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Thread: 1990 talon tsi

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    Default 1990 talon tsi

    i just bought a talon awd turbo and its acting up at 2000 rpm. it sounds like it has launch control.. but if i hit the gas real hard it passes through there with no problem, if the rpm drops to 2000 rpm at any ttime while driving it feels like a power cut my ignition or fuel.. i think its that sensor in the air filter box... mas airflow.. is there any way i can by pass it... i seen turbo upraded one online without it.. just trying to get some pointers...



    thanx for all the help people i'm trying to get the sensor and the ecu... thanks for all the pointers also... here are soe pics.. its kinda oily and dirty now becasue of all the work i been doing.. here goes.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -2nbedg5-jpg   -23s93cy-jpg   -2aj1fu9-jpg   -2d0kwg2-jpg   -2cmn59h-jpg  

    Last edited by fabulous; 05-28-2009 at 12:09 PM.
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    I heart fat girls tinkolby_25's Avatar
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    the only way to ever bypass maf is to get a standalone ems which is expensive

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    Respect is EARNED Motivation's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabulous
    i just bought a talon awd turbo and its acting up at 2000 rpm. it sounds like it has launch control.. but if i hit the gas real hard it passes through there with no problem, if the rpm drops to 2000 rpm at any ttime while driving it feels like a power cut my ignition or fuel.. i think its that sensor in the air filter box... mas airflow.. is there any way i can by pass it... i seen turbo upraded one online without it.. just tryhing to get some pointers...
    Do you have safc2 or anything? Do you have a wideband?
    Back to being stock and slow

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    no its totally stock, i just bought it and it started acting up. i want to upgrade the turbo kit but i need to fix that problem first... do u think that sensor is whats causing it to do that?
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    You do not need an AEM EMS to not run a MAF. You have a few options -

    1. If your ECU is Eprom, then you can get it chipped to not run a 1G MAF, and instead run a 2G MAF. They flow alot more air than a 1G MAF and are a good upgrade.
    2. You can run a GM MAF and a MAF translator to eliminate the stock MAF.
    3. You can run a good piggyback, like DSM Link or get a SAFC to help tune your MAF better. DSM Link is not that expensive, you can get V2 for $450. It is not bad considering what you can do with it, for a DSM.

    Ideally, you want to get the DSM Link to help tune your car. But if you don't have that much money at first, then buy a GM MAF and a MAF translator to solve your problem.

    So you are running stock boost? And have you checked your spark plugs and see what the gap is on them? You need to be running a .28 gap on them for a stock-low boost level. Check it out and let us know.

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    Respect is EARNED Motivation's Avatar
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    I would go about .32 on the gap... That's what I was running and I ran 20 psi daily. Most of my other buddies that have boosted cars run low .30s also. his car is also a 90 so the ECU is eprom.

    Unless you plan on upgrading more than just a few things, I would just get it to run the 2g maf. If you plan on upgrading a good bit, I would get dsmlink (they actually say they are calling it something else, the new version of it, but it is around $500) then you won't need a translator when you run a gm maf because it does it for you. You can also set up everything about your car with it.

    If it was spark plug issue, I believe it would get worse whenever you hit boost. You say though, if you hit the throttle hard it goes through the RPM's fine, right? So, is it just at light throttle around low RPMs?
    Back to being stock and slow

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    YEAH, i bought new plugs .. never gapped them though.. but it goes throught the rpm smooth after 2000 rpm.. the check engine lights flashes sometimes a 2000rpm when it stutters.. so the gm MAF has the same plug connection? or will i need to cut and splice?
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    Possibly a bad ground some where. Rx-7s have a hesitation and it is usually a ground issue. Look at them and see if any look kinda shitty ( frayed wires, poor contact that kinda thing)
    Try not. Do or Do not.

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    aiight
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    Respect is EARNED Motivation's Avatar
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    Got this from VFAQ.com... Check out the site!

    My car stumbles/misses when accelerating. Is there a fix?
    This is usually poor ignition, caused by:

    bad, incorrect, platinum or poorly gapped spark plugs
    bad or loose plug wires
    bad ignition coil
    bad transistor pack
    Try swapping each one out until you fix the problem. Testing the components may or may not reveal the problem; many people have had components (especially wires) test ok, but perform badly on the car. Plug wires may also be loose in the coil pack, although they may look fine.

    Other possible causes include a bad battery connection (or bad battery), leading to poor power to the fuel pump; misaligned timing belt; excessively high airflow through the 1G MAS, leading to 'missed' counts; incorrect routing of the vacuum hoses on the throttle body (there was a mistake in a shop manual somewhere); decaying of the ECU capacitors (a must read - go here for details); worn camshaft lobes (normally only a possible problem on certain aftermarket parts called Web Cams); or (in at least one case) a broken thermostat.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    ok thanks man i'ma try that tomorrow!!
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    I'm willing to bet that Motivation is close to being dead on. Of course, I had a hard time reading what you said.
    Koi
    Proud former owner and future owner of a 1996 Mitshibishi Eclipse Spyder GSX(AWD). Ready to sell it back to me yet, Vonrok?

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    have you tried spark plug wires? ive seen a similar but backwards problem on mx6.com where it would sputter after 3k rpm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by koi
    I'm willing to bet that Motivation is close to being dead on. Of course, I had a hard time reading what you said.

    I'm about 99% Motivation listed everything possible. I remember his giving him a hell of a time. Just try everything Motivation said and I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
    "Damn, Its Tyler"
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    Mine did the same thing, Replaced the coil packs and all was well...
    Quote Originally Posted by cprtyler View Post
    bump wish had the cash for a tranny
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fast-Tech™
    I'm about 99% Motivation listed everything possible. I remember his giving him a hell of a time. Just try everything Motivation said and I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
    Yeah, one time mine ended up being a fouled out spark plug. The second time it was an injector plug that popped off. But what it would actually be doing is when I hit boost or 2.5k and higher it would stutter because it was causing it to try to spark faster, and it couldn't, resulting in the "stumbling".

    Either way, good luck with it. Let us know if that works.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivation
    I would go about .32 on the gap... That's what I was running and I ran 20 psi daily. Most of my other buddies that have boosted cars run low .30s also. his car is also a 90 so the ECU is eprom.

    Unless you plan on upgrading more than just a few things, I would just get it to run the 2g maf. If you plan on upgrading a good bit, I would get dsmlink (they actually say they are calling it something else, the new version of it, but it is around $500) then you won't need a translator when you run a gm maf because it does it for you. You can also set up everything about your car with it.

    If it was spark plug issue, I believe it would get worse whenever you hit boost. You say though, if you hit the throttle hard it goes through the RPM's fine, right? So, is it just at light throttle around low RPMs?
    Yes... .32 gap would be good for him. I forget I am running a little higher boost than others... But just FYI, the new DSM Link is called ECM Link.

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    ok.. changed the wires and it still aint do anything.lol... plugs are gapped 32... so i guess its to the coils to check tomorrow... hey i upgraded my turbo today to a 16g.. i'm oly getting 7-10 psi though.... is there anyway for me to turn the boost up...? hey i need a turbo manifold for a t3/t4 turbo.... let me know if anyone got one laying around...
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabulous
    ok.. changed the wires and it still aint do anything.lol... plugs are gapped 32... so i guess its to the coils to check tomorrow... hey i upgraded my turbo today to a 16g.. i'm oly getting 7-10 psi though.... is there anyway for me to turn the boost up...? hey i need a turbo manifold for a t3/t4 turbo.... let me know if anyone got one laying around...
    Yes, you can turn the boost up. You need a boost controller... either a manual or electronic. I would recommend a manual boost controller for your set-up. Also, I would look into getting a wideband to monitor your A/F. I would not run more than 15psi in that 16G on your engine, because I assume you have 450cc injectors.

    I sent you a PM!

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    yeah i sill got the stock injectors..
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabulous
    ok.. changed the wires and it still aint do anything.lol... plugs are gapped 32... so i guess its to the coils to check tomorrow... hey i upgraded my turbo today to a 16g.. i'm oly getting 7-10 psi though.... is there anyway for me to turn the boost up...? hey i need a turbo manifold for a t3/t4 turbo.... let me know if anyone got one laying around...

    Slow down there cowboy! I love dsm's more then anybody. But even i'm not that crazy to start upgrading parts when my car is having issues. Get your issues fixed first.
    Koi
    Proud former owner and future owner of a 1996 Mitshibishi Eclipse Spyder GSX(AWD). Ready to sell it back to me yet, Vonrok?

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    Default lol

    Quote Originally Posted by koi
    Slow down there cowboy! I love dsm's more then anybody. But even i'm not that crazy to start upgrading parts when my car is having issues. Get your issues fixed first.
    lol.. thats the only reason i bought it was to run big boost so the little stuttering aint going to stop me from running it... but its just annoying feeling it stutter at 2000 rpm.... weather or not its fixed this cowboy is going to ride.lol.. i need a 1g MAF .. or some one sell me a 2g whol already got the conversion harness..
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    Why you need a manifold with a T3/T4 flange if you have a 16g on there now??? That turbo will last you a while until you start modding a good bit.


    If you are going big boost, then you don't wanna go with the 1g MAF... go with the GM and ECM Link. You plan on building the motor any? I can promise you that you are going to be highly pissed by just throwing 20+PSI on it without upgrading fuel and other supporting mods...

    oh btw, I have an intercooler + piping and couplings if you want to pick them up cheap. I had it on my car when I had a evo 3 16g on there.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    Yo Motivation send me some pics of that IC and piping I might pick that up from you if
    this guy doesn't want it ...

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    I'll lay them out and take pics for ya tomorrow, bro.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    i got a intercooler.... is there a blow off already on the piping? if so i want it.... i wanna see how much this stock motor can hold.... any one got an extra block lying around.. cause i think i might need it.lol....
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    i had a k20 hatch before, and i had bought a t3/t4 garrett turbo kit for it..... sold the hatch and still got my turbo kit. so i am trying to eventually bolt that on
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabulous
    i got a intercooler.... is there a blow off already on the piping? if so i want it.... i wanna see how much this stock motor can hold.... any one got an extra block lying around.. cause i think i might need it.lol....
    What kind of BOV you want?

    You're not going to actually see how much the motor itself can hold unless you do fuel upgrades. You are going to run stupid lean and end up destroying the motor before it even comes close to it's full potential... But good luck.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    ssq is my favourite.. hey, fuel upgrade as in fuel pump and regulator? that's enough rite? or what other fuel upgrade do they have for dsm?
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    I would recommend Walbro 255 fuel pump, injectors, and regulator...

    go here for some BOVs. I bought my adapter from them. Good service.

    http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/home.php
    Back to being stock and slow

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    got the pics of your piping yet? wanna c it. i'm really interested...
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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    u said injectors? what power are the stock ones rated for? cause i know when i had my first boosted integra with 330 hp i had these blue tops injectors in it... and if i upgrade or what upgrade can i get that will just plug up and work or will i have to retune or get some map or something on the ecu?
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    Certified Gearhead koi's Avatar
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    If you plan on running e85. Plan on 1000+ sized injectors. If your just going to run normal boost. 550+ should be plenty. You can also get a supra fuel pump. I prefer that one myself. It flows just a little more then the 255 and is quieter. That's what my spyder had in it.

    But as far as you buying this car for big boost is all fine and good. But do you want a car that will run or a car that will end up setting in your drive way. All i'm saying is fix any and all issues the car may have and go to town after that.
    Koi
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    Respect is EARNED Motivation's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by koi
    If you plan on running e85. Plan on 1000+ sized injectors. If your just going to run normal boost. 550+ should be plenty. You can also get a supra fuel pump. I prefer that one myself. It flows just a little more then the 255 and is quieter. That's what my spyder had in it.

    But as far as you buying this car for big boost is all fine and good. But do you want a car that will run or a car that will end up setting in your drive way. All i'm saying is fix any and all issues the car may have and go to town after that.
    This sounds VERY familiar. Sad thing is that I was fixing everything on it right when I got it... Just tore the motor apart... and... lets just say... bad news. Cracked head FTL.

    There is a difference in DSM and Honda when going with injectors... DSMs make power very easily and quickly. It's normal for a honda to be tuned at 10 psi. It's normal for a DSM to be tuned close to 20 or more... The more boost, the more fuel that is needed... I am... WAS running 680 PTE injectors in mine. They were ample for what I was doing and I was running 20psi
    Back to being stock and slow

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    Quote Originally Posted by fabulous
    got the pics of your piping yet? wanna c it. i'm really interested...
    Sorry, someone already ended up buying them.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    ATL ROAD HOG fabulous's Avatar
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    oh ok.. thats cool... what about if i change the injectors will i need to upgrade or retune the computer?
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    Well, you have a 1990 so that means your ECU is EPROM. So, the ECU is good. I would just get an safc2 or something of the sort... Or ECM Link, depending on how much you looking to spend.
    Back to being stock and slow

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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivation
    Well, you have a 1990 so that means your ECU is EPROM. So, the ECU is good. I would just get an safc2 or something of the sort... Or ECM Link, depending on how much you looking to spend.
    Not all 90's are eprom. I want to write out some big speech about making a DSM go fast,but i've done it to many times. Ill just wait for it to blow up and if its awd ill go snatch it up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fabulous
    oh ok.. thats cool... what about if i change the injectors will i need to upgrade or retune the computer?
    What are your goals for the car.

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    anything between 400- 500hp i'l satisfy with.450 is my goal..i got a afc today.. the blue and silver one...
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