[B]Step 6: Walbro Internal Fuel Pump Installation
[B]First things first, you need to un-hook both negative/positive cables from the battery to be safe, cus life is better then death.


Next, fold down your back seat using the key lock located on your rear speaker pannel above rear seats. There is one bolt that is holding your backseats onto the chassis which is accessible through the trunk of your car. Feel free to get all the way in your trunk to ge this bolt with a wrench in hand.


Once that bolt is removed, go back to the inside of the car. Push the top part of the back seat back into it's locked position so you dont have it all in the way. Pull up toward you on the back seat farthest from you, you will see two metal clip that hold the front of the seat in position. Simply mouever the clips of out their holes and the back seat should come free to take out of the car.

Seat removed. Look at all that lost change! You'll find some wierd shit under your seat lol.


Now that you have the fuel tank access cover exposed, it's time to release fuel tank pressure. to do this, you should open up your gas cap, as well as relieve pressure from your fuel filter. Make sure you have good ventalation so you dont start tripping off gas fumes.

Releaseing pressure from the fuel filter is pretty easy. There is one "service" bolt that is threaded into the Banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. Use a wrench to hold banjo bolt in place, while using a rachet to loosen the service bolt. Prepare for some fuel to leak out, so put a rag around the fuel filter.


It's time to take of the access cover, simple unscrewing of 4 screws will do the trick.
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with the cover pulled up


Pull out the cord from the connector first


use a rachet to loosen the banjo bolt (prepare for small fuel leak, have rag on hand) as well as pull vaccum hose off of the nipple. Lastly, there will be 6 nuts that hold down the cover plate, remove those.


NOw you are ready to pull the fuel pump out of the gas tank. Pull up and at a diagonal to remove it, should just slide out like so.


Once you have it out of the car, it's ready to swap the old fuel pump with the new walbro fuel pump. using a flat head screw driver, gently pop off the green "safety clip" that is holding the wire plug together. Once you poped it off, unplug the connector. Make sure not to lose the green safety clip because you will need it again to reinstall.


Using plyers, pull the rubber hose off the nipple. NOw the fuel pump is free to come off the mount, just pull on it and it should come off( it may feel hard to come off, but that's just cus the rubber bushing makes it have a tight fit.)



Compare your new walbro to your Oem fuel pump to make sure everything looks the same. In my case, the company i ordered from did not send me the correct filter to for my application, so I had no choice but to re-use the stock filter.

For reinstallation, just do all removal backwards. snap fuel pump into mount, connect rubber hose to nipple, plug connector back into place, snap "safety clip" onto the connector, slide fuel pump down and diagonal into fuel tank, hook up rubber hose, tighten banjo bolt, plug wire connector, tighten 6 nuts to fuel plate, screw down fuel tank access plate back down tight, clip back seats back into chassis, tighten back seat bolt. COMPLETE


Step 7: Installing Dsm Injectors
-->Buy a set of dsm injectors


-->First, relieve fuel pressure just like you did while installing the fuel pump, if not relieved already.

Using a flat head screwdriver, you can unclip the metal wire that holds the injector clips onto the stock injectors.


Take a 10mm socket with an extension on it, loosen and remove the three nut that hold the fuel rail down to the manifold.


The fuel rail should now be able to pulled off. When the injectors slip out of the manifold, there will be two o-rings below it, make sure you dont loose them. The injectors pop right out of the fuel rail. Here is the stock injectors(brown) compared to the dsm injectors(blue)


Cut the two wires leading to the stock injector clips, leave enough wire on either side so that you can rewrire the stock clips back in if you need/want to.


Strip the two wires


The four pairs wires coming off the fuel rail will have a common color of wire and one random color wire. If you look at the dsm clips, it will also have one common color wire and one random color wire.
The fuel rail has common yellow/black wire, and the dsm has common red wire. Take the common from each side, and solder them together for each clip. Then take the random wires and solder those together. order does not matter.


SOlder the wires together and use electrical tape to cover and protect the exposed wire.


-->Now that the clips are on, it's on to perparing the o-rings for installation. The tip of the injector on the dsm is wider in diameter then the stock injectors. This means you need to either buy larger o-ring injectors, or bore out the o-rings to fit.
Here is an side by side comparison of the diameter difference.


I decided to bore out the o-rings due to time constraint. I happened to have the perfect dremel bit to do the job.


I only used the larger hard o-ring because the soft ones would not work with the dremel. I HAVE NOT had any leaks by only useing large o-ring.

Install the injectors just like you took them out. tighten down 3 nuts to hold fuel rail in. the blue looks good.


Step 8: Installing Injector Resistor Box

Some obd0 Honda's and some other cars use low impedance injectors which need a resistor box. You can find these at a junk yard or for cheap on ebay.


On obd1 Honda's, there is a "dead end" clip on the wiring harness in the right corner of the engine bay. (obd2 has this clip under the intake manifold). This clip has the electrical power running through it that goes to the injectors. It is right next to the clutch master cylinder.


When you find the clip, pop off the Protecting cover so it exposes the inside.

Using a multimeter, check for conductivity between each clip and the end's of the "dead-end" connector. The idea is to find which wires actually are routed to the injector clips, so seeing if electricity can flow, you can guess-and-check and find out.
There are eight different wires going into the "dead-end" connector, all of which you must check to see if they are the winners! According to h-t, it could be random placed, so do not assume and follow my example. CHECK FOR YOURSELF TO MAKE SURE!

The red dots are showing which ones came out conductive for me. AGAIN, CHECK FOR YOURSELF TO MAKE SURE!

Once you found out which ones are conductive, move down 2-4 inches and cut the wire. This break in to wire is where you will have your resistor tie into the system. Strip both sides of the new striped wires.

If you take a look at your resistor box, there should be 5 wires coming out of it. Four of them should be common color and one of them should be a different color. Strip all the ends if they are not already.


Next, Take the Single different color wire from the resistor box and solder it to all Four of the wires on the "dead-end" side. See diagram for better explaintion.


Connect Each one of the Four common color wires from the resistor box to one of the four yellow/black wires on the Injector side of the cut. Solder each wire seperately, no order is nessecary.


Here is a Diagram I made for better explaintion.


Wrap all the exposed wires up with electrical tape and mount the resistor box in the corner. here is the finished product.


Step 9: Installing Gm 3bar Map Sensor
Purchase Gm 3bar Map Sensor with Pigtail connector From Camp1320.com. It's like 80$shipped new!
You must find stock map sensor(it is located right ABOVE throttle body). Clip off the old connector on the harness side of the sensor. Strip and get the wires ready to solder to somethign new.
The new Gm map sensor should have came with a "pigtail" which is the male side of the connector with wires coming out of it ready to solder together. Strip them.
I put together a diagrahm on how this should be wired up!


Refrence hondata.com's picture of a gm 3bar for the clip wire order...


Connect a vacuum hose from the map sensor to a good vacuum source. I used a GE vac manifold again for a good relieable source. You do not want to "t" this vacuum source off anything else, nor have it too long of a hose. The map sensor is sensitive and extremely important to the performance of your vehicle.


To check for proper installation, use multimeter to check voltages and conductivity. Between wire A and C, there should read 5volts. With ignition "on" but car not running, There should be 1.6Volts between A(GND) and B(map signal).

Step 10: Installing Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold

Purchase a Vacuum manifold if you want a cleaner install or need it for multiple vacuum lines. I suggest a Golden Eagle Manifold. http://www.Camp3120.com to purchase one!



Go to your local automotive parts store to get the vacuum fittings that are needed. You will need to buy fittings that are 1/4"npt threaded side, and 1/8" barbed size. I got three in the pic but bought another later because Advanced Auto was sold out at the time.

This manifold does not come Pre-drilled, that way you can choose how many holes you want open without having to purchase plugs. I needed to dril out four holes for my setup. Using a 5/16th drill bit, Drill out the amount of hole that you will be using for your setup. Try not to hit the threads on the side's of the holes. Once you make it through, blow out any scrapes of metal.


Use teflon tape and wrap it around the threads of the fitting to insure tight seal with manifold. Screw them in and tighten them up with a wrench




Now is the time to find a place to mount it. The location should be no more then 5" away from the main source vacuum(brake booster line). I used the center-top area on my firewall where nothing was located. Using a 15/32 bit, make two holes useing the manifold as a template before you drill.


To make it a nice, secure install, i went ahead and removed the upper plastic vent infront of my windshield. There are about 10 little clips that hold it on.


Hold the manifold up and tighten it down with the bolts/nuts!


Using a 1/2" vacuum line, measure out the distance in which it will need to be. YOu need to use a bigger vacuum "t" that can support the 1/2" diameter lines. Cut the brake booster line BEFORE the check vavle!


Cut the brake booster line BEFORE the check valve!


Run the 1/2" line from the T to the side of the Vacuum Manifold


Connect the rest of the normal size vacuum lines(not sure true size). These lines will run to your products that need a good vacuum source. clamp the lines on the fittings with hose clamps or zip ties.

Finished product. Clean eh?


Step 11: Installing Boost Gauge
Buy a boost guage of your choice, I went the way I shouldnt have, and bought a cheap ebay boost gauge. Why not buy that guage? cus of course, it's not accurate at all.. but I was in a ditch for money. It'll be changed soon enough.
First, you gotta wire up your boost gauge. pwr/gnd/dim. there are plenty of ways to do this wiring, but i found the easiest way was to use your fusebox. If you take a look at the fuse box, underneath your dash, you will find exactly the sources of pwr you will need.
Your 12v pwr wire should plug in underneath the "radio/cigarettelighter 15a fuse" for continuous 12v action. You can plug your Dimming Control wire underneath your "low-beam" headlight fuse"


-->here they are shown pluged in... dont mind the orange wire. red is pwr, purple is dim.


Now it's time to run your boost/vaccum line to a vaccum source. I used my GE vaccum manifold for a good vaccum Source, make sure to tap the vaccum from the manifold side of the system so that you can read vaccum and boost. There is a small hole(just right of battery) that allows wires to travel through firewall, this is a perfect spot to feed your boost line through.


Keep running the line under and through the dash up to whereever you mounted your boost gauge. Pull it in and your all set to read your boost/vaccum!


-->I mounted my boost gauge on my steering column for easy viewing...


Step 12: Install Hondata Ecu
Easiest part of the turbo installation. LAST PART as well!
Move to your passenger side of the car, and pull the carpet up from underneath the dash. You wil have to pop out a few clips to get carpet up and pulled back. YOu'll see your ecu come out from hiding on the side of the wall.


The ecu is being held up by a few nuts/bolts. Using a 10mm take them all off and pull your ecu from it's mounted position. Now that the ecu is free from it's wall, unclip the harness from the ecu. Plug the new ecu in.. and remount it back up! Push back carpet and push back all clips!

Congratulations! You have now sucessfully installed a turbocharge in your Honda. Get ready to be boosted!!!


Pre-Start Up:
There are a few things you need/should do before you start it up and start driving.
Refill/check oil and replace oil filter
Flush/top off Coolant
Go over all electrical wiring again to make sure it's all secure and connected
Go over every vacuum hose to make sure it's tight and secure
Connect exhaust back up if you have one
Pull your spark plug wires and crank the motor a few times to get some oil into the brand new turbo

Start Her up!:
Turn the ignition and start her up!

Let it idle to normal operating tempatures before you drive. While it's idleing, check throughly around the oil lines to make sure there's no oil leaks.

Fix oil leak if necessary. and take that bitch for a test drive! no push it at ALL if it's on a basemap of some sort. If your just running a hack or fmu, take it easy till you know everything is running perfect. Drive down and back on the street, and re-check everything!

CONGRATULATIONS! YOU HAVE SUCESSFULLY INSTALLED AND DRIVEN A BOOSTED HONDA!!!!
-now is the time to go get this Honda tuned so you can really feel boost