WHITE 350Z ON 75 SOUTH TONIGHT

[KevinT707]

yea its the torque from the 3.5 of the Z, the 1.6 b16 only puts down 110 at max torque to the wheels. Yes sucks but I will be seeing you soon Speed Monkey

[Speedm0(\)key]

yea its the torque from the 3.5 of the Z, the 1.6 b16 only puts down 110 at max torque to the wheels. Yes sucks but I will be seeing you soon Speed Monkey

i was trying to find you at varisity, your car was there, i was gonna ask if ya wanted to run off bottle ( i was in the Z ), but i couldnt find you


edit: i dont even know what you look like hahaha

[KevinT707]

Towards the end of the night I saw you getting into your car, I'm an asian guy w/ spikey hair. Yea thats fine I'll run you w/out bottle & w/ bottle later on when I get nitrous tuned.

i was trying to find you at varisity, your car was there, i was gonna ask if ya wanted to run off bottle ( i was in the Z ), but i couldnt find you


edit: i dont even know what you look like hahaha

[5.7camal]

is it wet?

not hard to tune just requires changing nozzles.
i might be able to help ya.

[KevinT707]

no dude, it's a dry. It must be different on imports & domestics or something but the shop & people recommend that I get it tuned to run bigger shots of N20, like over 75, because adjustment of timing & etc. is necessary. There will be 2 settings that I will run my car on, each with different fuel maps & etc. 1. All-Motor , 2. Nitrous

is it wet?

not hard to tune just requires changing nozzles.
i might be able to help ya.

[5.7camal]

naw its the same. if you are running wet they you dont ahve to worry about to fuel maps. because supplemental fuel is added with the n20.
well i have a 125 shot and ppl so on v8s the first 125-150 is free.. meaning run 93 octane and change 1 to 2 heat ranges colder on you plugs.
u have half the cylinders so the first 75 is a "freebie" that is if using a wet system.

i highly recomend converting to a wet system!



you will need to retard timing with a larger shot. on domestics its usually anywhere from 1-4 degrees depending on how large of a shot. with that all you are doing is retarding timing to get rid of knock aka detonation.

you can do the same thing by running alcohol injection. this acts as a super octane booster raising the flash point of the fuel and taking away heat from the cylinder. people use alcohol/water injection on turbos because of this effect.

so u can get away with stock timing and or a tad of retard and not have detonation. people dont do this because most shops dont know alot about nitrous and alcohol injection. sure they can tell u it makes u go faster and a little bit here and there but they dont know all there is to know about nitrous nor do i! I just purchased all the components for an alcohol injection system for under $60 and im going to make it myself. ill wire it to come on when the n20 is armed.

but the key to n20 is the cylinder pressure. you have to control cylinder pressure when building a high performance high hp n20 engine.


i think you also might be interested in a new device from NX. its called the maximizer 2. what does it allow you to do?
everything! rpm windpw switch, selective gear lock out, start rpm end rpm..
to name a few but the best part is that it allows you to control cylinder pressure by rpm based nitrous delivery. it pulses the solenoids to delievera percentage of the shot u have on there. y is this good?

well think bout it with n20 more pressure = more power. when u jsut do a basic n20 shot wet or dry its a shock and the clyinder pressures soar. well tq is directly related to cylinder pressure. so what you do is setup this thing on a dyno and set what maximum fwtq u want to allow.. this is usually limited by A. bottom end or other engine components b. tranny or C axles.
say in your case itd be 300 fwtq. well take the jets start small and work your way up in jet sizing making sure u provide enough fuel(also retard it as you see knock)(this is where a wet system is great) to 300fwtq at say 3250 or 3500. so at 3500 you have max cylinder pressure and max tq. then u can ramp the n20 going wiht a great % of the jet to maintain exactly 300fwtq all the way to redline.. what does this do? it makes your hp climb and clim and climb without loosing any tq. so intead of the same set up with say a 200 shot getting like 300 fwtq at a small rpm range and maybe 240-260 hp
youd have prob well over 350 fwhp with a constant 300fwtq and would be a fuck load faster. that is if you have a high flowing head and n20 cams. as we know tq is what destroys stuff so keepin the tq costant is not allowing the engine to take any more beating that it would withg the non rpm ramped n20 shot. also say we kicked in the full fwtq at 3500 we could ease it in from say 2750 so it wasnt a huge spike.

this is the new age of n20 that almost no one knows about.
www.fjoracing.com made the controller for nx. so u can look at it there
again its called MAXIMIZER 2. you can get it for $640 from www.nitrodaves.com trust me this will take down turbos easily
oh by the way the whole thing is tunable on you laptop. and you can have your tuner tune it too if you like. if you go that route please let me know id like to watch them tune it.


anywayz let me know if you want any more help and what you think.
sorry for all this crazy ness

later your friend
Sean

[5.7camal]

but on my car i am going to get a msd timing controler.
i can advance or retard 15+-. and wire it in through my n20 system so it runs when i turn it on. so besides a base tune to mkae sure my car wasnt running lean i didnt cahnge the stock timing.. when i go with a forged bottom end and a 300 shot. i will get the msd retard knob and the maximizer. but as for now i have 2 weak pts on the car.
bottom end and transmission