Batlground should give you a basemap ECU. DON'T boost and you will be fine.
Batlground should give you a basemap ECU. DON'T boost and you will be fine.
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Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
do not run on stock tune unless you pull the spring out of the w/g that will keep you from boosting plumb everything leave your stock injectors in untill you get to the shop it only takes about 10 min to change them do all that you can drive it to the shop n/p it would be safer just to get a trailer and haul it and what kind of w/g and bov do you have?
In his first picture, his Downpipe comes off the drivers side of his turbo. Mine has to come off of the left side. The way they shipped it. Is that a problem, or will that be ok? Assembled thats only going to move it 3" roughly to either the left or right side. I'm sure I could cut it to still flow right, and hit the exhaust. But is that going to be a power issue?
Also Gategs: I've got 2.25" DC Exhaust header back, soon to be cat back, well test pipe back shortly lol
according to that write up, as long as I have the right ECU, and everything installed properely, I can drive my car before tuning, IE just to the place where it'll be tunned.
So that answers one question. Is there any failsafe things I could do, timing, anything, just to make it it not grenade on my way to tuning
if you need an ECU let me know, i just restocked
Thanks, What i'd really like to do is keep it obd0, tuned for a 450CC injector, with other things, i'll PM you for more details. Unless I absolutely have to do obd1
OBD0 sucks, the software support sucks, the software is buggy.
OBD1 is way better an makes for a much more efficient tune
There's what looks like Vaccuum line fitings on the waste gate, is that exactly what those are? One on top, one on the side. What I really need, would be a vacuum line diagram. For the Blow off, Boost Controller ETC. Also if those are infact vacuum lines on the waste gate as well. Thanks again, sorry to be a pain in yalls tail!
Unless you are planning on making under 200whp, a 2.25in. exhaust is going to be too small.Originally Posted by jmmx258
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Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
Ok, thanks. I'll just build my own exhaust then. What do you reccomend it be?? 2.5? or go with full 3" I plan on doing more with the motor eventually. So i'm sure thats overkill right now, but that'll save me from needing to do it later also. Thanks
2.5 atleast... 3 if you can make it happen...
just out of curiosity... how many psi are you planning on running?
Stock compression, 6-7psi MAX. Just temporary. Once I drop compression, I'm going to gather more feedback, more intel, and go from up from there.
and yes... the fittings on the wastegate are vacuum lines.... the side connects to a boost source (turbo housing etc) and the top vents to atmosphere unless you are running a boost controller...
Now, in the 3 or 4 years I have been messing around with boost, there has been one thing that it came down to every single time...do it right the first time.
MOST people boost the car, drive it for a while, get the boost bug, and then want more, so they spend more money upgrading, and the money sucks...you, on the other hand, already know you are planning on upgrading so my advice to you is this: wait. It sucks, I know, but you will be so much happier if you just wait, save up, and do it right the first time. Upgrading ends up costing so much more in the long run for many reasons...1) You have to get the car retuned each time, 2) The original part you used is now "used" and you have to take a loss on it when selling it, 3) VERY often, you can not only upgrade 1 or 2 parts, there are a few parts that work as a part of a package that will not work as part of another package.
I know you are set on boosting your car, and you should...but wait.
I spent 8 months buying parts for my first setup...I'm on my 3rd or 4th now...
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Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
Also...I don't think you mentioned what kit you got...
And, on the list I gave you previously, I forgot that you need a new clutch, too.
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Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
I have a stage 3 exedy. By looking at waht I have now, i'm sending the 370 injectors back, and getting 550's probably. That will save me for an upgrade later in boost.
If i'm tuned for that, how much harder, and more money, honestly would it be for me to buy the higher PSI spring?
Yes, I'm running a boost controller as well. How do I plumb for the controller? All it really is, is a housing, with 2 nipples and a knob on it. One nipple has an arrow, the other doesnt. It says arrow points toward waste gate actuator. Then it has a T style fitting. Its got 3 nipples on it, it also has an arrow that "points to waste gate actuator. Thats what throws me off the most
I understand what your saying also GAteg, i'm just looking for as much info as I can get.
More than anything right now, the Vacuum lines are the most confusing.
Also, there was mention of the side fitting on the waste gate, going to a positive spot. There's a pipe plug in the compressor housing, could i replace that with a fitting?
Or, in my piping, there's a fitting that almost lookcs like if u put a CAI off and it would run into the valve cover. Could I run it there?
damn i forgot all about the clutch good call my oem made it about 2 weeks at only 200hp on 5.5 psi (opps) and as i said befor you can run on stock tune with everything instaled as long as you take the waste gate spring out if you dont do that your going to blow yo sh!t
im on my 3rd setup in a year because i keep being an ******* and dont get tuned. blowing things up sucks. its soooo much money wasted. wait and get it tuned, dont be like me.
GCO Member
NRA Member
yes... remove the plug and get a brass fitting with a vacuum line nipple on it... and connect that to the side of the wastegate.... or if you have a boost controller run that fitting to a vacuum tee then run one side of the tee to the bottom of the wastegate and run the other side of the tee to the boost controller in side... then run the out side of the boost controller to the top of the wastegate.... its really pretty simple...
FYI, you should not need that boost controller for 6-7 psi...I havent heard of MANY new turbo kits that come with a smaller spring than that.
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Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
I have no clue what your saying lol. Thts why I was hoping for some sort of diagram lol!
just leave it off to reduce any urges/temptations you may have... for the sake of your engine...
I figured, they sent it with everything, I might as well use it.
Btw, its a garrett, from CXracing
then google search it... there are 1000 diagrams... including the one on Tialsports webpage....
2 seconds... search man...
A boost controller turns boost up...if you want to boost 6-7 psi and you have a 6-7 psi spring, you will not be using it and it will be pointless. so no, just because they sent it doesn't mean you might as well use it.
"Cool car" less.
Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
and really... with what you are doing i personally would just get dsm 450's and save the extra 200 you will spend on the RC's especially since you are on a budget....
Tegs your such aAlways calling me out on the technicalities...haha just messing with ya bro.
+1
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