Another DSLR Asshole
So I finally got with the program and got my first DSLR camera today. I don't wanna be like a lot of others I know and just click and shoot. I actually wanna learn what is best and best tips for quality....
With that said what is the correct/Best mode to take photos of cars at meets or Events ?
Canon Xsi Content
just the standard 18-55Originally Posted by Nerdsrock22
I'd recommend for the first time, set it in Aperture Priority mode and just shoot. Don't worry *too much* about the settings, the camera should handle the exposure. Focus on composition; that's literally the biggest mistake I see early amateurs making. Keep the horizons level and try to capture the entire car in the frame. If you want to capture details, make sure and get close enough that it's obvious what you are trying to do. Show coverage doesn't necessarily lend itself to out-of-the-box thinking, as it tends to be more journalistic than artistic (though it doesn't have to be but that's a whole different story).
That, and stay low. Everybody at the show saw the cars at eye level, give them something different (though still level with the horizon, please).
Ill try that out tomorrow also i don't expect to understand the white balance and all those settings just yet lol
How about for scenery like trees,flowers outdoor stuff without to much glare or light exposure ?
I know with Nikons, the white balance setting is essentially selectable by looking at the sun and matching it with the corresponding icon (cloudy, daylight, shade, whatever). I generally will select one for the entire shoot (as long as it is in the same location), that way if it is off, I can correct all of the images at the same time.
With the nature stuff, set the aperture as low as it will go, and get in real tight on your subject. That will give you the shortest depth of field and prettiest bokeh (out of focus part of the picture).
Landscapes are generally the opposite, you want to go with a higher aperture to get more of the subject in focus.
That being said, all rules are meant to be broken. Everything I'm saying here is the "Explain like I'm five" version.
Understanding exposure and composition is more important than WB adjustment. You can adjust WB, hue, saturation, etc, in post processing (Lightroom, PS, GIMP, etc.)
Using any setting other than Manual (M), will give the camera input into the exposure, so start by making your task easier, and use P,A, or S modes, depending on what you are shooting.
Exposure is controlled through 3 things: how long the shutter is open, how open the aperture is, and how sensative the sensor is to the light (ISO).
The higher the ISO, the more sensative the sensor is to capturing light, but the additional sensativity comes at a price, which is increased noise.
A is Aperture-priority, which means that you set the aperture, and the camera calculates what shutter speed and ISO is needed. The numbers run in reverse (smaller number means bigger opening), and you should think of it like a water pipe - the larger it is, the more light it can collect in a given amount of time. Aperture also lets you control the depth of field.
S is Shutter-priority, which means that you set how long the shutter will be open, and the camera calculates what aperture and ISO is needed. Higher shutter speeds help you kill ambient light (when you are using a flash), and capture sharp images of things moving (like cars and children). Slow shutter speeds let you collect a lot of light, and use lower ISOs for less noise, or low light areas. Slow shutter speeds can also let you capture blur to display motion. The faster the shutter speed, the longer that the aperture has to be open, to collect enough light for a correct exposure (or you have to raise the ISO).
P is Program mode, and lets the camera figure out aperture, shutter, and ISO for a correct exposure. It works well for most things, but you still have to keep in mind that it doesn't know exactly what you have in your mind - it doesn't know exactly how you want the shot to look.
I suggest that you read "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson, and go through some of the online information. A good place to start is the Adorama Learning Center: http://www.adorama.com/alc/
For shooting cars at car shows, I've found that I use 3 lenses on my Nikon the most:
35mm f/1.8 - Sharp photos from a prime lens, I can control the DOF, and excellent low light shooting for night meets. I generally only carry this one if it is a night meet.
10-20mm - Too slow for low light, but good during the day. With a wide angle, almost everything is in focus, so DOF is always going to be longer. Canon makes an excellent 10-22mm, and if you like to get up close, and take twisted perspectives, then you have an excellent option.
18-55mm - The kit lens, like you have. I can easily just shoot this lens during the daytime for cars. You can't get the great DOF that a pro lens has, but it's light, and sharp, and 18mm is good enough 90% of the time. You already have it, so just shoot it, and enjoy it.
The one that I rarely use at a show: the 55-200mm. The reason that I don't use it as much is that you have to get farther back, and people walk into the photo. You can get good photos from it, and it's light, but you have to have patience with people. Chad has the Nikon pro version, the 70-200, but he also has the patience to wait to get the shot.
One thing to mention on getting low to get the shot - it looks better, but you have to make certain not to "cut the roof down" - make certain that you still get all of the car in the shot that you want. Sometimes you need to get a little farther back to get the low shots. I've made the mistake of getting too close and too low several times.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
Dude, get a 50mm 1.8 Lens, they're like 120 bux anywhere.
You can take some awesome pics with 0 skills or manual settings required. hahaha!
Of couse it's probably useful to learn it, but I guess it makes learning a bit more fun. It almost feels like cheating.
The best advice i can give you is to just get out and shoot. I taught myself everything from the start by shooting in manual and nothing else. You will learn over time. You dont need any expensive lenses right away though a 50mm prime would probably be nice. I still shoot with the kit lense and have gone up with people with much nicer gear than mine.
Yeah ive seen some kit expensive lens kits and still appear not to know what they are doing lol
Thrifty 50 is under $100 check B&H Photo for one
I was going to try and help but it seams like everything I was going to say has already been said haha
check out this site, it helped me a lot when I 1st started:
http://digital-photography-school.co...-for-beginners
Thanks ill check that out and thanks everyone else
ok first off, you chose canon so there was your first mistake lol. just kidding. as far as white balance goes, shoot in raw and auto white balance then adjust in post. i would recommend lightroom3 or 4 if you have windows 7.
Id love a Nikon but a the deal on this was to good and nah i have Vista
you can get lightroom3 i know for sure. check adobes website to see if LR4 will work on vista. i have XP so LR4 is out for me.
I'm on W7, but still use LR3 w/Nik plug-ins. I still find that I edit in PS though when I need to really improve a shot.
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting." - Steve McQueen
UGH I tried using my settings a little today adjusting my TV and AV and I was lost on getting anything to comply
Would someone dumbify explain the settings for each please ?
UGH I tried using my settings a little today adjusting my TV and AV and I was lost on getting anything to comply
Would someone dumbify explain the settings for each please ?
TV is shutter priority, AV is aperture priority.
TV you set your preferred shutter speed and the camera will take care of the rest. AV you set your preferred aperture value and the camera takes care of the rest.
For now use strictly AV mode so you can get a good feel of the camera and what role aperture plays in photography (a big role at that). leave your ISO to auto, color balance auto, JPEG fine... and just shoot. Like Andy stated its pretty much about composition that will make or break the image.
To simply things even further for you. In AV mode select your desired aperture value and shoot. Lower number numbers give you a shallower depth of field whereas higher numbers gets more in focus; Ex. If your shooting a group of people and you want everyone to be in focus shoot at a higher F stop (or higher number) .. if your trying to shoot a person standing in a crowd and want only that person to be in focus use a lower F stop (or smaller number). Im sure this is alot to take in at once, but only with practice and experience will you really understand it all.
Thats the least of worries with me I have an OCD for wanting crisp images....I wanna see the rock chip in the paint lol
LR4 is nice!
Hook me up with a Free version of LR4 ??
Using my CS4 to try cleaning up a lil hows this for a first try ?
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