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Thread: Does it sound relatively safe??

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    mm...Needs some Salt teh_mugen18's Avatar
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    Default Does it sound relatively safe??

    This is the goal - at least 250whp, and a break into the 12 second quarter mile time... along with daily driveability and longevity of pretty much a lifetime. lol.

    Now, based on what i'm lookng for, i was at first going to just go ahead and build an LS block with some Manley i-beam rods, <unknown> forged pistons, ACL race bearings, and NPR piston rings and run 'blank' amounts of boost making anywhere from 300+whp. BUT after doing a bit of reading, and looking at one of those quartermile ET calculators, i ended up figuring out that its possible for me to break into the 12's with just under 250whp.

    That's good news i guess for me, because it means i no longer have to build that forged block... since i currently have an LSvtec with ~2,300miles on it since its been rebuilt, i guess i could easily run 250whp safely from that and still meet my requirements listed at the beginning of the post on a stock bottom end, couldn't I?

    EDIT: so basically... whatever amount of boost i need to push to make 250whp is where i'll tell my tuner to stop at. Unless i would need to make some room for boost creeping possibly??
    Last edited by teh_mugen18; 01-24-2010 at 05:38 PM.


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    ia "racist" dallasb84's Avatar
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    yes,,,,

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    250 i don't think you'd hit 12's honestly....unless ur car weighs less than 2000 lbs, find out how much power ur block can handle as is, and if it's over 250 (which i'm sure it can handle more) work on the head so you can build boost faster and make more power
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    In a FWD you will be hard pressed to pull 12's with 250, unless you are willing to drive around without all your creature comforts and willing to change to slicks at the track. I would go ahead and push for the 300 mark. I don't know a lot about Hondas but from what I've heard the stock bottom ends should hold 300 with no problem as long as you don't go boosting it at every red light.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TSiFTW View Post
    In a FWD you will be hard pressed to pull 12's with 250, unless you are willing to drive around without all your creature comforts and willing to change to slicks at the track. I would go ahead and push for the 300 mark. I don't know a lot about Hondas but from what I've heard the stock bottom ends should hold 300 with no problem as long as you don't go boosting it at every red light.

    They'll hold, but who knows for how long... I'm wanting to try to go for a good bit of reliability with this setup too since its my DD. So, i guess whatever times it happens to make with ~250 - 260whp on (x)psi with the stock bottom end is whatever i get in the end.


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    put it on the dyno when it makes the power you want stop there it's a simple as that.


    be conservative and keep boost 15psi or below and you shouldn't ave any problems with reliability and running pump gas. and depending on the turbo 15lb's should acheive your power goals easily

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    Haven't you had massive problems out of your lsvtec? Make sure all issues are fixed before you even attempt a turbo.

    250whp is fine on a stock ls piston, and you should make that easy with the proper turbo kit.

    You never mentioned a turbo size so "xx" boost is irrelevant. 10psi on a gt42r is different than a gt25r.

    If I were you i would run a t3 size, prob a t3 super 60, t28, etc. Stay away from t3/t4 turbos too laggy for what you want.

    DO NOT cheap out on your bov and wastegate. Buy a name brand bov (used or new ) and get a tial wastegate. You don't want eBay no name bov or wastegate

    eBay intercooler is fine.

    You'll need at least 450cc injectors (dsm or rc)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    Haven't you had massive problems out of your lsvtec? Make sure all issues are fixed before you even attempt a turbo.

    250whp is fine on a stock ls piston, and you should make that easy with the proper turbo kit.

    You never mentioned a turbo size so "xx" boost is irrelevant. 10psi on a gt42r is different than a gt25r.

    If I were you i would run a t3 size, prob a t3 super 60, t28, etc. Stay away from t3/t4 turbos too laggy for what you want.

    DO NOT cheap out on your bov and wastegate. Buy a name brand bov (used or new ) and get a tial wastegate. You don't want eBay no name bov or wastegate

    eBay intercooler is fine.

    You'll need at least 450cc injectors (dsm or rc)

    TUNE!


    Where would a t3/t4 turbocharger be at its full boost though in comparison to the ones you mentioned? I dont really know much about turbochargers themselves yet, but i want it to be good on the highway since my cruising rpms @ ~80mph are just under 4,000rpms and i dont want it to be in boost the whole time

    and i also considered a T04B, what is your take on that one as far as driveability, lagginess, etc? I saw someone on H-T who used that turbocharger at ~8psi and made slightly over 300whp on stock bottom end LSvtec.
    Last edited by teh_mugen18; 02-06-2010 at 11:27 AM.


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    It's possible to get a really small t3/t4 but if you are shooting for only 250-260whp, straight t3 will give you a fat powerband.

    I would prob look at the obx gt28rs , they are like $350 but are built with Garret parts. I think you replace a $18 bearing it's the same as a Garret turbo that costs $1200
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    i have a t25 on my gsr as my dd and its lsv. i love it around town. deff not a highway drag car.
    id go with t28 for fast spool

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    I would prob look at the obx gt28rs , they are like $350 but are built with Garret parts. I think you replace a $18 bearing it's the same as a Garret turbo that costs $1200
    which would be good for those long highway cruises/fun-runs?


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    well you have 2 things with a turbo

    You can either have a FAT powerband quick spool that tapers off up top. Or a laggy turbo that picks up steam higher in the powerband.

    I think a GT28RS would give you the best of both worlds quick spool, but still have room to go uptop.

    Honestly for 250whp why not just Supercharge it? Its WAY CHEAPER and easier, its instant power when you hit the gas, etc
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    ^^^i didnt know it was just as easy to make 250whp supercharged vs. turbocharged? I was under the assumption that superchargers fell short in some way most of the time. Mainly, due to the high intake air temps.


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    People don't like supercharging 4 cylinders because it takes power to make power. That point is irrelevant with the right setup though. If you want to DD it, you might as well overbuild it. I wouldn't take my chances with stock internals if I were you.

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    Well with a motor that makes 170-180whp with 6-8psi you can make 240-250whp with a $1000 supercharger . No hassle of an intercooler, bov, wastegate , turbo manifold , intercooler etc

    if you'll be happy with mid 200s supercharge it
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    Well with a motor that makes 170-180whp with 6-8psi you can make 240-250whp with a $1000 supercharger . No hassle of an intercooler, bov, wastegate , turbo manifold , intercooler etc

    if you'll be happy with mid 200s supercharge it

    woah, $1,000 supercharger? What brand is that, and where can it be found?

    I've only seen the Jackson Racing ones that usually sell for ~$3,000


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    i ran a 12.7 or 8 i forget in a heavy ass full interior 4 door integra with a stock ls on 12 lbs and bogging 205/50/15 bfg drag radials because of crome pro's gay ass lauch control so it can be done.
    I do rb20 and rb25 wiring into s13 and s14's 300.00 shipped 24hr turn around turn ket start guaranteed! PM me for more details!

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    You can used ones all day long for $900-1300

    I bought mine for $1200 locally

    search eBay and Honda-tech. Superchargers usually don't "go bad" just need to make sure the coating is still on the paddles and it spins freely
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    the coating on the rotors is not that big of a deal. JRSC kits new were 2600$

    like mike said, 1000-1200 usually for a clean used kit. i would recommend running a 9psi setup and TUNING THAT FUCKER.

    Im not saying don't go turbo though
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    Turbo is good too, but on a budget I don't know why more people don't supercharge. For the money if you want to stay around mid 200s it's simple and easy with little drawback.

    Superchargers don't require cams or anythig plenty of stock motors with a good header and 9-10psi male over 250whp
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vteckidd View Post
    Turbo is good too, but on a budget I don't know why more people don't supercharge. For the money if you want to stay around mid 200s it's simple and easy with little drawback.

    Superchargers don't require cams or anythig plenty of stock motors with a good header and 9-10psi male over 250whp
    x2. Superchargers are very reliable, basically a direct bolt-on, and make instant torque and hp right from the hit. I had a stock d16 that made 170whp supercharged that I gave absolute hell, no problems what so ever.
    500whp of spinnin fury!!!

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    i had a supercharger and made 230 stock internals on 7ibs gsr it was ok sucked bad on highway. so i went turbo.

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    Depends what chassis. My crx there wasn't much that would hang with it stop light to stop light and it would have destroyed a few 300whp turbo cars

    the trans helped a lot though :p
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    Quote Originally Posted by xdavidscenex View Post
    i had a supercharger and made 230 stock internals on 7ibs gsr it was ok sucked bad on highway. so i went turbo.

    lol, how do you mean "sucked bad on highway"??

    Like.... it basically didnt offer you any pushing power after a certain mph up top, or it actually did its job well by sucking plenty of air in?


    more detail please!

    EDIT: plus, this is gonna be going on an LSvtec setup, idk if that'll mean too much of a difference though since in the end they're almost twin engines... (gsr and lsvtec)


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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusEG View Post
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