Rebuild check list
well im going to be rebuilding my gsr and just wanted to make sure i got everything i need. so if im missing anything, let me know and ill add it to the list. im keeping stock bore and stock compression:
OEM gsr pistons
re use stock rods - check
arp rod bolts
oem rod bearings
cometic 81mm thicker headgasket
arp head studs
hondata intake manifold gasket - check
felpro oil pan gasket - check
skunk2 cam seal - check
blox or skunk2 IM
valve cover breather/catch can - check
Last edited by patrick4588; 08-27-2007 at 02:52 PM.
if you are doing a rebuild be sure to replace all gaskets and seals also to give you a completely fresh motor
do those pistons have piston rings also?
and just to be sure I would bore .25 over on the stock block to be sure the cylinder walls are perfect, which would mean you need larger pistons
yeah the pistons come with the rings and pins etc... which gaskets would i need to replace. i had the main seal done last summer. ill be getting new valve cover gasket and tube seals though. cam seal is pretty new too. im hoping to keep the stock bore so i wont have to spend the money to get it bored, but if it needs it, ill definitely get it done. just have to see when i pull it apart
you forgot aftermarket intake manifold, throttlebody, sleeved block, and use honda bearings......i seriously think that you are making a mistake by not sleeving it. regardless of weather or not you want 11ty million hp you should sleeve it. you will be glad you did later on......or you could be pissed later on when you crack a sleeve. you already saw what happened to cj's shit
yeah i did. and believe me, if i could afford it, it would definitely be sleeved. also, this is my daily, so i cant wait for it to be shipped off and sleeved. need it back asap. im gonna upgrade the IM and TB when i can afford it. my TB is port matched to the IM right now. and why oem bearings over acl?
These you should do:
You should bore it out so you have true bore and use larger pistons (I went with 81.5mm CP 9.8:1)
Micropolish the crank and balance it
ACL main bearings
Deck the block
Resurface the head
I suggest if you have money do these as well:
New OEM oil pump
New OEM water pump
New OEM timing belt
New OEM rear main seal (you said you did it recently so skip it)
New timing belt tensioner pulley
D300s + MB-D10 |D90 + MB-D80 | 35mm f1.8G | 50mm f1.4D | 85mm f1.4D | 18-200mm VRII | 80-200mm f2.8D 2 rings| Tokina 100mm f2.8 Macro | Tokina 11-16 f2.8 | Kenko 2x TC | SU-800 | 2 x SB-R200 | SB-600 | SB-900 | Cybersync
info above is about the best yet
why micro polish and balance the crank? i thought that was a waste of money and the factory one was fine?
i understand its your dd but man seriously if you cant afford to play you need to hang it up till you have the money. if you toss those after market rods and pistons in and then crack a sleeve and mess them up you are really gonna be hurting. the only reason why i say get oem bearings is becuase thats what most everyone i have talked to uses. there are just somethings that i have always heard you need to go oem with.Originally Posted by patrick4588
if i rebuild the motor and get it tuned properly, then i shouldnt have any problems with the sleeves cracking at that low hp. cj had a full 2.25" exhaust and that created a ton of backpressure and heat. thats why his messed up. he made 3 wot pulls back to back to back and thats what did him in.
That explosion of white smoke will be forever burned into my memory...
it shouldnt have had any probs with ringlands either but it did. i had a buddy with an ls/vtec that may have been making 180whp that cracked 2 sleeves all motor ont he break-in ride home. its not a matter running low or high hp...its a matter of running any amount of hp after going into a motor and leaving stock parts that can break very easily. you can do as you please with your money and your motor. but you are setting your self up for heartache. im not really trying to jump in your shit about this but i just dont understand why the hell you wouldnt take care of all the parts while you are in there. it makes no sense to me to take the motor apart, half ass build it, and slap it together only to hope it holds. you may be better off slapping some used p72's in there untill you have the money saved to do it right. when you were in the land of intakes and headers it was semi-ok to skimp on the important stuff..but you are in big boy toy land now. it needs to be done right. im telling you this as a freind, patrick, because you are steady on your way to becoming one of those stories ppl tell when the question pops up about why or why not you shold be sleeving a motor. i have told ppl a million times..do it right the first time not the second, third, or fourth time. there is a reason why i have had the same stock gsr motor and 2 different turbo set-ups on it and it still runs strong.....just make sure you know what you are doing before you get into a money pit.
i would get all new gskts and while the head is off maybe new valve seals and honda bearings along with oil pump water pump timing belt and thermostat and plugs, and if you dont use honda bearings i would plastiguage the acls to check tolerances,use a feeler guage for ring clearances also check valve lash before start up
You only live once, maybe twice if you use the e-brake!
this is my old gsr you dont want this to happen to you
JJSPEC.COM
what reason would that be? you yourself said how you are still on a basemap after 6 months and you beat the shit out of your car. id say you are lucky more than anything else. and yeah i still agree that sleeves is a very good idea. i just dont have the bread for it. if you are saying its unsafe to run any amount of horsepower, then why not get the block sleeved on any rebuild? the only reason your buddy with 180whp would have cracked a sleeve is a bad tune. he must have detonated a lot and leaned out or something. i have never heard of anyone cracking a sleeve on that low of hp. if you are going to sleeve it, why not just get a dart block? there is always something else you can do to your motor. im not building this car to be a drag car. it wont ever see 400+ horsepower on these pistons. this will be a nice daily setup that i can take to the track every now and then. i am on 550cc injectors, and im not changing them out anytime soon. i will be shooting for the exact same horspower level i was before i blew it. the forged pistons are better than cast, and thats all this rebuild really is. a stock rebuild with better pistons and rods.
ssssoooooo why upgrade????????
I say screw the build and put your money into an amazing tune
but at the same time
I say save your money until you can do it the right way the first time
in the end it's your call
i am very lucky to have a motor that is still holding up to the task of boosting it like i am. but if anything happens and i have to go in the motor you can bet your ass im sleeving it. there is no way in hell i am pulling my motor, taking it completely apart, putting some rods and pistons in, and putting it back together.....i would be cheating myself.
this is not the hobby to have if you dont have the "bread" for it. its expensive enough toying with cars at a beginner level....when you get to where you are now you need to have funds. you gotta pay to play.
all im saying is that while you are in there you need to sleeve it. a sleeve can crack at any hp level. it typically happens at higher levels but it can happen at lower levels....and dont you think that after you build this to stock specs with stronger pistons and rods you are gonna be putting out about the same power?? which would be what?...300-325whp??? you say pistons are not gonna give..guess whats next in line.....why get the block sleeved on any rebuild...becuase you are in there and its very good preventative maintenance. you know you are building a motor that is gonna get beat on. you know you are building a motor that is gonna be used like it was never intended to be used. regardless of it being a dd or a race car..you are gonna beat on it...and as you have already found out it only takes one time to break something. why even set yourself up for a disaster? if you were rebuilding your moms car i say do whatever you want..toss autozone pistons in there and call it a day. but you are building a car that is gonna be at the track occationally, will see some street racing action (you cant deny any of that as i have heard of numerous races on the street with you involved), and overall is gonna get beat on pretty regular....you need the sleeves.
definately do it right the first time.....but it is your call....you do what you gotta do. stock sleeves will hold alot of power on a very good tune. you may never crack one..or you may crack one the day you crank it up for the first time. i hope it all works out for you becuase i would hate to have to say i told you so after you crack a sleeve.
amen
richard cracked a sleeve in his gsr on the way back from atlanta. he had STOCK pistons and rods and block guard.
when i built my sohc i wish i would have done it the right way the first time. i had to rebuild that motor a couple of times, and its no fun when stuff starts breaking.....
how much is it to sleeve a block
H22Turbo DC4 from a roll
typically your block as a core and ~$850 give or take
$850 is not alot of money at all......... i wouldnt let $850 stop me from building my motor right the first time
if i sleeved a block, i wouldnt send mine off, i would try to buy one already sleeved. i need quick turn around. im trying to get a second job right now, and if i scoop one ill sleeve it.
i wouldnt try to deny street racing... i do it occasionally, and so do you.
so your going to spend what around $1000 or more building your motor with out sleeving it????? then you are going to get a sleeved block and have to buy new bigger pistons??
sounds like a waste of money to me. you should just rebuild the motor you have now with stock internals. then you will have a car to drive to work and school or whatever and you will be able to take time building the sleeved block the right way.
that what i have been trying to do...but $1200 for a block is a little rough. i would rather wait a month or spend the $3000 to get a built, balanced and blueprinted block from laskey racing
im all about it....and its all the more reason to sleeve the block. the only reason i have not done it to my motor is becuase its still running like a champ...even though it smokes...it holds the boost and keeps pulling.
you also said you went liks 150 mph.that would probably do a number on your motor. if your car could go that fast it would take so long to get there and you would be sitting pretty high in rpms for a long time.. thats probably what was the begining of the destruction of your motor
yeah im sure that had something to do with it. i know boosting in fifth gear causes the most stress. live and learn. so how much would rebuilding the motor with stock internals cost?
the piston shit from acura:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...t&ListAll=Part
or slap some used p72 pistons in it..thats what i would do. im not all about using used parts but in a case when you have no money and you only do it to get by....find used pistons and buy a ring set from honda...you dont have to file them, get some bearings, run a hone in there and slap it together. it will be way cheaper than putting eagle rods in, with whatever pistons, and then fucking them up and buying them again.
your pistons might still be good
well if replacement pistons are only 50 bucks id just as well get new ones. i can swing 200 bucks on a rebuild tomorrow...
did you ever get the head pulled? it takes like 30 minutes
dont forget about rings and bearings. also you need to know what bore you have. since you were rebuilt you may have over sized pistons...make sure you check that
im pulling the head off tomorrow. ill call sutton acura tomorrow and see if they have the pistons/rings/bearings/headgasket i need in stock.
pull the head before you buy that stuff though. its most likely piston damage but it would suck to order that shit and find that you didnt need to. you will know for sure if its fucked in there
yeah for sure.
updated the list
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