Tuning and break-in period

[cm7k24]

I am about to drop a new and fresh built set up into my coupe,

now my question is, since im dropping new motor and a new turbo, do i have to let my motor breakin in first before i tune it or just do it as soon as i get the motor put in,



any input would be cool.

[ATLGt]

I say tune for a low level of boost (about 25% on your future max), drive 500 miles, checked AFR and tune for higher boost levels. After 500 miles, brake it in like you want to drive it. If you run a motor without pushing it during "brake in", you run the risk of glazing the cylinder walls.

[josh green]

Break it in on the dyno, full boost. No driving around without it being tuned or partial tunes. Have everything ready to go, crank the car to check for leaks. If there are no codes, problems or leaks turn the car off and don't start it again until your on the dyno. Scream the guts out on the dyno and then change the oil/filter. Then your good to go, "breakins" are pointless and won't allow for the best possible sealing of the rings.

[B18c1Turboed]

We usally start the car let it warm up, then change the oil and go too dyno!!!

[WalkS]

We usally start the car let it warm up, then change the oil and go too dyno!!!

Yep the same way I do it, start it up, warm up, change the oil and then beat on it! No pun intended. haha

[SPOOLIN]

all but post #2 are on the money.

[-S Double C-]

get in the car after its ready to crank hold gas to the floor crank it up and let it bang on the rev limter till warmed up.

[Big Baller]

Theres a lot of people in this thread that know whats up. I usually let mine come up to temp, drive it around the parking lot, change the oil and put it on the dyno

[Z U L8R]

everyone has their own methods,

i'd recommend priming the oil through the motor, starting the motor. letting it warm up to operating temperature, then changing the oil and filter with regular castrol gtx and motor break-in additive (i like comp cams additive).

as soon as possible get the car on the dyno and tune it for the lowest boost possible. drive the car accelerating and decelerating in gear. do not cruise at the same rpms or coast in neutral.

gradually work your way to more throttle position and more rpms. try to stay under 6000.

at 500 miles change the oil and filter again, if you want to put in more break in additive. continue these 500 mile increments until 2000 miles is acheived.

once you get to 2000 miles without incident, hit the dyno and turn it up to your goal.

that's my .02

Dave

[cm7k24]

a lot of good input, thanks guys.

[Destineal]

get in the car after its ready to crank hold gas to the floor crank it up and let it bang on the rev limter till warmed up.

You want his turbo to kill the motor?

[DirtyMechanic]

We usally start the car let it warm up, then change the oil and go too dyno!!!

this...

get in the car after its ready to crank hold gas to the floor crank it up and let it bang on the rev limter till warmed up.

you shouldnt post.... ever again.

everyone has their own methods,

i'd recommend priming the oil through the motor, starting the motor. letting it warm up to operating temperature, then changing the oil and filter with regular castrol gtx and motor break-in additive (i like comp cams additive).

as soon as possible get the car on the dyno and tune it for the lowest boost possible. drive the car accelerating and decelerating in gear. do not cruise at the same rpms or coast in neutral.

gradually work your way to more throttle position and more rpms. try to stay under 6000.

at 500 miles change the oil and filter again, if you want to put in more break in additive. continue these 500 mile increments until 2000 miles is acheived.

once you get to 2000 miles without incident, hit the dyno and turn it up to your goal.

that's my .02

Dave

this also...


but usually its start the car let it warm up... change the oil and filter. of course looking for leaking and burping the coolant system. shut it down... and have it towed to the dyno. usually the tuner starts off with wastegate for the break-in session/tune. then usually (whats in bold above) is done on the dyno... then your good to go for 500 street miles of about the same driving as the break in session on the dyno. never really cruising. but always in boost of off throttle vacuum to help clear the cylinders. oil change at 500 miles and then full boost tune.

but really call your tuner and see what he recomends. and what hes going to do...

[SPOOLIN]

i severely disagree with the whole tune to the lowest boost and then wait 2000 miles. Everything has done what its going to do in the first 5-10 minutes of running as far as "wear in" after that, the natural course of wear and tear has already begun at the rate it was designed for. Tune the car the first time how you want it to be for the rest of the time. If you want a 500hp car, do it and drive it. It you want a 300hp car, tune that and then drive it. etc.

[DirtyMechanic]

i severely disagree with the whole tune to the lowest boost and then wait 2000 miles. Everything has done what its going to do in the first 5-10 minutes of running as far as "wear in" after that, the natural course of wear and tear has already begun at the rate it was designed for. Tune the car the first time how you want it to be for the rest of the time. If you want a 500hp car, do it and drive it. It you want a 300hp car, tune that and then drive it. etc.

do you not understand cylinder pressure and seating the rings. yes about 80% of break in is done within the first 20 mins of driving. but 500-1000 miles after compression is still changing.

if you go full bore on a fresh motor. you have a chance of washing the cylinder with your rich full boost runs. compression will never come up. i have rebuilt many motors that ever after 1500miles of your so-called full boost break in. and compression never came up to anything reasonible and the motor never made good power for the psi it was running.

[SPOOLIN]

do you not understand cylinder pressure and seating the rings. yes about 80% of break in is done within the first 20 mins of driving. but 500-1000 miles after compression is still changing.

if you go full bore on a fresh motor. you have a chance of washing the cylinder with your rich full boost runs. compression will never come up. i have rebuilt many motors that ever after 1500miles of your so-called full boost break in. and compression never came up to anything reasonible and the motor never made good power for the psi it was running.

I run my engine at MINIMUM 600hp every time it runs and after 2 years it still has had the same compression up until a ring failure in a racing situation which no engine builder can prevent, i have built engines for people on this board that have done it exactly how i have stated and are running fine. You aren't going to wash anything out, ive FLOODED cylinders with gas and drained them and fired right back up perfectly fine several times (injector failure) and also ran into the 10's air fuel during tuning consistently in the higher boost stages of the tune. If your compression isn't correct and CONSISTENT after the FULL tune THEN SOMETHING ELSE WAS FUCKED UP that created your problem. I didn't invent this method, i've adapted to it for the last 4 years and it comes from some of the most reputable engine and race car builders in the sport compact genre.

[-S Double C-]

[QUOTE=DirtyMechanic;38827063]this...



you shouldnt post.... ever again.


And this is coming from a guy with a g35 and wheels who cant take some joking around from a guy with a 400+ daily driven integra and 800+hp capable civic

[-S Double C-]

[QUOTE=DirtyMechanic;38827063]this...



you shouldnt post.... ever again.


And this is coming from a guy with a g35 and wheels who cant take some joking around frm a guy with a 400+ daily driven integra and 800+hp capable civic

If yah want a real answer do as (danny) b18c1turboed stated

[DirtyMechanic]

And this is coming from a guy with a g35 and wheels who cant take some joking around frm a guy with a 400+ daily driven integra and 800+hp capable civic

If yah want a real answer do as (danny) b18c1turboed stated

not that hard to quote someone... but then again if your knocking on my car when you have a civic i can see why.

[-S Double C-]

not that hard to quote someone... but then again if your knocking on my car when you have a civic i can see why.

yeah a civic with more in the motor then your car but hell what do i know. i choose my integra for insurance reasons i have two recless driving tickets on my record if i wanted a g35 or something along those lines id go pay for one cash but im fine with our 00 bmw 528i,09 yukon, my civic and my teg.

[DirtyMechanic]

yeah a civic with more in the motor then your car but hell what do i know. i choose my integra for insurance reasons i have two recless driving tickets on my record if i wanted a g35 or something along those lines id go pay for one cash but im fine with our 00 bmw 528i,09 yukon, my civic and my teg.

mommys and daddys cars dont count but its nice people on IA still compare dick sizes by how much money they dumb into a civic im just going to have to back down with my paid off car that I paid for....

[SPOOLIN]

who gives a shit about both of your cars, were talkin about making power regardless of whose chassis is more expensive.

[cm7k24]

lmao, some how everyone get to the point of ragging on each other on this forum!


back to the thread please!!

[Black4DrEK]

Start up.. Warm up.. give a few revs..

Turn off.. change oil.. GO GET TUNED!!!!

x 2002098282098320938

[Nemesis]

tuning is for fast and furious ricers. Run that shit wide open throttle the pentium chip will adjust your fuel maps automatically.

[88NaCivic]

lmao, some how everyone get to the point of ragging on each other on this forum!


back to the thread please!!

Was thinking the same thing myself!

[KevinT707]

the hatred in this thread makes me lolz, but the advice of the several seem good to me.

[wanganU13]

tuning is for fast and furious ricers. Run that shit wide open throttle the pentium chip will adjust your fuel maps automatically.

whats that chip do and is it only for stangs?

[drewmob]

Yep the same way I do it, start it up, warm up, change the oil and then beat on it! No pun intended. haha

wow, this is really good information. thanks!

[AnthonyF]

My theory is, break it in the way your going to be driving it the most. If your gonna baby it forever, then baby the break in. If your building it to 1/4 mile drag, get on that bitch almost immediately. After my builds I would make 1 or 2 1mile trips then nail it through a few gears.

Everyone has their own methods.

-Ant.

[DirtyMechanic]

My theory is, break it in the way your going to be driving it the most. If your gonna baby it forever, then baby the break in. If your building it to 1/4 mile drag, get on that bitch almost immediately. After my builds I would make 1 or 2 1mile trips then nail it through a few gears.

Everyone has their own methods.

-Ant.

and you wonder why you melted how many sets of pistons?

[AnthonyF]

and you wonder why you melted how many sets of pistons?

Not due to break in periods.

-Ant.

[cm7k24]

Not due to break in periods.

-Ant.

you would punch it like that before you tune??

[-S Double C-]

mommys and daddys cars dont count but its nice people on IA still compare dick sizes by how much money they dumb into a civic im just going to have to back down with my paid off car that I paid for....

dad is in prision for 18 years, mom lives off social security and drives a 98 blazer good try..and live 2 hours away good try.

[-S Double C-]

who gives a shit about both of your cars, were talkin about making power regardless of whose chassis is more expensive.

Fuck you with a capitol F he wanted to go starting shit about my civic in my sig he got what i had to say...simple as that.

[josh green]

^^^ He isn't trying to belittle you, he is stating that it doesn't matter who drives what or who's internet dick is larger. Just saying thats how you break it in regardless of engine type and to stay on topic.

[-S Double C-]

^^^ He isn't trying to belittle you, he is stating that it doesn't matter who drives what or who's internet dick is larger. Just saying thats how you break it in regardless of engine type and to stay on topic.

I understand that bro and im not trying to argue just saying he needs to stay out of it was i talking to him? I say something to the OP as a joke like i do in alot o thread and this g35 dude comes in bashing as if im forreal.

[josh green]

No, you weren't talking to him, but that's a pretty shitty punk ass attitude to have about it with that reply you just posted. He was trying to keep the thread on topic before the pissing match got out of hand. I guess you were taking the things that g35 dude is saying to heart. Yeah he kinda started it by saying something about a car that you own, but you bought right into it.

[-S Double C-]

No, you weren't talking to him, but that's a pretty shitty punk ass attitude to have about it with that reply you just posted. He was trying to keep the thread on topic before the pissing match got out of hand. I guess you were taking the things that g35 dude is saying to heart. Yeah he kinda started it by saying something about a car that you own, but you bought right into it.

sorry but with my race it comes off natural. The END!