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Thread: 95 civic ej1- obd1 gsr swap, knock sensor wire

  1. #1
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    Default 95 civic ej1- obd1 gsr swap, knock sensor wire

    KNOCK SENSOR FIXED...POST EDITED PLEASE READ...NOW CODE 22

    ok so im reatarded and had the diagram backwards....kinda (refer to post #7) but anyway knock sensor and IAB are all good now......took som1 mentioning there shouldnt be a wire in the slot at all.....duh i swear im such a noob sometimes, lol

    now i am throwing code 22, but only when i really really get in her an take her to 7500 or so and then CEL all day....now i know its oil pressure switch....i hav and EX (ej1) so its already wired (if im correct? theres def a wire in D6), so idk if this is an ECU issue or a sensor goin bad...

    history- this oil pressure switch (not the plug side but in the actual inside of sensor, right where the green plasit meets metal) snapped in half and oh i yeah i super glued it back together, so im sure thats the issue (refer to WTB; oild pressure switch on IA.com lol) but idk it broke off very clean and went back to gether well and still attched an YES it does kill it in VTEC but only till CEL22, then limp

    any ideas?....lmk thanks
    Last edited by pacocrix; 03-09-2012 at 11:01 PM.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    single wire from the knock sensor to d3 on the ecu side..

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    there is a way to by pass this CEL if you're interested...

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    ok so when i cut wire at plug D3 i just plug that wire back up dont hook back up the other end of wire.....if that makes any sense

    yes if i cant get this to go away i would like to know how, but would perfer to run my knock sensor......i mean my motor runs great sounds a little ticky but its a gsr an the valves are loud....so idk

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    Yes.... don't tap the wire, you have no clue where it goes..lol



    Bypass method..
    http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1181854

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    I'm gonna look at it when I get home, it would be something like that AFTER I replace the knock sensor lol... Thanks bro ill follow up later

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    update-basically im a TARD, i thought the diagram i had was of the plugs, yeah not so much it was a diagram of the ECU so obviously i had D3 at like D17 or som shit, and same for IAB.........but now (refer to edited version of thread) lol

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    still got 22 when go high rpm's......any1....?

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    Where did you ground the blk wire off the pressure switch?

    EDIT: ok I was reading your edit...lol

    If you are fine, then it goes into limp then it's because it drops to much oil pressure, it's a fail-safe to keep you from blowing it up... You need to one change the oil, 2 check the level, be sure thats the right dip stick, and 3 invest in an oil pressure gauge so you can watch the oil pressure..

    If the pressure stays in the good, 60-80psi then I would check the circuit for loss of voltage and/or ground..

    And if your running the broke one it's a good chance the vibration cause a bad connect..
    Only other thing to check would be the screen behind the solenoid/pressure switch.. Remove the whole thing from the head and besure all that is clean..
    Last edited by 1civic; 03-28-2012 at 11:29 PM.

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