Stumped! Civic won't start.

[00Civic]

So.....after I had taken care of the idling issue in my car, I proceeded to take the car around , test driving it. I was on my way to Honda when the rpm tachmeter was bouncing all over the place, and the dashboard went out ( no fan, no light, nothing ). The car died shortly thereafter.

I had my bro come out and jump started the car. It took a good bit for it to get it to start. He took off the battery ground to test the alternator and it died.

I had to get the car towed back to my house. Anyways, I took off the alternator and took it to Autozone and apparently it passed. So, at this point, I'm thinking it's a bad connection source or bad ground somewhere.

I get home, and test grounds from the battery, then tested the ground from the fuse box to the alternator ground and it was still good. I also checked every wire on the alternator connector and it was good. So, this tells me that it's not a connection source ( but i may be wrong ).

Also checked the IG 1 fuse and the battery fuse. Both were good.

At this point....I'm not sure what to even look for next. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[*EFilliated*]

so the ground that is bolted by a 10mm on the alternator is good? had dis happen on my hatch with same exact symptoms

[00Civic]

Yea it was good. Someone advised that it may be the alternator because Autozone doesn't test the alternator under load. I'm going to get another alternator to make sure it isn't the issue.

[psycho_freke]

I really think Advance Auto Parts tests alternators under load

[silversol]

I had this issue before and it was a poped fuse under the dash.

[im_hung]

Check fuse 15 under the dash. If that is blown then you have a wire issue behind the intake manifold. There's a Service Bulletin on it.

[00Civic]

Check fuse 15 under the dash. If that is blown then you have a wire issue behind the intake manifold. There's a Service Bulletin on it.

I actually checked fuse 15 last night, and it wasn't blown. I've been driving my civic all day, the alternator is still good, and the battery is charging, so no problems there.

I'm getting some bogging at low rpm's (500-1500) but after that, no bogging and it drives just dandy. I'm guessing the unplugged primary and secondary o2 sensors are causing the bogging.

Hung, can you link me to the service bulletin? Thanks!

[00Civic]

I have an intake that doesn't have a bung to insert a sensor that I currently have out in the open. I'm attaching a picture of the sensor. What should I do with it? Zip tie it somewhere and leave it out in the open? Someone said something about cutting the sensor and using the 2 wires attached to it and wiring it to another connector that goes to the back of the intake manifold?

[Eman_jDm]

My car did something similar. Turned out it was a loose ground connection that goes on the transmission. Maybe that could be it or the valve cover ground too.

[00Civic]

Hey guys.....again, slight issue with the car.

I've been having a very very slight rough idle with my car. It bogs at really low rpms ( less than 2000 ).

I just changed out the spark plugs with new ones (NGK's), and the idling seems to be worse? Yes, the plugs are in the right firing order, if anyone was wondering. I checked on it as well.

Here is the old spark plug that I pulled out. All 4 were similar.

[00Civic]

helllllpppppp

[DeeAOne]

I had this problem, in my old accord though. Turned out to be a ground on the thermostat housing. I'm not even sure if civics have one in the same spot. You could check though.

[CaTcH22]

^^^ beat me to it.

[GlennsEK]

I'm not even sure what else it could be now .

[JF868849]

I had this problem, in my old accord though. Turned out to be a ground on the thermostat housing. I'm not even sure if civics have one in the same spot. You could check though.

x2 on civics i believe its on the bottom thermostat housing its like 5 grounds i believe their injector grounds? anyways they all go to one 10mm bolt on the top of the thermo housing check that and if u need any help ill ride over since im in wr too and help u out just lmk mane

[00Civic]

UPDATE:

I went and got my exhaust gap welded, so now it's quiet. Also, it stopped bogging at idle, so all is well. I just need new wheels, new lowering springs ( I hate the f'kin coilovers - too bouncy for my taste ), and need to wire up the oxygen sensor.

Although, I do have one question. I currently don't have a primary o2 sensor, but the secondary is plugged in. I have 4 wires that is cut and I'm assuming that it's for the primary o2 sensor. My header does not have a bung in it to accommodate the o2 sensor. Should I make a bung or is there a way to bypass the primary sensor? Or can I wire the primary to the secondary so it reads as one?

Any input is appreciated

[1civic]

UPDATE:

I went and got my exhaust gap welded, so now it's quiet. Also, it stopped bogging at idle, so all is well. I just need new wheels, new lowering springs ( I hate the f'kin coilovers - too bouncy for my taste ), and need to wire up the oxygen sensor.

Although, I do have one question. I currently don't have a primary o2 sensor, but the secondary is plugged in. I have 4 wires that is cut and I'm assuming that it's for the primary o2 sensor. My header does not have a bung in it to accommodate the o2 sensor. Should I make a bung or is there a way to bypass the primary sensor? Or can I wire the primary to the secondary so it reads as one?

Any input is appreciated

is the ECU OBD 1 or 2? If obd2 you will need both up stream and down stream to pass emissions and not throw a cell, if the ecu is OBD 1 then you only need the O2 before the cat... From what I read it sounds like you need an O2 before the cat, so yes go have a bung installed!! LOL

[00Civic]

I have an OBD 2 ecu, and I don't need to pass emissions. It isn't enforced here in this part of Georgia.

[1civic]

I have an OBD 2 ecu, and I don't need to pass emissions. It isn't enforced here in this part of Georgia.

If mine I would have the bung installed before the cat also!!!