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Thread: weird sputtering and no power problem (95 civic)

  1. #1
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    Default weird sputtering and no power problem (95 civic)

    well i just bought an automatic 95 honda civic dx from one of my friends to use as a daily gas saver...... the original motor (d15b7) in the car was replaced due to it being hydrolocked so the former owner replaced it with a single over head cam ZC motor. the car starts fine but it idles kinda rough and i can litteraly turn the throttle body pulley to 100% WOT and it does barely anything. it doesnt even try to increase the rpms it just bogs down (but doesnt die). but if i slowly increase the throttle the rpms will rise to redline if wanted. and when under load (attempting to drive it) it sputters and has no power from 400rpm (idle i guess) to 2500 rpm (takes like 10 seconds to reach 2500rpm) but after that it accelerates fine and strong.
    the car has two codes 1 & 7 (o2 sensor and TPS)
    i replaced both sensors with NEW ones.....codes are still there... im stumped
    so i figure maybe theres a 1% chance the 2 new sensors were bad so i replaced them again with a friends known good sensors..same thing still have the codes.
    oh and also the tps is calibrated correctly and reads .45v at rest
    ive triple checked the timing belt timing and im also 100% sure that is correct as well
    oh and incase it matters the car is still using the stock p06 ecu

    i have also replaced the distributor rotor,cap,and ignitor,plugs and wires to make sure the stuttering isnt an igniton problem but it still remains....i am completely lost i am out of ideas

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    change fuel filter and try another ecu that u know is good

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    sounds like its in limp mode

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    gonna pick up a fuel filter tomorrow and pull the fuel pump and make sure the strainer/filter isnt clogged there as well. i beleive i have to find another automatic ecu to check it right? all my friends are 5 speeds :-(.... oh and i know of limp mode but i dont think the older model civic like mine have limp mode do they?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CB7tuner View Post
    gonna pick up a fuel filter tomorrow and pull the fuel pump and make sure the strainer/filter isnt clogged there as well. i beleive i have to find another automatic ecu to check it right? all my friends are 5 speeds :-(.... oh and i know of limp mode but i dont think the older model civic like mine have limp mode do they?
    Not 100% sure if your model does but i would think any car with ECU could go into limp mode to protect the engine. My 93 Accord did when my ecu started to go bad one night and yeah find a auto ecu to test. My accord also had a same issue with the power not being there i compared it to a plane on take off id hold the throttle open and it had to build up to rev.

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    a 5 speed ecu will work to test it ,u will havre to tap the gas to get it to change gears , and u can also rent a fuel pressure gauge to test psi.long story short a buddy of mine pulled his motor to have a motor mount repaird , put it back in and did same thiing as yours , took us 3 weeks after work to figure it out , where the fuel line bolts to fuel rail he used a regular washer and not copper . , so it could be anything really . gl man

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    Quote Originally Posted by dirk-diggler View Post
    a 5 speed ecu will work to test it ,u will havre to tap the gas to get it to change gears , and u can also rent a fuel pressure gauge to test psi.long story short a buddy of mine pulled his motor to have a motor mount repaird , put it back in and did same thiing as yours , took us 3 weeks after work to figure it out , where the fuel line bolts to fuel rail he used a regular washer and not copper . , so it could be anything really . gl man
    awesome i'll try the ecu then as well, but maybe i missed it what ended up being the problem with your buddys car?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dirk-diggler View Post
    where the fuel line bolts to fuel rail he used a regular washer and not copper . , so it could be anything really . gl man

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    where the fuel line bolts to fuel rail he used a regular washer .........and it needed to be copper , it was a hair to thick causeing it to only alil bit of fuel

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    its ur tps for sure...its whats wrong with my prelude i think


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    Update I changed the fuel filter today and took the injectors out to inspect them for debris.... The car idles a tiny bit better but it is still sluggish to rise in RPMs like it was. I also swapped Ecu's and it made no difference. But for some reason the TPS (code 7 is gone now) but the o2 sensor (code 1) is still there. Weird

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    Check fuel pressure, cause low pressure will start car but not run car!!

    Check timing, cause most people mix up the alignment on the cam, newer ZC is not straight across I don't think.. Look it up if unsure!

    Check valve lash, cause to tight will not run

    and do a leak down if you can..

  13. #13
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    Yeah I checked the timing it is strange how the zc lines up but I'm sure that it is correct. Fuel pressure is fine but I have not done a compression/leakdown test I didn't see it nessesary before since it doesn't burn any fluids but I guess it's my only option at this point

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    Ive seen alot in my years.. Intake leaks, bent rods, valves, valve lash to tight, weak pump, crap ecu's, dizzy's 180 out, etc... LOL

    Check, double, and triple check.. Never assume anything is good!!

    Throwing parts at is is the quickest way to check, but having good parts is the hard part..

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    If you run threw leak down and it's good then check for intake leak, bad spark plug, injector.. If it has a miss at idel, pull each plug wire to find out which cylinder it is.. If it was a TPS or Map it would not rev over 4-5K, AND worst case be sure the last people did not change any pin outs!!


    p.s
    Upload a video so we can get an idea of how it runs.. ) :

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    check the big three.

    is it getting fuel?
    is it getting air?
    is it getting spark?

    it sounds like a spark or tps problem. im leaning towards TPS considering you had a code for it.

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