Results 1 to 34 of 34

Thread: I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member | IA Veteran Mad Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Gainesville
    Age
    41
    Posts
    5,001
    Rep Power
    29

    Default I'm in the prosess of rebuilding my motor. I have a few Q?

    Motor is a Boosted D16Z6 with vitra pistons, FJ distributors custom length rods, and oem bearings.
    Turbo is a TD05 14B right now but will be a 16G in a few months.

    What is the best beak in mileage-How far.

    Whats best slow easy driving or on jack stands in the garage?

    Also I plan on using Royal Purple break in oil and then Royal Purple motor oil. Has anyone used this oil and had bad results?

    Has anyone used there assimilable lube?

    thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    ^^Idiot with a car key ;) jmmx258's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Ohio asshole.
    Age
    41
    Posts
    1,972
    Rep Power
    20

    Default

    I use the SHIT out of royal purple, and LOVE it. Break in, really not that huge of a process. Few miles, nothing over half throttle. stay out of boost. Stop it, let it sit and cool. Check for leaks etc.

    Fire it up drive it for a few more miles, and you'll be good to go. Most people greatly over do their break in process. I've built every motor i've had and have never blown one due to a bad break in.

    I used Lucas Assembly lube on my last build. Drove it around the block twice, and said to hell with it and drove the shit out of it. Granted its a B20, I flogged the hell out of it 12psi for about half mile out the highway, and drove it normally for a while, jumped on it again.

    Everything is still good. Most don't do it, but after break in, I know its a bitch, but I ALWAYS re-torque my head. Heating then cooling can sometimes have the studs/bolts seating or re-seating, so they'll use a good re-torque.

  3. #3
    Virginity Cure BABY J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    everywhere & nowhere
    Age
    46
    Posts
    16,170
    Rep Power
    46

    Default

    what is proper break in time??

    - also it's called "assembly" lube. People swear by different brands, but as long as it's not a "store brand" you should be fine. If u don't know if you are using enough, add some more. RP makes great products and I'd trust their lubes even in your gfs ass.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


  4. #4
    YEAH! bRiAnMcIvIcS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Douglasville
    Age
    40
    Posts
    1,029
    Rep Power
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    what is proper break in time??

    - also it's called "assembly" lube. People swear by different brands, but as long as it's not a "store brand" you should be fine. If u don't know if you are using enough, add some more. RP makes great products and I'd trust their lubes even in your gfs ass.
    That is fuckin funny. LMAO!
    Boost under slow construction...

  5. #5
    Certified Gearhead
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Age
    47
    Posts
    160
    Rep Power
    19

    Default

    Break ins are fairly over rated. Laskey and Erl and some of the larger motor/engine builders will build a motor and put it right on the dyno for tuning. If its built/put together properly with very strict tolerances then there shouldn't be any issues at all.

  6. #6
    Stops the Resistance 81911SC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    12,599
    Rep Power
    44

    Default

    Yea, that's why Porsche recommends it in their flagship cars. First 500 miles. I wouldn't say it's overrated.

  7. #7
    ^^Idiot with a car key ;) jmmx258's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Ohio asshole.
    Age
    41
    Posts
    1,972
    Rep Power
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 81911SC
    Yea, that's why Porsche recommends it in their flagship cars. First 500 miles. I wouldn't say it's overrated.
    It's called covering the companies ass.

  8. #8
    cravin a s2k
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Cookeville, Tennessee, United States
    Age
    37
    Posts
    757
    Rep Power
    21

    Default

    break in is not necessary for more than a few miles. just to get good lubrication throughout the motor. then seat your rings, and then retorque your head... thats the nice thing about Sohc's. retorqueing the head is a breeze....

  9. #9
    IA Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Age
    42
    Posts
    44
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    Actually, over breaking in can glaze the walls of your block and cause blow by later on. Especially with a positive pressure engine.

  10. #10
    Dead or alive WANTED's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Age
    46
    Posts
    91
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    I'm not a big fan of Royal purple. I played with it for a while, and found it couldn't maintain that extra horsepower for very long. By preference, I use Mobile 1.

    Break in is funny. There are two schools of thought, break it in hard or break it in gentle. Same thing applies to bikes. In either scenario, if the engine is going to let go, it will plain and simple. No amount of gentleness will prevent that.
    Yes, all major manufacturers do say take it easy for 500+ miles and don't go over xxxx rpm, but there are two reasons for that. The first one was stated above, to cover their ass. Most people don't know how to properly break it in hard. The second is to allow the driver to get acclimated to thier vehicle. Sounds funny, I know, but some people can't get used to a new car right away, and if it's a dramatic jump in power than they're used to things could get ugly.

    I say, take it to the dyno, run it thought the RPM's, and then drive it as you normally would.
    "Horsepower is no substitute for brains, fuckers."

  11. #11
    Virginity Cure BABY J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    everywhere & nowhere
    Age
    46
    Posts
    16,170
    Rep Power
    46

    Default

    ^^ Interested in how you tested your theory about RP not maintaining power if you don't mind.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


  12. #12
    Senior Member WalkS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Middle Ga
    Posts
    1,764
    Rep Power
    23

    Default

    In your break in process, you actually need a load on the engine to force the rings against the cylinder walls to get them to seat. The purpose of the hatches in your bores is to file the rings to the proper shape to seal in the bores. Running the motor with no load on it might cause you to smooth down the bores to the point where the rings don't seat or will take longer to seat. So in other words, once you start the engine, beat on it...
    JJSPEC Racing
    "He who judges a book by its cover will soon be staring at taillights."

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JDMBrian
    In your break in process, you actually need a load on the engine to force the rings against the cylinder walls to get them to seat. The purpose of the hatches in your bores is to file the rings to the proper shape to seal in the bores. Running the motor with no load on it might cause you to smooth down the bores to the point where the rings don't seat or will take longer to seat. So in other words, once you start the engine, beat on it...
    x2..... When balanced built mine it went from the bay right on the dyno... Brought it home changed the oil... Been boosting on it ever since...
    2009 zx10R
    2005 919
    2006 xt225 dual sport

  14. #14
    FullForceMotorsports LIKEG6's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Hamilton, GA
    Age
    37
    Posts
    5,051
    Rep Power
    27

    Default

    Put it together go do some 3rd-4th gear highway pulls then come back and re-torque the head


  15. #15
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    LaFayette Ga.
    Age
    51
    Posts
    404
    Rep Power
    19

    Default

    get her runnin and while running keep eye on temp top off all all the fluids and you cut on the heater to keep from getting an air pocket the cooling system and then check for leaks while its running and then wait for the fans to come on. this means it has reached its first heat cycle and is up to operating temp as this usually takes 30 mins expecially if its cold out.. shut it off let it cool completly and thats the initial breakin. then drive in and out of boost for just a few miles to check for leaking seals on engine or turbo, then finish breaking it in like you want to drive it! it will continue to get peppier up to about 400-500 miles then taper off. and dont be alarmed if you use a little oil durring the first 500 miles.after that just change oil and TUNE.TUNE.TUNE...
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

  16. #16
    283.5°.516"(13.11mm) DirtyMechanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Alpharetta, Ga
    Posts
    4,086
    Rep Power
    26

    Default

    LOL at the re-torque of the heads and heat cycling lol i cry every time i hear someone say it lol
    The G Spot Hero

    "Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."

  17. #17
    Afghan Goober! TheChosenOne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    my momma's house
    Age
    37
    Posts
    2,206
    Rep Power
    23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyMechanic
    LOL at the re-torque of the heads and heat cycling lol i cry every time i hear someone say it lol
    Is it pointless to re-torque, or is his justification all wrong?
    Trend settin'

  18. #18
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    LaFayette Ga.
    Age
    51
    Posts
    404
    Rep Power
    19

    Default you make me laugh thinkin you know something!

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyMechanic
    LOL at the re-torque of the heads and heat cycling lol i cry every time i hear someone say it lol
    its a tech term for the real gearhead mechanics that know what there doing. and retorqing is some times required with arp headstuds, not golden eagle if you follow thier torque spec directions..i have seen more than a couple studs free up after a good hammering.
    Last edited by turbob20; 04-21-2009 at 06:26 PM.
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

  19. #19
    FLOSSIN' MR.EM1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Age
    37
    Posts
    1,377
    Rep Power
    20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20
    its a tech term for the real gearhead mechanics that know what there doing. time to go to school son...and retorqing is some times required with arp headstuds, not golden eagle if you follow thier directions.you better go the bells about to ring,lol.
    lol i dont think you know who he is.

  20. #20
    283.5°.516"(13.11mm) DirtyMechanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Alpharetta, Ga
    Posts
    4,086
    Rep Power
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbob20
    its a tech term for the real gearhead mechanics that know what there doing. and retorqing is some times required with arp headstuds, not golden eagle if you follow thier torque spec directions..i have seen more than a couple studs free up after a good hammering.
    i have only re-torqued head studs ONCE and that was because some OTHER shop built the motor installed it and the heads lifted due to the heads not being torqued to 95lbs in the first place. but if you torque heads down to the right torque you shouldnt have to retorque them ever.
    The G Spot Hero

    "Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."

  21. #21
    Accord->Evo EmminoDaGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Hiram
    Age
    41
    Posts
    10,412
    Rep Power
    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtyMechanic
    i have only re-torqued head studs ONCE and that was because some OTHER shop built the motor installed it and the heads lifted due to the heads not being torqued to 95lbs in the first place. but if you torque heads down to the right torque you shouldnt have to retorque them ever.

    I retorque headstuds all the time, many times it is unnecessary, but would you rather just take the time to check, or replace the headgasket, when it lifts?

    I have seen some not need it, and some need it... And there are not too many if any honda's that require 95ft/lb's to torque there head down, so I will assume you are referring to other makes..

    The EMPIRE

  22. #22
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    LaFayette Ga.
    Age
    51
    Posts
    404
    Rep Power
    19

    Default

    feelings mutual,you dont know me! true i dont know him! but i do know i have 21 years experiance and no engine fatalities on my part period... my record and customers speak for themselves...all i know is it works for me and no one has the right till they prove it otherwise im wrong.
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

  23. #23
    Boosted B17 !!!!!!!! 1SOL2NV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Augusta Ga
    Age
    39
    Posts
    3,563
    Rep Power
    24

    Default

    mike , i used RP in that z6 b4 you got it .. loved it .... but i love mobil one better just because its a lil cheaper and is good for higher mileage engines ... but on a fresh build .. id run RP till the first oil change then switch to mobil 1 .

    93 sol Si
    95 sol S
    95 sol Si

  24. #24
    IA MEMBER turbob20's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    LaFayette Ga.
    Age
    51
    Posts
    404
    Rep Power
    19

    Default

    heating and expansion of 2 different metals...sometimes if the stud isnt as you said correctly torqued it will work its self loose with just a nut holding it down. but if you over torque the stud tight as hell to start like on an aluminum block then as on a honda torque to say 70-73 ft pounds more on top of that as required for aftermarket head studs for honda, it might just pull slap out the threads...cast iron blocks dont have this problem.
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

  25. #25
    Accord->Evo EmminoDaGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Hiram
    Age
    41
    Posts
    10,412
    Rep Power
    33

    Default

    btw those are actually decent articles...

  26. #26
    Virginity Cure BABY J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    everywhere & nowhere
    Age
    46
    Posts
    16,170
    Rep Power
    46

    Default

    Are there even 500 VQs in the nation w/ over 500whp??? Holy shit - news to me!! Good stuff.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


  27. #27
    283.5°.516"(13.11mm) DirtyMechanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Alpharetta, Ga
    Posts
    4,086
    Rep Power
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    Are there even 500 VQs in the nation w/ over 500whp??? Holy shit - news to me!! Good stuff.
    you would be suprized.
    The G Spot Hero

    "Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."

  28. #28
    Virginity Cure BABY J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    everywhere & nowhere
    Age
    46
    Posts
    16,170
    Rep Power
    46

    Default

    I'm more suprised that you personally built close to 100 --- I guess you stay pretty busy. Good stuff man.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


  29. #29
    283.5°.516"(13.11mm) DirtyMechanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Alpharetta, Ga
    Posts
    4,086
    Rep Power
    26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    I'm more suprised that you personally built close to 100 --- I guess you stay pretty busy. Good stuff man.
    its not that much really. built it was the busiest shop on the east coast... built several a week. sometime took 3 day to straight built motors. have had several go overseas too. dubi, kuwait, panama.
    The G Spot Hero

    "Nitrous is like a hot girl with STDS, you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences."

  30. #30
    Virginity Cure BABY J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    everywhere & nowhere
    Age
    46
    Posts
    16,170
    Rep Power
    46

    Default

    That's good stuff --- when I was into Nissan's I had Brent and the guys at PFI Speed dial in my QR25DE on the Motec. The VQ was still being developed back then and I think it only powered the Maximas.
    "I'm not a gynecologist... but I'll take a look."


  31. #31
    - - - - - - - - - - ash7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Hwy 315
    Age
    42
    Posts
    5,042
    Rep Power
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Mike
    I am in the prosess of...
    what does "prosess" mean?

    -jonathan
    [/URL]
    Jesus Christ is my Savior

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
ImportAtlanta is a community of gearheads and car enthusiasts. It does not matter what kind of car or bike you drive, IA is an open community for any gearhead. Whether you're looking for advice on a performance build or posting your wheels for sale, you're welcome here!
Announcement
Welcome back to ImportAtlanta. We are currently undergoing many changes, so please report any issues you encounter with the site using the 'Contact Us' button below. Thank you!