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Thread: 91 CRX Si can't go past 3500 rpms!!!

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  1. #1
    IA Member JDMJorgie's Avatar
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    Exclamation 91 CRX Si can't go past 3500 rpms!!!

    OK just got done with rebuilding my z6 everything ran great before except for the smoke stack I had for an exhaust. Also my crank and cam sensors went out so I replaced them. Now for the problem at hand I had been driving it for about a day getting a feel for it and making sure there weren't any bugs left when it started hiccuping at around 4500 rpms. I slowed down and pulled into a parts store. It then cutoff and would not crank up again. Cel codes read an ELD and O2 sensor issue. So the next morning I found a new fuse box and put it in. No more ELD code car cranks up but I can't drive it past 3500 rpms or it completely shuts down immediately. No bogging down no skipping just dead and an occasional back fire. When I pull over and crank it up it runs fine and I can rev it all the way up at idle. But I have to granny shift it to move it around. Oh and a coolant hose keeps blowing off the backside of the intake manifold if it sits at idle too long. Not sure if there's a correlation between the two or if the hose clamp was just loose but figured I throw it in there. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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    It's all about JDM.
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    With your situation, it can be anything. The information you giving us can be a lead to a number of things. It can be your engine compression, transmission issues, wiring, ecu (you using the correct one with the proper fuel maps/air ration), fuses, grounds, maybe an air leak around the intake manifold, or fuel issues. Your best bet is to try to narrow down the problem. So you got rid of the ELD code, then work down the list.

    Next easy thing to do is to make sure all your connections to your sensors are snug and tight (not blaming who did the swap for you, but sometimes little things like this can be missed, causing your engine not to run properly).

    Check all your grounding points, the wires grounding the engine and transmission. Make sure the bolts are tight, creating a secure connection. Grab some sand paper if you have to clean the connections.

    Make sure you not having any air leaks or a clogged throttle body. Just double check the vacuum hose lines, and while your at it clean your throttle body with some carb cleaner and toothbrush/rags.

    Make sure you using the right ecu.

    Do a compression test on each cylinder. All should be consistent and hold the same values across the engine. And check if you timing is correct. Use a timing gun (buy one at Harbor Freight, cheap and useful). Check your spark plugs, wires, and distributor.
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    limp mode?
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  4. #4
    IA Member JDMJorgie's Avatar
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    Well timing is good (my buddy and I did the rebuild BTW) not really a swap just rebuilt the smoky motor. Everything was good before the rebuild I guess it just now showing its age. Since my last post I've changed the distributor with a brand spanking new one to be sure and also installed an HKS grounding kit to cancel that out as well. My next move is prob the ECU I dunno going to go over some things first. Kinda hard to find an ecu for one of these. Oh and this is the same ECU this cars had since it came out the showroom. All my gaskets, hoses and clamps are new too. Kinda hard to believe there is a leak somewhere considering that's what I was specifically not going for and made sure not to do. But I am only human. Anymore input would be appreciated thanks guys

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