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Thread: My brother's build

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    Talking My brother's build

    B18c1 81.25 mm-81.5mm bore? Depending on condition of cylinder walls, block guard 12:1 Compression ratio Cp's ( coated tops and skirts). Dangerously,sp lightened Eagle H beams Scott's machine will do all machine work. Fully ported and polished GSR head, polished bowls etc, 1 mm over sized intake valves, 3 angle valve grind. Skunk pro 2's. Super tech valves, springs and retainers I ported and worked the head, it it benched better than my Allaniz pr3 from my first 600 whp SI! I am very proud of my work. AEBS intake manifold, opened up to 67 mm with matching throttle body, Rage/Hytech replica header from Mike, with 2.75 mandrel bent piping to apexi n1 turbo can. 9lbs. flywheel. Tuned on Chrome pro, (Scotty) With a mild amount of spray, maybe 75-100 wet. When he get's the extra cash we will convert to some Jenvey/TWM itb's What do you guys think it will do on the motor? Discuss....... Thanks for any and all input.

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    After seeing Battlegrounds dyno of that bone stock gsr with Mike's rage header doing 185 whp, he wants to do this build.

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    Here are some pics of my head work on another member's GSR head from this forum.
    http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/gsrhead2.jpg
    http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...t/DSCN1141.jpg

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    This is a Mase tuned setup that I was going to go for, but just wanted the 12.0 c/r and pro 2's instead of the Jun's. The jun 3's are just so damn proven.




    gsr block
    cp 11.5 itr pistons 81.5mm bore
    eagle rods
    gsr 87mm crank
    mugen headgasket

    endyn ported p72 head
    supertech flat valves
    port matched skunk2 mani
    port matched maxbore tb
    jun3 cams
    skunk2 gears
    hytech header
    apexi ws2 exhaust


    overall about 12.4cr exact #'s were 223whp 137tq I may run the same piston's to match his c/r 12.5 is max. I want to go for pump gas

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    so who is deciding to do this? and when are you gonna assemble the short block? and who's head was that?
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    so who is deciding to do this? and when are you gonna assemble the short block? and who's head was that?
    The China man, he is leaving the dark side ? He just wants an all motor setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    so who is deciding to do this? and when are you gonna assemble the short block? and who's head was that?
    ONe of the pics should have been of the work I did on your GSR head.

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    i thought so, but wasnt sure. im having a meet this thursday if you wanna come. oh and dad said no
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    i thought so, but wasnt sure. im having a meet this thursday if you wanna come. oh and dad said no
    I got it locked it's coo. I can't make it to the meet. Sorry bro.

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    Yeah, I have been told that by every last person that knows all-motor this morning. Well, good thing he is in the purchasing stage. Stock valves always worked for me anyways

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    rollin on eVos all-mota's Avatar
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    if the head has already has oversize valve seats installed just sink the valves

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2.0 under pressure
    overall about 12.4cr exact #'s were 223whp 137tq I may run the same piston's to match his c/r 12.5 is max. I want to go for pump gas
    that torque seems really low for the HP

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    Quote Originally Posted by smote
    that torque seems really low for the HP
    I have the dyno sheet if you want, this peaked my interest as well. Well noted MR. Smote. I know that you know your all motor **** like I know my turbo stuff. I thought tq. should be in the mid 145's to 151. But then again I am turbo guy.

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    It is probably the Jun 3's they always shine in peak whp and not in mid range or tq. What do think?

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    Quote Originally Posted by all-mota
    if the head has already has oversize valve seats installed just sink the valves
    I haven't started the head yet . Just gonna go with Super tech flats at stock diameter. Fly cut the piston's for good area and frontal flame out when he spray's it. It works in my turbo setups to keep egt's down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
    i think the oversized intake valves are overkill, unless hes shooting for 250whp its not needed and more than likely its asking for trouble with the PRO2 cams when it comes to valve to valve clearance.

    I had almost no room with stock ferrea valves an my PRO3s just for reference.

    Other than that it sounds solid.

    You'll be the first to know what it puts down and what the final build specs. are. I know the turbo side of things, but you and Dyno/Len schooled me in what I know about true N/A power. Not nut swinging, just honest. You know that I can build fast ass cars blind folded with a lawn chair tied to my back lol. I just use boost and flow, head work etc. I want Scotty to tune it at your shop. Is that possible. Ed already has two boosted motors to tune for me within two months. Damn, I am having fun on vacation doing all this ****. I should be down at the beach, but it is just to damn cold. TTYL. Save my header or else Mike lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smote
    that torque seems really low for the HP
    With that 100 shot, bet that tq. gets up there lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    i thought so, but wasnt sure. im having a meet this thursday if you wanna come. oh and dad said no

    Has a 900 whp capable motor, built by He and I, with the help of my 2.5 year old son lol. He helped intall the oil pan studs lol. Remember that Pat? That was too damn cute. P.S. My motor is back from Laksey/Benson. I will email you pics 83 mm bore, line bored oringed and flawless. The final bore is the finest I have ever seen, the cross hatches look diamond cut FTW!

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    Oh yeah, I finished my sheet metal intake manifold. 80 mm Tb lol. I have to get the Mustang adapter and run that TB I showed you from H-T. 4 injector boss's, 37 degree angle with 4 n02 boss's at 17 degree's on bottom. I may try to make another one to try on your motor just to see the gains if any over your B.A. Intake mani/TB setup.

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    Finished my head too, flowed it 306 cfm @.500 But Rick's bench flows a little high, so I am thinkinh 295-300 cfm true flow. Not much different than your's but I re-roughed the intake ports for better atomizatiom< sp.

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    mine flowed 305 didnt it? i cant remember. yeah i also remember noah throwing my head studs into the old block :P. we had to give him the stock head studs to **** around with. those arps are not cheap. why cant you make the meet?
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    mine flowed 305 didnt it? i cant remember. yeah i also remember noah throwing my head studs into the old block :P. we had to give him the stock head studs to **** around with. those arps are not cheap. why cant you make the meet?



    Your head did flow the same @ .500, like I said it's identical to yours except I roughed up the in take lower slabs for better atomization< sp for the flat angle that my injectors are postioned. Sheet metal intake manifold, hand fabricated by me FTW!

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    I have to meet with my attorney on that day and other's next week. I will see what I can do though.

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    if he's going to go that far into it he should consider having the block sleeved and bored to 84 or 85 mm. That would increase displacement (to around 2.0L) without lengthening the stroke (which would lower the maximum rpm that the engine could safely run).
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotoronly
    if he's going to go that far into it he should consider having the block sleeved and bored to 84 or 85 mm. That would increase displacement (to around 2.0L) without lengthening the stroke (which would lower the maximum rpm that the engine could safely run).


    Yep, but he doesn't want to spend the money. He has a lot of other things going on as far as money. We have an extra GSR block that we can send out to get sleeved later, then just buy new piston's. All the rest of the work and mods will already be done, just swap the block out later's

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    if i ever end up needing a rebuild, ill get mine bored to 85 and sell it to him so i can get a new one.
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    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    if i ever end up needing a rebuild, ill get mine bored to 85 and sell it to him so i can get a new one.
    do you have a sleeved block? A stock GSR block is only good for 81.5mm. To go higher than that, you have to get the block sleeved. Golden eagle sleeves are good up to 86mm or so if I remember correctly.
    Land Rover LR3 HSE

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    He has an 84.5 mm AEBS block

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    82mm is very possible on stock sleeves, just for a factory rebuild.

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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotoronly
    do you have a sleeved block? A stock GSR block is only good for 81.5mm. To go higher than that, you have to get the block sleeved. Golden eagle sleeves are good up to 86mm or so if I remember correctly.
    nah, stock sleeves. i heard they work great at 85mm!
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    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588
    nah, stock sleeves. i heard they work great at 85mm!
    lolol stock B20 sleeves will go to 85mm. I have never heard of a B18C1 going past 82mm (and that was with a block guard)
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2.0 under pressure
    He has an 84.5 mm AEBS block
    ^^^^^^
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    stock sleeves can go 82mm, ask DA_UNKNOWN, we did that 2 years ago on his ITR engine.

    For a race application you can go 83mm on stock sleeves but dont expect it to last maybe a few hundred miles.

    Most people do 81.5mm thats safe, and id something goes worng you can move to 82mm.

    Sleeves you can go 85mm on a street car, 85.5 or 86 on a race motor.

    Turbo guys even less than that.

    Instead of sleeving pick up a b20 block, half the money, same displacement. For NA spplications they are fine.


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    im boosted. 84.5mm aebs block
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    Lol, this went astray.< SP.

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    **** happens. rofl
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