Who Puts A 2JZ Into An FD???

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Originally Posted by cgEvan

Correct me if I'm wrong, because well, I know nothing of rotaries :D , but aren't multiple rotor motors pretty large... like stuffing an inline 6 in or something?

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Rotaries arent light....not at all. its their compact size that gives them an advantage, they can be pushed further back toward the firewall to achieve that 50/50 weight balance. Adding additional rotors does indeed hinder that balance.....but there are always means of adjusting suspension components to compensate

has anyone on here actually DRIVEN a 2jz swapped fd? On a road course?

:/

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Originally Posted by Black R

has anyone on here actually DRIVEN a 2jz swapped fd? On a road course?

:/

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99.9% have not

.1% may lie and say they have :D

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Originally Posted by Black R

has anyone on here actually DRIVEN a 2jz swapped fd? On a road course?
:/

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Not the best question because there are those of us on here that have never driven an open wheeler but can explain exactly what it does and how it does on a race track.

i guess you could also explain second-hand how to give birth too.

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Originally Posted by EJ25RUN

Not necessarily. You add a 1 more rotor and have a NA motor with 450hp (20b) or add add a 2nd rotor (r26b) and you are north of 600hp. Lightly built and tuned obviously.

I guessing the way you see hp and performance, yes a 1.2 or a 1.3 N/A rotary are just not good enough.

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12A get pretty good gas milage,but RX-7s were never built to be straight line car,which is why the rotary is good road course engine ebcause of the smooth tq curve throughout the RPMs........hell USDM FDs only ran low 14s high 13s stock.....these road course cars through and through

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Originally Posted by Sport1.3

Rotaries arent light....not at all. its their compact size that gives them an advantage, they can be pushed further back toward the firewall to achieve that 50/50 weight balance. Adding additional rotors does indeed hinder that balance.....but there are always means of adjusting suspension components to compensate

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Actually, a 12a or 13b shortblock is a lot lighter than a V6 or V8. I've moved plenty of them around over the years.

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Originally Posted by David88vert

Actually, a 12a or 13b shortblock is a lot lighter than a V6 or V8. I've moved plenty of them around over the years.

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The LS1/T56 is about the same weight as a 13Brew/tranny, and LIGHTER then a 20B/tranny.... the difference in the LS1 is about 30-90lbs depending on accessories still used. At 100lbs heavier thats still only a 3% increase in the cars total weight :dunno:

The cast iron/AL head engines are around 150 lbs heaver (with a T56) and around 225-250 lbs heavier with an auto (though the rotary is heavier with an auto too, obviously).

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Originally Posted by Sport1.3

Anything is better than a rotary

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:stupid:

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Originally Posted by Sport1.3

The LS1/T56 is about the same weight as a 13Brew/tranny, and LIGHTER then a 20B/tranny.... the difference in the LS1 is about 30-90lbs depending on accessories still used. At 100lbs heavier thats still only a 3% increase in the cars total weight :dunno:

The cast iron/AL head engines are around 150 lbs heaver (with a T56) and around 225-250 lbs heavier with an auto (though the rotary is heavier with an auto too, obviously).

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A shortblock 13B is a lot lighter and easier to move than a shortblock LS1 - if neither is on a stand of course. I have moved both plenty of times, and both are a lot lighter than a 302 or similar block.
I actually had a stock auto tranny that was in a 20B Cosmo. It's about the same weight as the T56.

Personally, I prefer keeping rotarys in the RX7s, and keeping 2JZs in Toyotas. You can make good reliable power with either motor.