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you impress me once again with your knowledge in every post. reps for you!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter02SS
on a side note, with a drag type suspension(don't know what you have) if your front lifts enough on take off, your weight transition in the heavy chassis will help you to run lower 60's since it would be even grater load weight on the rear tires. :goodjob:
My car is actually lowered,but i do have some suspension mod's,but not all of it is complete.It seem's to hook pretty good now, but i don't want it to hook extremely well yet. I have the stock 10 bolt and it is screaming at me to take it out. I have a 9in. in the garage I have to get gear's for and it will be going in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NevrNufTorq
I am not taking sides on this but I was in a 02 SS with bolt ons only last night with Nitto's and suspension work on the rear and he couldn't get it to hook even leaving at 1,500 and then hammering it. Still blew the tires off and so we tried it in several ranges. The only time he could get it to "dead hook" somewhat was 1/2 through 2nd and then still hazed a little when he went into 3rd. He was running the NT555R stock engine, manual tranny, dry pavement. I know the factors of tire pressure, rim size, tire size, etc. So don't bother trying to educate me on that issue.
Now I am the last one to call BS on anything because I have seen some weird things happen in my lifetime but if the car was making so low of boost for it to spin in 1st gear and he still out ran a Gixer 1000 then the guy on the bike needs some serious freaking riding lessons and that Camaro had to be feathering that clutch or launching @ 1,200 rpms and patting on it the whole time.
Now argue all you want to but those are simple statements not meant for a flame war by any means. Stupid shit happens but I don't see it in my farthest dream land that anyone with a 10.70 car on Nitto's will never out run a Gixer 1,000 with an experienced rider on it.
Take a 10.70 car and swap tires to Nitto's and tell me what it will run then? I honestly don't know but I am open for some guessing. I would guess mid 11's myself and that's if you could get some traction somewhere through the gears.
Hey Hunter what was your 60 ft on that 10.70 pass and what kind of tires were you running then with that 10 bolt?
I am not being bias and will gladly post this on SCF also.
Chris
EDITED: I see you ran that 10.7 on Nitto's at a well prepped track with a stock 10 inch rear end? You definitely have balls. The tires apparently are working for you better than any I have ever experienced myself but I know several on here that run them impressively.
Not sure if you meant me or the OP since is was after my post. PM sent...Quote:
Originally Posted by FAHHQUE700
He had an auto when he ran 10.7 Next track outing with the 6 speed should add a little more data to chew on. It will be funny if in the end, the rider was lying and it was a 600 bike ;)
I am old and senile and can't remember shit but from what I read about his car it should be in the high 9's instead of high 10's. I didn't pay attention to when the auto/stick change was made exactly but all that put together with a 600 bike? Well I have seen it done from a dig, 302 stock bottom with heads and a 125 shot.
I never intentionally try to be a dick on here but it was hard for me to believe someone could drive a Gixer 1000 that shitty.
Hunter next time you go to the track let me know if it is local, I'd like to see your car run. I am not hung on Ford's, I like em all.
Nevrnuftorq, I will let you know next time I go at least. Dunno when Hunter is going again. I may try to go friday night to SDR or Steele I still want to get that 9 sec pass at low boost. I can do it with a tick better 60'....just may have to take slicks instead of DRs on a friday night to do it. Best pass at low boost was 10.006-139mph on a 1.58 60' 3940 raceweight. I just added 40# with my boombox/amp/front swaybar. The weight wont much matter but hopefully the swaybar wont hurt much. It just drives SO much better with it attached. maybe i will undo one endlink for the track.
Keep in mind bugman that when I ran the 10.70 I was also on nitto's. The way I drive the car on the street is the way i was at the track. I don't expect everybody to believe me ,because when I asked him what size bike it was I was the last person to expect him to say a 1000. But it did happen and I know alot depend's on the rider also.My 60's were I believe1.75 or so range. I don't have the slip in front of me.I never changed tire's. The same nitto's at the track are on for the street.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BUGMAN
Hm it is apparent that you didn't read my post very well since I explained that it was very believable being a 600 and the bottom part that you quoted from me explains that I know what tires you were running.
Did ya just feel the need to say something? http://www.streetcarforums.com/images/smilies/smile.gif
Yes.:boobies:
Ha Ha I hear ya! :toilet:
I was serious about the track next time you go.
Ok,I have to get my 9in installed first. Hopefully by the end of the week that will be done. But I will pm ya and let you know.
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Originally Posted by crafty
:lmfao: ... Did you really think you could make the change from auto to 6 and not retune.... :blah: .. Or is it something else ?. :lmfao: .. I just now get online and read all the Bullshit after I said I was Done... Go read the Post on SCF, And Don't worry it was post before I logged on here... :goodjob: :...
with the auto, the 9" wasnt really a necessity over 1.5x 60' but with the stick, you need it. get ready for more weight....now you see how my turd got to 3980 raceweight and 4050 with the street wheels.
What gear you thinking of?
He has 15" welds with 325 50 15s M/Ts and thats the set up i was referring to..Quote:
Originally Posted by NevrNufTorq
You need to redirect your words.. I know more about performance cars than you could ever possible remember. WTF would lead you to think that we would retune the car after doing the swap.. We don't do shit like you, we actually buy new parts. We don't build junk yard cars..Quote:
Originally Posted by 1civic
tips tables is probably the only thing that would need adjusting, and with more timing, you can assume with a little timing +/- , fuel could be changed as well. But, drivability wise... The car should be fine... if this was a Manual to Automatic (Electronically controlled) then a retune would defiantly be needed.:cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by crafty
Quote:
Originally Posted by crafty
Why don't you tell us about what happen on the Dyno... I'm sure something wasn't right.... :rolleyes:
The car was breaking up on topend. So Chris put new plugs in it and we havn't gone back yet..Quote:
Originally Posted by 1civic
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1civic
he still had more power than you ever will:goodjob:
What he said^^^^^^^^:cheers: