my radio sounds wierd
well i installed a amp 4 channel in my car and i'm using it on my speakers but when my car is on neutral and i'm stopped the car makes wierd noises when i press the gas, this happens when the rpm go up and down the sounds go up and down(not volume wise) any one have a clue thank you
ToTaLMaDNe$$
Yeah we roll and we ride
In control, we don't stop
We gonna glow where we drive
Let you know we on top
you have engine noise. it could be multiple problems. either your amp is junk, or your radio is junk. you may just have some bad rca's ( start with this first get some good rca cables, and try to keep them away from any power cables), also move your ground wire to your amp and make sure it is secure. is all else fails just buy a noise filter with rca out and rca in, and the noise will be gone.
RESIZE PIC PLEASE
Originally Posted by sina518
........most of the time your RCAs are too close to a power wire!!!!!.....gets annoying after sometime!!!
....1
youre an idiot,please refrain from opening your mouth when you dont what youre talking about...
sina is right..it could be junk amp or radio..it could be bad jet of rca's..or it could be a bad ground..make sure your radio and amp are grounded properly..and also what kind of equipment do you have
probably a bad ground. try a bigger wire and make sure its snug on what its grounding to. make sure there is no paint, just bare metal. 99% sure its ground issue
98 Acura Integra LS-DD
??????????????????-project
i was taught by you.
RESIZE PIC PLEASE
i really don't understand how your 99% sure
RESIZE PIC PLEASE
because i am pretty sure he is talking about the "whining" noise coming through the speakers and that usually means a bad ground. i am assuming thats what he is talking about
98 Acura Integra LS-DD
??????????????????-project
the process of elimination would be the best bed starting with the source unit and working from there
Hybridaccord
PS3 online screen name: Eiswritsat
Ditto, you both know exactly what you are talking about, the entire body of the vehicle is a ground conductor which can induce noise and is typically the problem.
http://www.carsound.com/columns/navone/nav0005.shtml
www.canze.org.nz/forum/attachments//Trace_Noise.doc
here is a link to help you in the process of elimination.
whoa wtf are u talking about???!!!!....i put "im with stupid" in that post because sina is correct and ive had the same problem with a system in my car!!!...
.....1
i got a alpine radio and a coustiq 4 channel amp when i had the system running it was not making the noise after 2 week or so started i'ma check tomorrow and i'll let yall know reps for the help
thank you
ToTaLMaDNe$$
Yeah we roll and we ride
In control, we don't stop
We gonna glow where we drive
Let you know we on top
misread..sorrywhoa wtf are u talking about???!!!!
Level 1: Check out the Amplifier(s)
------------------------------------------
After you have determined that there is noise in the system, determine
if the amplifier is causing the noise. To do this, mute the signal at
the inputs to the amp by using shorting plugs. If there is no noise,
then the amp is fine, and you can proceed to level 2. However, if
there is noise, then use a test speaker at the amp's output. If this
stops the noise, then the problem is originating in the speaker wiring,
or the passive crossovers. Check to make sure that none of these are
shorting with the body of the car, and start again at level 1. If
noise is still present when using the test speaker, then there may be a
problem with the power supply on the amp. Try connecting an isolated
power supply - if this does not get rid of the noise, then there is
something seriously wrong with the amp, and it should be replaced. If
the noise goes away, then there may be a problem with power supply
filtering or isolation. This can be fixed by changing the amp's ground
point or by adding external supply filtering.
Level 2: Reduce the System
---------------------------------
The amps have been determined to be noise free. If you have any
processors between the head unit and the amps, disconnect them and
connect the head unit directly to the amp. If this gets rid of the
noise, then one (or more) of the processors must be at fault, so
proceed to level 5. Otherwise, try running the signal cables over a
number of different routes. If you are able to find one that does not
produce any noise, permanently route the cables in the same manner, and
proceed to level 5. If not, then you must isolate the head unit from
the car's chassis (except for its ground!) - don't forget to disconnect
the antenna, since it is also grounded to the car. If isolating
the head unit does not solve the problem, the move the grounding point
of the head unit. Hopefully the noise will be gone, and you can
install the head unit with a quiet ground and proceed to level 5,
otherwise go on to level 3.
Level 3: Move the Head Unit
----------------------------------
The amplifiers are fine, but moving both the ground for the head unit
and the signal cables does not solve the noise problem. Take the unit
completely out of the dash, and put it on either the seat or carpet,
and run new signal cables to the input of the amp. If this solves the
problem, re-install the head unit, one step at a time and skip to level
5. But if the noise persists, then move the head unit as close to the
amp as possible and use the shortest possible signal cables. This will
verify that the original signal cables are not causing the problem -
assuming the noise is gone, reinstall the head unit one step at a time
and go to level 5. Otherwise, there may be a problem with the power
filtering for the head unit. As with the amps, power the head unit
with an isolated power supply (again making sure that the head unit
isn't touching the car's chassis at all). If the noise goes away, you
can add power supply filtering or an isolated power supply; go to
level 2. But if the isolated power supply does not solve the problem,
then you can either replace the head unit and go to level 2, or check
the car's electrical system in level 4.
Level 4: Testing the Car
-------------------------------
There does not seem to be a problem with either the head unit or the
amplifier, and the car's charging system is suspect. To see if this is
the case, we can use a system in a car that is already known to be
"quiet." Bring both cars together as if you were going to jump one,
and use jumper cables to connect the two batteries. Start the engine
of the car with the noise problem, and listen to the "quiet" car's
system. If the noise does not go away, there is a SERIOUS problem with
your car's electrical system (possibly a bad alternator). Have a
qualified mechanic check the charging system out. If there is no noise
in the "quiet" car, then the "noisy" car's charging system is
definitely quiet, so continue with level 5.
Level 5: Adding Signal Processors
-----------------------------------------
We have proven that the amplifiers are good, the head unit is good, and
the car's electrical system is good. Now we need to reconnect each
signal processor. Repeat this level for each signal processor used in
your system; if you have added all of your signal processors, and
there is no longer any noise, CONGRATULATIONS! You've removed the
noise from your system! Connect the signal processor. If there
isn't any noise, then go on to the next signal processor. Otherwise,
try re-routing the signal cables. If this cures the problem, then route
them permanently over the quiet path, and install the next processor.
If not, then isolate the processor from the car's chassis except for a
single grounding point. If this works, then permanently isolate the
processor, and move on to the next processor. If isolation does not
help, then advance to level 6.
Level 6: Processor Isolation Tests
------------------------------------------
Now, noise enters the system when one particular processor is
installed, but regrounding it does not help. Move the processor very
close to the amp, and check for noise again. If there isn't any, then
re-install the processor, carefully routing the cables to ensure no
noise, and continue at level 5 with the next processor. Otherwise, use
an isolated power supply to power the processor, making sure that no
part of the processor is touching the car's chassis. If this solves
the problem, then consider permanently installing an isolated power
supply or possibly a 1:1 transformer, and go to level 5 with the next
processor. Otherwise, separate the processor and isolated power supply
from the car by many feet and re- test. If there is still noise, then
there is a serious problem with the processor's design. Get a
different processor, and continue at level 5 with it. If separating
the power supply and processor from the car does solve the noise
problem, then either the processor is damaged, or your tests were
inaccurate. Repeat level 5.
that was ****ing rude!
dont trip!!!!! its cool.......he mis-read!!!!!....1
your rca's are ran down the same side of the car as the power....common practice with a 4ch amp is tho have run them on the opposite side of the car.
94 Honda Del Sol VTEC
only with 4 ch amps? lol. you should do that all the time!
GCO Member
NRA Member
i didnt get that anyways how do i do dat hehhee
ToTaLMaDNe$$
Yeah we roll and we ride
In control, we don't stop
We gonna glow where we drive
Let you know we on top
um... pull the paneling on both sides of the car. undo the power wire or rca's and route them on the other side.
GCO Member
NRA Member
Yes, with subs(mono, 2 ch amps)...Most of the time you can get away with running them down the same side with no problems at all, but with 4ch amps its a must.
94 Honda Del Sol VTEC
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