Quote Originally Posted by ranger250x
Yeah the grips have got to go even though they looks nice. Any particular areas on the inside that need mabey more/less lube? Disassembly is suprisingly easy. Not much to these guns, but I guess that is the reason they have stood the test of time.

field striping is easy. i prefer the captive method of field striping. The manuals usually tell you to take the bushing out, and the spring and all that goodness. To save wear on a well fitted bushing just slide the slide back to the take down notch, pull the slide stop out. Then take the slide off, wrap your fingers around the underside of the slide to catch the spring so it doesn't go flying. Reverse for reassembly. Just personal preference mostly.


lube. I use a q tip and slip 2000. Lube the frame/slide rails, cocking lug on the bottom side of the slide, and then all the fire control pieces. Make sure to lube specifically the sear nose and hammer face and notches where the sear slides. Also i thinkyour gun is parkerized, least it looks like it is, so you will need to detail strip and lube the whole frame and slide (all the black) every so often. Parkerizing holds oil, this is what gives it its antirust properties, and if all the oil dries up the gun will start to get surface rust. This isnt anything to worry about, just every so often whip it down with some gun oil, let it soak in, then whip the excess off.

This isnt the end all be all lube method, but its what i do.

I detail strip mine after shootinging it. In reaility you dont need to field strip and clean but every 800-1000 rounds, and detail strip ever 3000 rounds or so. But i have alot of money tied up in mine and just choose to clean and inspect very often. Also since i built mine it gives me time to inspect wear, and make sure everything is still good to go.