Just ordered a complete T3/T04E kit.
I planned on running 440 Injectors and a regulator for now.
What I didnt know was whether I want Saturated, or Peak and Hold.
Also, what spark plugs you reccomend as well. I also am installing an MSD Coil and Cap.
Thanks.
This in a 90 CRX with a B16 in it. Thanks.
why not just get some dsm 450s
ATL_DA_Squad #3
STREET<3LOVE
Thanks, but I just got off the phone with RCEng. They steered me straight. In the next month or less, I"ll be boosted, dang i'm excited! lolol
Honda-Tech has a special right now, $215 shipped for Precision Saturated 450cc injectors.
id get in on that
saterated are the plug and play ones right?
yes
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2134379
High Impedance / Saturated
310cc - 55 HP per injector - $210
440cc - 77 HP per injector - $210
525cc - 85 HP per injector - $269
Low Impedance / Peak Hold
680cc - 120 HP per injector - $269
780cc - 135 HP per injector - $269
880cc - 151 HP per injector - $269
1000cc - 171 HP per injector - $289
1600cc - 275 HP per injector - $420
Boy i screwed the pooch!! I ordered RC's, and it came up over 300 or so lol
O'well.
Precision injectors suck IMO. I've seen people complain about those not flowing as much as they are ment to, so it may be hit or miss thing ... Before somebody starts arguing I'll say that this is just IMO (that they suck)
when I ordered my RCs, those came flow tested and were withing 1% of the nominal. (actually about 0.5% withing each other). I also paid about 300 shipped, but it was well worth it since I haven't had a single problem with them.
They come with flow sheets, and ive used them on multiple builds from 200whp NA hondas to 800whp EVOs with ZERO PROBLEMS.
They are just as good as RC, RC has just been around longer.
Whats a reccomended fuel pump? WIll my oem suffice for now?
Also, I ended up getting 370s. I heard that a stock ECU wouldn't support those and bigger very well. However, I'm running a spoon ECU. I was told to piggy back the system, however, I was also told that would severely diminish the value to the ecu, to the car and price wise. I would think the spoon would be fine with the bigger injectors. I'm also only runnig 7psi on stock compression for now. Until I have a little more cash saved for dropped compression, then i'll up the boost.
Also, I'm looking for a lower priced but good say 10:1 Fuel pressure regulator as well.
way off man. you just wasted your money.
Ditch the SPOON ecu, go with a CROME ecu mapped for 450cc injectors.
youll need 450cc for 7psi, 370s aint gonna cut it with a spoon ecu.
Walbro fuel pump too, OEM isnt up to the task
The car actually came with the spoon. At this point, I dont have the cash to buy a new ECU.
I ordered a Walbro 255 last night. The most I can do really is ebay, sell out right, or trade off my spoon. Dammit! lol
reps for the help
Ok, i've checked ECU arent that much money. What exactly do I need? Model p? or whatever. I'm new to the boost scene so i'm learning. Everytime I look for soemthing ir ead on it first. So i'm taking the time I dont wanna grenade my motor lol
sell the spoon ecu
My Crome ECUs run $150 for nonvtec and $170 for VTEC
COuuld you hook me up with a link to buy a ready to go ECU with vtec
I'm sorry If i didnt say. Its a 90 CRX with a B16A. Thanks!
get low temp ngk spark plugs
Coming from a Motocross backround the heat range on the plugs doesnt make a difference like most would think. Say on my dirtbike, which comes factory with an NGK CR8E plug. I switch to a CR7E plug. All that does is means that the plugs doesn't dissipate heat as fast as the 8. Meaning it stays hotter longer. ONLY the plug, nothing else.Originally Posted by isa2o3
Same thing with a 2 stroke engine. Your basic 2 stroke plug is a B8ES Lots of people run a 9 but it makes no difference. In how the bike runs.
I did plan on new plugs, I ordered a seperate coil and cap from MSD, if its that important that I run a cooler heat range plug, then I will buy them. As of right now, the same heat range plugs will be going in the car as whats in it now.
well welcome to cars and the heat range matters. and i posted in your other thread, a t4 turbo wont fit a t3 manifold. and btw a t4 turbo on a stock motor at 7psi wont do ****. you have a ton of reading to do
GCO Member
NRA Member
NGK 3330's work good for boost. And they dont cost much at all. thats what i always ran and other ppls that i knew.
...good luck...
for injectors...just do what you want brand wise...i would get atleast 450's if not 550's. i have had rc injectors numerous times with no probs..now i have precision 1000cc. they are all good. no one stays in business for making crappy products. a crome p28 will do you fine and get tuned dont waste your time on fmu's and such. as for plugs i always used ngk bkr7e's i think the part number is 6097. just listen to batlground as he is not gonna steer you wrong
I have 550's
STOP BUYING SH*T AND START READING...
You have NO idea what you are doing and you are going to waste A LOT of money.
"Cool car" less.
Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
How do you assume I bought ****?? The only things I've bought, were a 12:1 regulator, A boost Guage, Air Fuel guage, The turbo kit, a Catch Can, a Gredding timing belt b/c it's due anyways, Rods, Bearings, Crank bearings, Complete gasket and seal kit, MSD Cap and Ex. Coil, Adjustable Cam Gears, A timer, boost controller,l and Injectors.
A friend of mine built his car at a shop local to his house, they did all the tuning and what not at a resonable price, and will be helping me as well.
I assume, by this, you mean an FMU...no comment
You said you are on a tight budget so I can only assume that this is NOT a wideband...if so, you just bought disco lights...
Do you know why cam gears are adjusted?
You cannot safely boost a car with a stock ECU...
You're not boosting a f*ckin dirtbike, who cares what kind of plugs they use...you need to run colder plugs.
"Cool car" less.
Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
nice
nicely puy cj
GCO Member
NRA Member
x2Sounds like you need to do some research. Its a little more complex than you seem to be making it.
Congrats, you just spent unnecessary money and having even got the essentials down yet. BTW what "Kit" did you buy???
damn...you beat me to it cj!!!
I'm not going to hate on you for buying what you bought. No, it's not what some people would have spent their money on, but it's still bringing you closer to joining the boosted crowd. I'm not sure how long your build will last if you go down that road, but nonetheless....
Just make sure you do extensive research on what you need. Research every part before you buy it and see what people say about it from personal experience.
Good luck and I hope it all works out for you.
look man like the guy before me said im not going to hate on you but you do need to slow your role and listen to a few of these guys that have done this sh!t before and you have wasted your money on a few things your 370 or whatever the number was you need atleaste 450 or higher and forget about all the piggy back b/s not needed make sure you spend money on a name brand turbo other wise your not going to make it long enough to actually enjoy it and plugs defiantly make a huge difference i would go 2 steps colder and close the gap a lil im not sure exactly how much im sure some one on here can help on that one other thing you said something about you bought rods but were going to weight on pistons i believe you probably should weight till you got the money for them also i wouldn't break down the whole motor just to put rods in its going to cost you more in the end anyway just my opinion
I was informed to gap mine to .28 - .32
LOL...technically, you just said you were told to gap your plugs to just over a 1/4 inch :-)
What you meant to say was .028 in. - .032 in. which is absolutely correct.
"Cool car" less.
Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
http://www.superchargersonline.com/p...er=AEM-30-4100 Theres the guage I got.
Its the Garrett T3/T4 and Model is T04E.
Exhaust AR .63
Intake AR .50
Tell me exactly what else I need, I have the Turbo, Mani, Wastegate, Blowoff, Boost Controller, Down pipe, Piping, FMIC....Thats what came with the kit.
I also ordered the 370's, I can send them back.
The Greddy Timing belt, I'm due, and i'm trying to boost, its worth the money.
Adjustable cam gears, I'm sure those will make tuning easier in the end, or are necessary?
the A/F guage.
Boost Guage.
The Regulator.
255 Walbro.
Other items as well, i'm not sure i'd have to check the boxes.
Your compressor is a little small. I would look for something with a .63/.60 compressor and exhaust.
That gauge will work fine.
The injectors depend on your power goals, but I can guarantee that 370's are too small.
The cam gears are not necessary at all.
You keep saying a regulator...Are you talking about a fuel pressure regulator or an FMU? If you are referring to an FPR, that's fine, you need that, along with a fuel pressure gauge (nothing fancy, just something for under the hood to set fuel pressure). If you are referring to an FMU, that is wrong in so many ways, but you can research why.
The Walbro 255 is right.
You also need oil feed/return lines and hardware for both.
You NEED colder plugs...I use NKG 3330, which I BELIEVE are BCPR7ES.
And after all this, you need some management...hondata, chrome, neptune, AEM, or something. I highly recommend Hondata.
"Cool car" less.
Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
I'll go with the colder plugs, it just doesnt read right to me, but obviously you have more experience than I do.
By limited budget, i'm already at about 2.5k with everything. I planned on going with an ECU from Battlegrounds.
I meant Fuel Pressure Regulator. I also planned on going and picking up a water pump shortly before I do the install.
The install I can do all on my own. With out issue...well almost. My box got wet, so all my directions got ruined. You'd have thought they'd put them in a plastic bag but they didnt. Do you or anybody else know where I can find an install diagram, or directions?
I know ALL the bolt on stuff, Except the wastegate, I have no idea how that worked, it came with teh valve seat, and 2 like..spacers. I assume that the spacers are for the waste gate exhaust, but i'm not sure on that. Plus, I dont know how the waste gate bolts to the mani exactly. as in, does one of those spacer have to go in there, or does it bolt directly to it, with the valve seat of course.
Thanks. There was more, but I got lost lol
complete step by step with pics
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795
If you are changing your timing belt, you should also change your water pump, tensioner, and your spring.
You also need an exhaust for this project, unless you are going to be running an open down pipe.
A lot of people will say that your Honda ignition system will be fine, I disagree and believe that for over 300whp or so, you should upgrade the ignition system.
"Cool car" less.
Anti-Nutswingers Crew - Member # 001
Oh, and it also came with the oil feed line, and fitting that'll accept the Sensor, feed line, and an eventual oil pressure guage.
ALso, I wanted to ask if there was a way I could get this thing installed, and drive it with very little to no tuning. ONLY about 2 hours from my house where the complete tuning will be done. Like, Could I just not plumb it into the intake just to get it where its going, as long as I have the oil lines installed, and the injectors not installed until tuned.
Thanks
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