Help identifying turbo
This is the turbo in question with my last thread about water cooling. I know it is a Garrett and was informed that it may be a GT2876R dual ball bearing turbo. Here are a few pics of it to help. The compressor housing has a .86 stamped in the casting and the turbine housing has the .60AR on it. All help gets rep'd.
Originally Posted by Echonova
Garrett Number: GT2860RS Part Number: 739548-5001
Comp Housing: .60 AR Turbine Housing: .86
Internally Wastegated, 320HP. T25 Flange, commony known as teh "Disco Potato" or GT28RS, great upgrade turbo for the SR20 engine, although some minor modifications are required to air intatke and boost outlet piping.
thats all i know about it
Here you go
http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/G...l#_739548_5001
Looks to be a GT2860R or the "disco potato."
The part number on it says it should be the RS which is internally gated but yours seems to be external which would be the R and end in 5010.
Edit...Dammit i was beat.
Either way, it's a ball bearing turbo. Which is why its water cooled.
Oh and you have a broken stud in the exhaust flange.
And this straight from Garrett.
Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.
Following a hot shutdown of a turbocharger, heat soak begins. This means that the heat in the head, exhaust manifold, and turbine housing finds it way to the turbo’s center housing, raising its temperature. These extreme temperatures in the center housing can result in oil coking.
To minimize the effects of heat soak-back, water-cooled center housings were introduced. These use coolant from the engine to act as a heat sink after engine shutdown, preventing the oil from coking. The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after key-off. The layout of the pipes should minimize peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger about 25° about the axis of shaft rotation.
Many Garrett turbos are water-cooled for enhanced durability.
This is the weird thing. The last turbo I had was a TE04H and had the flap for the internal wastegate. The new turbo doesn't have that metal "flap" over the hole on the exhaust side. I am used to seeing the Disco Potato with the wastegate actuator bolted onto the side. Reps to both of you.
So will you sell it to me? pm me a price.
I don't know. Now thinking that I got a Disco Potato for such a good price, I may keep it. Money talks though.
^Well pm me what you want for it, I have cash in hand.
Here is another question about it that I am confused on. What differs my tater from the taters on this page?
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...S_739548_1.htm
Yikes I had a disco potato about 5 years ago and the wastegate exit was WAY bigger than that. You'll need an actuator too.
I will go through ATP turbo for the stuff I need. Just wondering why my tater has a different compressor exit than the one in the link I just posted.
All you'll need is a manifold for an external waste gate provision and you'll have to run an external gate.. and a down pipe flange that covers up the waste gate hole on the turbine housing.
The Gt28's all had different choices for turbine housings so I guess the one you got i for an external gate.
That hole is the normal size for WG port. It's a small ass turbo so it doesn't need to be that big. Also to run an internal gate there is another piece, or housing, that bolts on the back of your turbine housing.
That sounds about right. I will be taking the stuff over to Mainstream to have them modify and weld the manifold and downpipe that I already have. The manifold I have isn't the best manifold but will work for 8-10 lbs.
Robert also have them weld the flap for the wastegate closed too and run a external Tial wastegate routed to your uim, it will benifit you!
Too bad it didnt turn out to be a gt3076r like my turbo ;-)
Ryan
1998 BLACK SVT Contour-SOLD-
2000 SILVER SVT Contour 3L Turbo 322.9 whp/350.9tq at 8psi
2005 White Buick Rainier CXL~The comfy dd~
www.myspace.com/ryany1976
Yeah that turbo would have been nice but this is the turbo that is best for our displacment. I love how my engine is in close comparison to a 2L GSR motor.
Good man, y eah I have heard mixed reviews about putting a gt3076r on the focus, but yeah it does look to be that will be a better turbo for your car.
Ryan
1998 BLACK SVT Contour-SOLD-
2000 SILVER SVT Contour 3L Turbo 322.9 whp/350.9tq at 8psi
2005 White Buick Rainier CXL~The comfy dd~
www.myspace.com/ryany1976
It will be a fun little addition to the Focus. Making it into an auto-x / mountain car.
bump for a "disco potato"
OBAMA..... *IS*
One. Big. Ass. Mistake. America.
Yes, you do have a GT2860RS. It comes standard with a 3" inlet and a 2" outlet, which is what your turbo has. Your turbo also has a T3 turbine housing on it, that was an option for all the GT28R series turbos. It should spool very quickly and pull strong in the upper RPM band. You have a good turbo on your hands!
BTW, just food for thought, not all BB turbos are water and oil-cooled. Some are just oil-cooled... look at the Turbonetics BB turbos. A few other companies are like this as well, such as Comp and Innovative. If a turbo is BB and only oil-cooled, it normally means it has the ceramic BB center center. It can withstand heat alot better than the standard BB center section... it is more advanced turbo technology.
Well, the middle housing has the four openings for the oil and water inlet and outlet ports.
Yeah, that is because you have a Garrett BB turbo. All of them come with oil and water cooling.
id say get a shop to clean the living shit out of it before u put it on the car
OBAMA..... *IS*
One. Big. Ass. Mistake. America.
I couldnt agree more, and 1000000000000% get a turbo blanket dude.
Ryan
1998 BLACK SVT Contour-SOLD-
2000 SILVER SVT Contour 3L Turbo 322.9 whp/350.9tq at 8psi
2005 White Buick Rainier CXL~The comfy dd~
www.myspace.com/ryany1976
Will do. Looking at a second option right now but will keep yall posted.
Another question about this turbo. By looking at the pics, can someone tell me what flanges I need so I can start my build?
The turbine inlet is a T3 flange and the turbine outlet is the standard 5-bolt outlet flange. Call ATP turbo, they specialize in Garrett BB turbochargers. Tell them what you need and they will have exactly what you need.
Thank you noob. You shall recieve rep.
Cool, thanks!
Well, I have a manifold and downpipe that has TE04H flanges on it, so I figured I would just knock those flanges off and reweld the right ones on. Bought a turbo kit from a former friend but the turbo that came with it was shit, so I scrapped it and kept the piping. I just don't know what to do with my manifold. It is an equal length manifold that may be worth as much as a useless paper weight. I will post pics and let ya see it to see what I am working with.
I know I need to fab the piping for the external wastegate that I will be using.
Alright, sounds good. At least by using those flanges you will be cutting off, you will be saving money. Yeah, post up some pictures of the exhaust manifold you plan to use. You have any idea what brand it is? And you said it has no provision for a WG on it?
I know the turbo kit was a prototype from Gude at one point for my model Focus. Yeah, there are no provisions for the WG so they need to be welded in. I will snap pics tomorrow when I get off.
Alright, well being that it is a prototype, I am assuming that the tubing used to make it is the inferior material, like that of a Megan Racing or OBX exhaust manifold. Not that this is bad, but it can be an issue if you plan you run excessive amounts of boost. Being you are boosting your Focus, I assume you will be running a low amount of PSI. This is a factor played into what manifold you need to run. Heat and wear over time will crack a manifold, but if you run enough PSI, is can make it crack much faster. How much PSI do you plan on running?
I will be running 8lbs of boost until I upgrade the piping and transmission. The motor is already built from the factory so that is taken care of. I am making this car a mountain carver so loads of boost isn't needed. There were only a hand few of these kits made.
Yeah, with only running 8psi, you shouldn't have any problems with that manifold, unless it is already in bad shape or you don't weld on that WG provision properly. Post up some pictures of it when you get the chance, I am curious to see what it looks like.
Similar to this one but not as shiny.
It looks really nice! The runner design looks good as well. You will see fast spool and great top end power with that manifold and your GT28RS. It has the thinner tubing like other cheaper manifolds, but it should do alright with 8psi!
That is what I am thinking. I just need to get to Mainstream and talk to Dave if he still works there and see about the new flanges and the WG system.
Nice, well if you get Mainstream to weld the manifold for you, you shouldn't have any problems with it leaking.
Ima probably go over there Tuesday and talk to them. Start doing it piece by piece and I should have it done by the end of summer.
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