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Thread: Trouble starting dc2 gsr

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    Default Trouble starting dc2 gsr

    Need some help.... please! I've got a 95 dc2 with an obd2 gsr swap, the car will start just fine and run fine when the motor is cold. After a good drive and its warmed up, the car has trouble are re starting. While warmed up the car will run just fine, only have problems after cutting it off. I've changed the dizzy and the plugs. Anybody have any thoughts? On top of all this, been having over heating problems. Have changed the thermostat, and grabbed a half mount radiator from a civic. It turns out the fan on the old teggy radiator was not working. The fan on the half mount cuts on if it gets hot enough, but the car still tends to over heat. When it does I have to add water, but haven't found any leaks. Almost like it boils out. Help in either of these issues would be great... sorry so long though.

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    Road to All Motor10s *EFilliated*'s Avatar
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    Sounds like a blown headgasket, the leak may be internal and u may not see it leaking onto the outside of the block
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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    HEADGASKET IS BLOWN

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    I was scared that might have been some of the responses, the motor was recently rebuilt. I guess I would narrow it down to the head not being torqued down properly, or maybe just a cheap gasket that came with my kit? it is a metal one with multi layers, but the oil pump with the kit was garbage for sure. Makes me wonder.

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    If it is the head gasket, any recommendations on where to get a good one at a reasonable price? Keep in mind I fully intend in boosting once I work out the bugs.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmraceboi View Post
    If it is the head gasket, any recommendations on where to get a good one at a reasonable price? Keep in mind I fully intend in boosting once I work out the bugs.

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    HONDA... Also be sure to have the head resurfaced, along with checking the straightness of the deck (block), use a straight edge and filler gauge, service limits are listed in Service manual...

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    OEM. HONDA

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmraceboi View Post
    If it is the head gasket, any recommendations on where to get a good one at a reasonable price? Keep in mind I fully intend in boosting once I work out the bugs.

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    Senior Member | IA Veteran 1civic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by *EFilliated* View Post
    OEM. HONDA
    REPS!!!

    OEM FTW

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    Hey guys, I really appreciate the input... only thing left is to get it done. Just curious though, why is it making it hard to start?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdmraceboi View Post
    Hey guys, I really appreciate the input... only thing left is to get it done. Just curious though, why is it making it hard to start?

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    Number of reason, But simple answer could be Once hot it looses compression..

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    as 1civic stated loss of compression. im thinking as the car gets to operating temp the amount of coolant entering each cylinder increases making it harder to start with coolant on top of the pistons. engines cannot compress liquids.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdmraceboi View Post
    Hey guys, I really appreciate the input... only thing left is to get it done. Just curious though, why is it making it hard to start?

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    Newbie Photodude RBS's Avatar
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    get a Autozone gasket, if the job is done properly to begin with a gasket is a gasket; Oil pumps are a different story.

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    Ok so now I've just gotten a cometic headgasket but the gasket holes for coolant to run thru the open deck don't match my block guard. It just seems to me that this would cause a problem. Is this something to be concerned about, before I bolt the head down and have the same problem.

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    On second thought coolant may not even travel there but the holes still don't match... lookin for some help

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    What makes yall lead to the conclusion that it might be the headgasket? Does ignition skip? White smoke out the exhaust pipe? Water/oil mixture?
    resize pic

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    Yeah its all at the beginning of the post... overheating.. would only crank when cold...losing water... no leaks... white smoke when basically forcing to crank, seemed to be burning the water off

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    Right now I'm wondering about the holes on the gasket not perfectly matching the block guard

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    Does any body know if this will cause me problems?

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    if the holes dont line up the gasket will not seal period.
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    take out the block guard! a lot of people but not all have had problems with these as some engines ive bought i took em out and used felpro parts store mls gasket and be sure the letters UP on the gasket are up! i've personally used 18 psi with devcon liquid aluminum filled blocks about 1/4" below sleeves and drilled it to match gasket and some smaller extra holes & auto store felpro mls gasket and golden eagle head studs for over 6 years now and never had a problem with mine or my customers as the devcon dries it becomes part of the block kind of like aluminum JB weld! pulled the head off one with the devcon to part out of a wrecked car that had it done about 4 years ago and was still like it was when i installed it! also had no brace on many blocks for years at 14 psi. if there not installed right and just hammered in then block decked it can distort sleeves some what and make sealing impossible. if you want to do it right the brace should always be pressed in 1/8-1/4 inch below sleeve deck then decked so coolant will still flow between head and block no matter if the holes line up and deck the head .010 to make damn sure has never failed me in the last 15 years! sorry so long just trying to put it out there! good luck with it!
    LET ME GUESS... YOU MISSED A GEAR!

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    Ok I REALLY NEED SOME HELP ASAP... I've replaced the head gasket with a cosmetic gasket, but the car seems to do the same thing. Cranks just fine but once its hot it has some real trouble trying to crank again. I've replaced the head gasket, dizzy, radiator, thermostat...( was overheating at first). I'm at a total loss now, any input would be greatly appreciated!!

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    Cometic*

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    Also wanted to add that the dizzy does get very hot, hotter than I think it should... why I replaced it. Also the dizzy is pushed all the way towards the intake side... when I got my n/a tune, that's where the tuner set it to do the tune. Think this might be causing some problems?

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    Does anybody know what might be goin on?!?

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