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Thread: Another b16 build question

  1. #1
    ek hatch
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    Default Another b16 build question

    Whats up yall, i know this is a question asked alot but i was just wantin sum input on sum better ways to build my b16. Im tired of learnin tha hard way, i dumped to much money in my ls/vtec and blew it up.

    hears what i got in mind
    b16 block
    b16 rods
    arp rod bolts
    ctr pistons

    b16 head
    port n polish

    thish is where i dont know what to do. If i use ctr cams should i upgrade the valve train or will i be ok. Im already going to put ferrera valves in.

    if not ctr cams then what
    what type of Intake Manifold

    If anyones done a similar build what kind of #s did it put down or 1/4 times

    97ek hatch

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    Asian Persuasion KevinT707's Avatar
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    I'm sure the stock B16 valvetrain will handle just CTR cams but springs/retainers are fairly inexpensive (a few hundred) so just go ahead & upgrade. For intake manifold I like the AEBS, & I'm thinking with all that you'll probably make 160 WHP +/- 5.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinT707
    I'm sure the stock B16 valvetrain will handle just CTR cams but springs/retainers are fairly inexpensive (a few hundred) so just go ahead & upgrade. For intake manifold I like the AEBS, & I'm thinking with all that you'll probably make 160 WHP +/- 5.

    thanks man, +reps for you
    97ek hatch

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    THERE CAN B ONLY ONE BTEC's Avatar
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    i wouldnt worry about changing the rod bolts bc b16 bolts are strong as hell from the factory. i mean if ur planning on revving to 10k or something then do it but i ran my stock b16 to 9k a few times with no problems. To know what kinda power ur gonna make still determines on what kinda header, exhaust and tuning ur gonna have as well. Id go with a header with a 2 1/2 inch collecter and full 2 1/2 in exhaust (mandrel bent piping and a good flowing muffler). AEBS has been recommended by vteckidd alot and i like the edlebrock manifold so either should do well.

    With all of that u better be in the high 13's atleast. If not lemme borrow ur car and ill get it there for you. lol!!!!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BTEC
    i wouldnt worry about changing the rod bolts bc b16 bolts are strong as hell from the factory. i mean if ur planning on revving to 10k or something then do it but i ran my stock b16 to 9k a few times with no problems. To know what kinda power ur gonna make still determines on what kinda header, exhaust and tuning ur gonna have as well. Id go with a header with a 2 1/2 inch collecter and full 2 1/2 in exhaust (mandrel bent piping and a good flowing muffler). AEBS has been recommended by vteckidd alot and i like the edlebrock manifold so either should do well.

    With all of that u better be in the high 13's atleast. If not lemme borrow ur car and ill get it there for you. lol!!!!
    , yea my old b16a2 hit a 15 flat like it sat so i hope something with some minor changes would turn something like that. iv got a megan header and a full header back 2 1/2 megan exhaust. +reps for u
    97ek hatch

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    Shit after my timing belt popped, I had no choice but to change the whole valvetrain. Ferrea Valve stems, valve seals, valve keepers, valves , but also needed to adjust the clearance between the cams and the valves.


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    Also forgot to say that the cams were upgraded


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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM_EK4
    Also forgot to say that the cams were upgraded
    what kinda cams, how much did it cost u to uprade your valve train
    97ek hatch

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    Buddy Club Pro Spec III, and the valvetrain.... got the valves directly from the company off of Ebay for a damn good price, and everything else I just got from nopi, so the prices are there for you to see because I can't name it off the top of my head.


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    Level IIIa? LOL. allmotoronly's Avatar
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    I would definitely upgrade the valve springs and retainers if you are running CTR cams. To fully maximize the HP gain, you will want to be able to rev to at least 8600rpm like the B16B. I would also recommend the ARP rod bolts for anything over 8500rpm as well. You do have to retorque APR bolts after you break the engine in (or after a few hundred miles), but you only have to do it once (atleast thats what I do). Or, considering that this will cost you close to $2k, why dont you just buy a different engine? For $2k you can get a JDM F20B. It is virtually the same engine as the jdm H22A type S with steel sleeves, slightly smaller pistons and a shorter stroke. It has 200hp stock, and is good for about 165whp, which is about what you will get out of a B16A built to the specs you have listed. The main advantage is that it will be a lot more reliable than an engine that has been rebuilt.
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    Screw CTR cams if you want a more potent build. You're already short in the displacement arena. Either go SERIOUS w/ the cams/header/head, or build another B18 the right way - ur pissing in the wind w/ a B16 using ANY oem cam - for real...
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    If you want a high HP All-Motor setup then you're not going to reach it with OEM cams. But anywho, keep in mind the Edelbrock Victor-X sucks on all-motor setups .. I read it in a comparison in a magazine

    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    Screw CTR cams if you want a more potent build. You're already short in the displacement arena. Either go SERIOUS w/ the cams/header/head, or build another B18 the right way - ur pissing in the wind w/ a B16 using ANY oem cam - for real...
    Yeah true, either go big or go home.

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    IMO build a B18 - screw the B16, keep it as a back-up block if u have that option.

    Of you have your heart set on a B16 build that is decent - build a 11:5 CR B16 w/ a P/P head, decent header, a bottle, and call it a day. You won't be anyhere near the King Daddy, but it will surprise a lot of people and be reliable/fun.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABY J
    IMO build a B18 - screw the B16, keep it as a back-up block if u have that option.

    Of you have your heart set on a B16 build that is decent - build a 11:5 CR B16 w/ a P/P head, decent header, a bottle, and call it a day. You won't be anyhere near the King Daddy, but it will surprise a lot of people and be reliable/fun.
    *Wondering what I would do with a bottle*


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    First decide if you want torque or a high reving screamer. Get the ARP rod bolts they are cheep insurence. CTR pistons with high comp valves will give you 12:1 compression. I dosen't matter if you do cams now or later always install a good set of valve springs and retainers. A skunk2 intake manifold will serve you fine avoid cheep imatations. Do not cheep out on the header either get one from Mike at battleground or buy a hytech. Make your cam decision based on what engine management you are going to use. Just to let you know with the right parts and the right builder a B16 can make good power. Mine makes 192 whp on a dynopak I also use a 4.78 final drive to overcome the torque issue

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    good ideas you guys,keep em comin This is gonna be my dd so i want sumthin thats gonna be reliable and sumthin that will have a lil get up. And i dont really want to dump a a$$ load in it
    97ek hatch

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