Quote Originally Posted by Moseley View Post
no offense mike but I'm a little skeptical of this 300whp number. making 300whp requires a certain amount of wtq at a certain rpm. so take your pick:

300whp = 210wtq @ 7500
300whp = 196wtq @ 8000
300whp = 185wtq @ 8500
300whp = 175wtq @ 9000

looking at those numbers it is obvious that the easiest way to make 300whp with a honda is to rev it to 9k and still be making at least 175wtq at that rpm. But when stroke, rod length, or compression are changed... the cam requirement of the engine is changed also. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't expect a cam that makes 250whp on a stock stroke, to be worth a damn on a bottom end with different geometry, no matter how awesome the bottom end is, you might only see 5-10whp. I also hope you aren't planning on the 196wtq @ 8000 route... because that would be more VE than a cammed K20, and with a longer stroke that is pretty much impossible.

So on a legit dyno jet, I think 270-280whp from an H is pretty feasible. but just like 1/4 mile times, every little bit is more and more difficult to achieve. I'd expect it to take a perfect cam for the application, 13:1 or higher, proper fuel like Q16, perfect header and intake manifold, all dialed in... and at least 2.4L to have an H make 300whp. the only reason I say that is because it takes many of those same things to have a K make a legit 300whp, and I would expect the H to be a little more difficult due to the head design.
300whp should be able to be done with a 89x97mm pro 3 setup

Quote Originally Posted by k_killaGSR View Post
actually some of these are local shops in NY beating randy. it really doesnt matter how many people are building a motor there is only so much that can be done to a motor, rnady knows his shit so it wouldnt make a difference if he built his motor or if he had 20 people help him. randy isnt the only h2b running in his class there other h2b set ups running in his class i just used him because he is the quickest. there is a reason why people go K and its because its just a superior motor, bigger motor, better flowing head and better tech. K series are more reliable, also randy blew his motor that went 10.5 while these k's running 10.2's are still running. randy uses custom pistons and has custom work done on his head by brad at RLZ (they are good friends) and we all know RLZ does some of the best work in the states. el freddy has his rwd civic running 7's its running a k series. for a reg street person who doesnt have their own shop and alot of money and no patience then h2b is the way to go. K series is expensive but if you have patience then you can slowly put one together and spank anybody at the meets. if you roll up to a local meet with a k24/20 frank motor with bolt ons, k pro and a tune no h2b at that meet will beat you unless they are BUILT or boosted. i like h2b's they are great frank setups to have, has alot of tq and are fast shit here in NC theres a h2b with just bolts ons and a tune running 12.4's using a b16 tranny with m factory FD on slicks but k is still superior. all im saying is stock for stock K wins and fully built vs fully built K wins again so K FTMFW!

this is what happens when h2b trys to run k24 frank setup at the meets. these are two locals here in the charlotte area. the h2b has a built block with high compression pistons, full bolt ons, the head has full valvetrain with jun III cams , its tuned running a type R tranny and the k24 is a k24 block with k20a2 head full bolt ons and k pro tuned. since this video the h2b got a port and polish and is running 11's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxjoo2Qpc0s
This argument can go on for days just like the mustang vs civic topic. Randy's setup was nothing special, had a stroker kit that anyone can get and custom pistons that were "max dome" that im sure anyone could order, off the shelf cams, ported head, and custom header and intake.