I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?

[EmminoDaGreat]

i have only re-torqued head studs ONCE and that was because some OTHER shop built the motor installed it and the heads lifted due to the heads not being torqued to 95lbs in the first place. but if you torque heads down to the right torque you shouldnt have to retorque them ever.

I retorque headstuds all the time, many times it is unnecessary, but would you rather just take the time to check, or replace the headgasket, when it lifts?

I have seen some not need it, and some need it... And there are not too many if any honda's that require 95ft/lb's to torque there head down, so I will assume you are referring to other makes..

[DirtyMechanic]

I retorque headstuds all the time, many times it is unnecessary, but would you rather just take the time to check, or replace the headgasket, when it lifts?

I have seen some not need it, and some need it... And there are not too many if any honda's that require 95ft/lb's to torque there head down, so I will assume you are referring to other makes..

i not talking about other makes. im talking about what the stud requires. just because you upgrade to studs from bolts you dont use the same torque. you torque it to whatever the fastner is rated at. like my motor L19 require 92-96 ft-lbs. so if you torque it down to the right amount the first time i dont see the point of the second time. seeing as nothing should move and loosen up because you loaded and stretched the bolt to the point where should enough tension so it cant loosen up. you should read up on out head fastners work.



http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...uetoangle.aspx

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/A...ing_heads.aspx

[EmminoDaGreat]

i not talking about other makes. im talking about what the stud requires. just because you upgrade to studs from bolts you dont use the same torque. you torque it to whatever the fastner is rated at. like my motor L19 require 92-96 ft-lbs. so if you torque it down to the right amount the first time i dont see the point of the second time. seeing as nothing should move and loosen up because you loaded and stretched the bolt to the point where should enough tension so it cant loosen up. you should read up on out head fastners work.



http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...uetoangle.aspx

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/A...ing_heads.aspx

I guess I didnt make myself clear, most HEADSTUDS (ARP) on hondas don't require 9X ft/lbs of torque, hell I think main studs are the only thing about 80ft/lbs on a honda...... I torque everything down to what they say, but like i stated before, I have seen some loosen (maybe installed wrong who knows)and i have taken ones apart that where unnecessary.... Like I said, better safe than sorry... Its understandable that all cars are different, and some are not as easy to get to which would meen it is pointless to retorque, but if you can easily access them, and its only a few hours of your time to check, y not?

[DirtyMechanic]

I guess I didnt make myself clear, most HEADSTUDS (ARP) on hondas don't require 9X ft/lbs of torque, hell I think main studs are the only thing about 80ft/lbs on a honda...... I torque everything down to what they say, but like i stated before, I have seen some loosen (maybe installed wrong who knows)and i have taken ones apart that where unnecessary.... Like I said, better safe than sorry... Its understandable that all cars are different, and some are not as easy to get to which would meen it is pointless to retorque, but if you can easily access them, and its only a few hours of your time to check, y not?

because unless you are showing signs of head lift. there is no need to. on my motor it requires the removal of the radiator, crank pulley, a/c compressor, P/S pump,, alternator, intake, intake plenum. front cover, timing chain, cam gears(all 4) and then cams. then you can get to them. i had to do this once, because at around 550whp the heads showed signs of lifting. aka coolant pooring out the overflow tank. after the re-torque, made 746whp on a DD running out of fuel. come to find out later who ever built the motor only torqued them to regular ARP2000 bolts which i think were in the 60s which is not nearly enough for the twin 20Gs.

dont get me wrong on the ft-lbs i know every motor type and even every ARP stud let it be ARP 2000 or ARP L19s they require a different torque. but if you torque them down to what they are suppose to be i have never had a head lift or HG fail. i have close to a hundred VQ motor built and all of them have seen 500whp+ easy and maybe half of them see more than 600 and 700 and a handfull above 700whp. all on a Dyno Dynamics. i have never had one of my motors fail at any point.

but i say unless your going all out and/or show signs of head lift there is no need to re-torque heads. weather it be TTY bolts or head studs. and yes i know there is that uber rare chance of something not be tightened down right and you have to go back and do it over. i did.... on the other shops bill. cha ching!!!