Polished up hazy headlights using Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish

[SweatyBalls]

I don't know if this stuff will last or if it will eat up the headlights. But these are spare headlights I had laying around. I made a mess the first time. I recommend wiping the polish on with a pad and then using some powered polishing. Don't recommend applying polish to the power tool, apply to headlight instead. DOh!!

[speedminded]

I don't know if this stuff will last or if it will eat up the headlights. But these are spare headlights I had laying around. I made a mess the first time. I recommend wiping the polish on with a pad and then using some powered polishing. Don't recommend applying polish to the power tool, apply to headlight instead. DOh!!

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0746.jpg

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0747.jpg

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0749.jpg

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...d/DSC_0748.jpg

DIY thread of the year. Thorough step by step directions lol! :facepalm:

Seriously, metal polish is the best for plastic polishing. I've been doing it for years. Blue Coral makes a metal polish that has a silicone sealant in it too and have found it works the best.

[SweatyBalls]

I think the Mother's M&A Polish was like under $10 for the 10oz and under $5 for the smaller size. I'll have to try the Blue Coral. Even though the Mothers did a decent job it wasn't perfect. Maybe I'll go back and do it again and longer polishing time. It's plastic so I didn't want to over do it.

[THEONE]

will it remove that scaley type crust from the head light?

[SiR EG2]

you didnt wet sand it?

[speedminded]

will it remove that scaley type crust from the head light?

You'll want to wet sand it then polish it.

[jdm>usdm]

Fantastic write up.


On a serious note, Im convinced that this is the best pre-assembled kit offered. Never seen ANYTHING work as well. It looks as though the OP used the fitting for the drill which is included in this very kit, or one identical to it.

[Kevykev]

Well done on that accord headlight, looks great but the yellowing will be back for more. I can tell that you didn't wet-sand it by looking at the corner of the light.

Fantastic write up.


On a serious note, Im convinced that this is the best pre-assembled kit offered. Never seen ANYTHING work as well. It looks as though the OP used the fitting for the drill which is included in this very kit, or one identical to it.

User error or lack of enough product is very common with those.

[Psw Jdm]

Bump fir you

[jdm>usdm]

User error or lack of enough product is very common with those.

I was able to get both headlights on my integra looking like glass with just one of those kits. I did my own thing though rather than follow the instructions step by step. Maybe thats why my results were different than those of others

[DarKStaR]

I always wet sand them first, seems to turn out better and last longer.

[primespark22]

i used mothers polished and its been goimg strong for a year now,but i use sand paper first

[Kevykev]

Word, The principle is to sand past the top layer of the BS clearcoat manufacturers apply.

I was able to get both headlights on my integra looking like glass with just one of those kits. I did my own thing though rather than follow the instructions step by step. Maybe thats why my results were different than those of others

Good Stuff. Bunch of ways to get good results.

[smoknlegend]

Word, The principle is to sand past the top layer of the BS clearcoat manufacturers apply.
Good Stuff. Bunch of ways to get good results.

Ahh the factory UV coating. Ya, if there are chips in that, you want to remove that whole coat through wetsanding.

Now i dont know the validity to this, but ive had a few people tell me to avoid metal polish on plastic since some of the chemicals in the metal polish will actually increase the likeliness of them to yellow.

When I do headlights, i normally use 3000 grit wet sanding, followed by hitting it with meguiars 105 polish on a 4" lake country pad, topped off with a plastic polish by hand, then a wax.

[speedminded]

Ahh the factory UV coating. Ya, if there are chips in that, you want to remove that whole coat through wetsanding.

Now i dont know the validity to this, but ive had a few people tell me to avoid metal polish on plastic since some of the chemicals in the metal polish will actually increase the likeliness of them to yellow.

When I do headlights, i normally use 3000 grit wet sanding, followed by hitting it with meguiars 105 polish on a 4" lake country pad, topped off with a plastic polish by hand, then a wax.

It will always yellow no matter what is used if it's not properly polished and waxed AND maintained.

[smoknlegend]

It will always yellow no matter what is used if it's not properly polished and waxed AND maintained.

of course it will, but what i was told was that because there was kerosene in mothers mag and aluminum polish, it would actually deteriorate the plastic quicker, causing it to yellow sooner.

[THEONE]

what grit paper do you all reccomend and is it ok to polish by hand since i dont have drill,i do have a variable speed buffer will that work?

[speedminded]

of course it will, but what i was told was that because there was kerosene in mothers mag and aluminum polish, it would actually deteriorate the plastic quicker, causing it to yellow sooner.

If you properly polish and wax it afterward then there is no longer any residue of petroleum based products. That's why it works so good, it basically eats off a layer...like a liquid sandpaper. I've using metal polish on plastic lenses for at least 7 years.

[primespark22]

^^^to theone it depends on your lights and how bad they are,mine where pretty bad i had to use 600,800,1000,i went the extra mile and used 1500,2000 then polished

[THEONE]

^^^to theone it depends on your lights and how bad they are,mine where pretty bad i had to use 600,800,1000,i went the extra mile and used 1500,2000 then polished

so trat the lights like paint then? should i use any soap in the water?

[speedminded]

so trat the lights like paint then? should i use any soap in the water?

Yes, all plastic and glass should be treated like the paint. You can wet sand, polish, and wax all of it.

I wouldn't sand glass though, there's no need in it since there is nothing on glass that can't be polished off. I always polish and wax windows though.

[primespark22]

he speaks the troof^^^^^

[THEONE]

Yes, all plastic and glass should be treated like the paint. You can wet sand, polish, and wax all of it.

I wouldn't sand glass though, there's no need in it since there is nothing on glass that can't be polished off. I always polish and wax windows though.

well thanks, im gonna try this again, will my polisher work for this with a wool pad and terry cover?i tried scratch out it helped but not that much and yeah my light housings are plastic.

[primespark22]

yeah but ones you sand with a lil work you can even polish with a shirt lol,i have a big buffer at the shop but what i did was get a small one for 20 buxs for the little stuff

[Kevykev]

When I do headlights, i normally use 3000 grit wet sanding, followed by hitting it with meguiars 105 polish on a 4" lake country pad, topped off with a plastic polish by hand, then a wax.

WOW, I can't believe you go that fine.

I stop at1500, As long as you have the right products all scratches will be removed.

For Japanese Vehicles 800 or 1000 is actually a good starting point. German Vehicles you must start @ 600 but as low as 500. Starting at 800 or 1000=longer sanding time.

I can go on and on and on I've got it down to a science and the yellowing never comes back EVER (only on cheap aftermarket applications) I doubt they use polycarbonate lenses.

Speedminded - Glass is a LOT more labor you can actually sand glass to reduce/minimize pitting which will lead to greater clarity.

[primespark22]

^^^yeah thats how i look at it,the finer grit the more you will sand,and thats good info you posted

[SweatyBalls]

No I didn't wet sand it, just wanted to spend a minute on it and see how it would clean up without any effort. Lazy.... yes very!

If they weren't my spare headlights that I don't plan on using, then I may take the time to wet-sand it.

I don't even know where that foam polishing pad came from, it was just in my toolbox. It may have been from the 3M kit.

Thanks for all the response.

[Dylan]

yeah i tried it about 3 weeks ago on my car and the yellow came off pretty well..and still hasnt returned.its a great 5 mins in effort improvement.

[SPOOLIN]

i wet sand with 2000 till consistent and then use the dewalt buffer and meguires compounds. Its been a few months now and still shiny. It usually will come back if you dont clean them and wax them from time to time, the factory coating has just burned off from sun and weather and you really should clear coat them or put the 3m clear bra stuff on them to make it more permanent.

[mikesEK]

ive allways wondered about that as well

i THINK itd go like this 800-1000...and just clear them (like by a car paint shop) cux
there'd be no need to polish cuz the paint would need some sorta surface to adhear to

anyone done this..... I have a cousin that paints n he says "yeah itll work
but it may flake off at some point, the clear is made to bond onto PAINT
not plastic" what you guys think....or has anyone on here ever had a set cleared before?

[SPOOLIN]

ive allways wondered about that as well

i THINK itd go like this 800-1000...and just clear them (like by a car paint shop) cux
there'd be no need to polish cuz the paint would need some sorta surface to adhear to

anyone done this..... I have a cousin that paints n he says "yeah itll work
but it may flake off at some point, the clear is made to bond onto PAINT
not plastic" what you guys think....or has anyone on here ever had a set cleared before?

it would work fine, clear is made to bond to anything that is properly prepped for it, like fresh base coat, or a properly sanded sub strait.

[mikesEK]

it would work fine, clear is made to bond to anything that is properly prepped for it, like fresh base coat, or a properly sanded sub strait.

with that being said......automotive clear would last way longer than a polish
job....right??!?!?!??!?!?!?, cuz it has uv stabilizers in it

[RHD_Joe]

Bump for lookin

[91LudeSiT]

with that being said......automotive clear would last way longer than a polish
job....right??!?!?!??!?!?!?, cuz it has uv stabilizers in it

I've wondered this myself, and what you guys put on the headlights to protect them from UV?

[Kevykev]

I've wondered this myself, and what you guys put on the headlights to protect them from UV?

Just keep them waxed.

Do not put automotive clear on them, you'll just be recreating the problem.

The clear will pit since the lights are up front, then it's down hill from there. The clear will also give it a texture.

When you do it the RIGHT way, Clear is unnecessary.

[jr4mny]

Fantastic write up.


On a serious note, Im convinced that this is the best pre-assembled kit offered. Never seen ANYTHING work as well. It looks as though the OP used the fitting for the drill which is included in this very kit, or one identical to it.

x2 what i heard from a buddy at autozone

[Hondatwin23]

that kit has the exact sand paper grit for the headlights to come out good. that trizac at the end is the key