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Thread: b18 ?'s

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    Default b18 ?'s

    I'm looking at picking up a civic with a b18 swap. It will be all motor as I dont have a huge budget. I dont know jack about this motor, so what's the good and bad points of it. What power can I expect to squeeze out of it without boost? And how reliable will it be? It's gonna be taken care of, I know cars, but a Jeep I6 is the only motor I have a lot of experience with so this stuff is new to me.

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    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    Wbat model is the B18? I am assuming B18A or B18B (LS engine). The B18C1 is the GSR engine, and the B18C5 is the type R engine.

    With the non-vtec head you can expect to make around 140whp with bolt ons. With the addition of a vtec head (LS/VTEC conversion) you can expect to make around 165+whp with basic bolt ons and a tune.

    If you dont open the engine up, it will be very reliable. If you swap heads and run higher rpm's, the reliability will go down. I have seen LS/VTEC's last 30k miles, and I have seen them last 30 miles.

    If you want a reliable engine on a low budget, get a good header (hytech or similar style, no DC sh!t), a good intake, a catback, a good tune, and maybe a set of cams.
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    So only the c1/c5 have VTEC? What's the cost of swapping in a VTEC head? I'll do it myself, so what head would be the best option?

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    Boosted B17 !!!!!!!! 1SOL2NV's Avatar
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    b17a1 .. early model GSR ..... kinda rare to see anymore .. but its vtec . .... but yes the c1/c5 is only b18's that are vtec and they get pricy fast .

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    Senior Member SE-Rious©'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SOL2NV
    b17a1 .. early model GSR ..... kinda rare to see anymore .. but its vtec . .... but yes the c1/c5 is only b18's that are vtec and they get pricy fast .
    I remember we hit up JHuT and got a b18c swap for less than $1500.it was auto but still alot of people try to get that for a full obd-0 b16 swap.talk about a killer deal.



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    Quote Originally Posted by type_r
    I'm looking at picking up a civic with a b18 swap. It will be all motor as I dont have a huge budget. I dont know jack about this motor, so what's the good and bad points of it. What power can I expect to squeeze out of it without boost? And how reliable will it be? It's gonna be taken care of, I know cars, but a Jeep I6 is the only motor I have a lot of experience with so this stuff is new to me.
    So, is it B18A or B18B?

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    Senior Member SL65AMG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by type_r
    I'm looking at picking up a civic with a b18 swap. It will be all motor as I dont have a huge budget. I dont know jack about this motor, so what's the good and bad points of it. What power can I expect to squeeze out of it without boost? And how reliable will it be? It's gonna be taken care of, I know cars, but a Jeep I6 is the only motor I have a lot of experience with so this stuff is new to me.

    if you don't have a huge budget all-motor isn't the way to go.... all-motor is expensive as ****..... unless you're talking bolt-ons
    EF SQUAD FTMFW!!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by type_r
    I'm looking at picking up a civic with a b18 swap. It will be all motor as I dont have a huge budget. I dont know jack about this motor, so what's the good and bad points of it. What power can I expect to squeeze out of it without boost? And how reliable will it be? It's gonna be taken care of, I know cars, but a Jeep I6 is the only motor I have a lot of experience with so this stuff is new to me.
    If it is an LS motor, the cons are that it wont make much power ALL MOTOR.

    Its a decent motor, good starting point. You would be better off boosting it that going all motor unless you want to do an LSVTEC


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    It is an LS, b18b. So I should just boost the thing if I can? Should I do that or make it lsVTEC first?

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    Your Moms Moderattor
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    B16s are great motors too, JDM B16A fairly easy to get a little less expensive then GSR, slightly less power, and is actually really fun to drive.

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    Jay_Bird JayL's Avatar
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    boost it!!!



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    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProfiteer
    B16s are great motors too, JDM B16A fairly easy to get a little less expensive then GSR, slightly less power, and is actually really fun to drive.
    they are cheaper, but the B18B has a hell of a lot more torque. Going to a B16A from a B18B would be a very noticeable difference at any rpm under 5k or so. I have seen a stock B18B from jarco make 140whp (with just I/H/E). A stock B16A wouldn't make that much more (maybe 150whp or so without a tune)
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    i like hubcaps madwick's Avatar
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    pull the motor! drop in a k24 block (new accord) with a k20 head (rsx type-r)! send the block to a machine shop to get re sleeved at 90mm. order from eagle some 90mm 9:1 comp pistons stock crank and rods. purchase some skunk2 turbo type-r rsx cams. complete t28 turbo kit from greddy. take it to a shop to tune it.

    THEN RIDE THE F*CK OUT!!!!

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    Why so serious? greasemunkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by allmotoronly
    they are cheaper, but the B18B has a hell of a lot more torque. Going to a B16A from a B18B would be a very noticeable difference at any rpm under 5k or so. I have seen a stock B18B from jarco make 140whp (with just I/H/E). A stock B16A wouldn't make that much more (maybe 150whp or so without a tune)
    huh? b16a would be lucky to put down 130-140...the ls torque line is what differs from most, that is I mean that you even have any, ive seen b16a's with minor bolt ons put 98wtq you will be looking at 120-30ish throughout the rpms with the ls

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    got vtec? YakuzaCiviC's Avatar
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    I like the LS/VTEC setup i've been running since spring of last year. I use it as a daily driver (60miles round trip) and im really please with the power when i need it although i like boost as well.. i guess it would really come down to what you can afford, prefer and who installs it.

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    IA Original Slinger DC2NR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madwick
    pull the motor! drop in a k24 block (new accord) with a k20 head (rsx type-r)! send the block to a machine shop to get re sleeved at 90mm. order from eagle some 90mm 9:1 comp pistons stock crank and rods. purchase some skunk2 turbo type-r rsx cams. complete t28 turbo kit from greddy. take it to a shop to tune it.

    THEN RIDE THE F*CK OUT!!!!
    But first make sure you have a $10,000 budget.

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    Senior Member HatchHero's Avatar
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    thats crazy that the LS is the motor of choice to boost considering its a open deck configuration.. i believe the head is also open rather than closed

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    Senior Member HatchHero's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DC2NR
    But first make sure you have a $10,000 budget.

    10 stacks would be about rite

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    BEESH!!! jville95's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madwick
    pull the motor! drop in a k24 block (new accord) with a k20 head (rsx type-r)! send the block to a machine shop to get re sleeved at 90mm. order from eagle some 90mm 9:1 comp pistons stock crank and rods. purchase some skunk2 turbo type-r rsx cams. complete t28 turbo kit from greddy. take it to a shop to tune it.

    THEN RIDE THE F*CK OUT!!!!

    I like this guy!!

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    Senior Member 9ussy's Avatar
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    just get a gsr swap and you'll be straight...

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    Next adventure is... Just_CHill's Avatar
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    I would find a cheap single cam to swap into the car and take your time on the LS. That way you will have a little time to do a little research and to think about what you really want out of your build.

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    E-Thug SouthSide Tay's Avatar
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    GO BOOST!!! peice a turbo kit together and have a 200+ whp car on 7-9 psi and drive the shiit outta it.
    - SouthSide Tay

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    sleeve it... then boost it
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    RPM = Ruins People's Motors

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    B20 wat u want to do JDMB20's Avatar
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    ls/vtec boosted makes some good power
    ONE DAY

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    My 92 teg b18a1 with 7lb flywheel, exedy clutch, full skunk 2 exhaust, ebay intake made 155whp with few things that could have been tweaked to fix it to make a lil more but thats pretty good i thought. The b18 motor itself is a decent motor for boost. ive heard people saying the motor itself can only get about 400hp without internal work. Dont know if I would try it. It wont take much to get the car moving pretty good. So even 300 350 hp ur going to get that car going quick. My teg ran around a 15.0 i think in the 1/4. others told me faster idk. my point its over a sec drop in the 1/4 mile with only 155whp. If your making 300 or so you might be around 13 something depending on driver and tires.
    Last edited by fightrice; 05-06-2008 at 08:08 AM.

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