    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    again not exactly. Compression tests only test the TOP RING and even with a 20-24 gap you will get REALLY good numbers , doesnt mean it wont burn oil. Leak down GENERALLY will tell you if the valve guides are bad, but no always.

    Its the oil control rings and the gap on his rings i almost guarantee it. Prob wouldnt hurt to do valve stem seals either, but i bet that is NOT the contributing factor
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  16. #56
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    maybe Nippon isnt the one then, i know topline is FAT from experience. Its one of the chinese ones i know that sucks just as bad.

    Topline, Nippon, i forgot the other i may have them confused.

    glad you found the problem!
    ive used em a bunch but never used top line. im the kind of person that if it works i stay with it till it dont lol.
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