replacing a headgasket

[Go_Fast]

i'm just about ready to pull the head on my motor and i had a few questions for some of you more experienced honda techs.

my questions:

how do i know when piston #1 is at TDC?
should i turn the crank towards the intake or exhaust end?

once the head is removed how can i check for cracks in the block?
are there any specific spots that are more prone to cracking?
can i turn the crank to check to check #1 & #4 for cracks?

can i use degreaser on ALL engine components as long as their cleaned correctly?
if not, want CAN'T i use it on?

once i get the head off, how do i view the rods and crank?

also, i disconnected my spark wires from my distributor (labeled them all first) then layed them aside... then i read your not supposed to... is that just so you dont get them mixed up or will they no longer work?



those are all the questions i have for now, any help is much appreciated.
thanks in advance

[xero_xero]

year, make, model and engine code would help.

obd2 single cams are easier than obd1/0 single cams.
b/h series are the same as obd1/o single cams.

96-2000 D series engines have markers on the crank pulley and a sight on the drivers/timing belt side of the motor.

this is the same on all d/h/b series. omce you pull the crank pulley you will see this.



you can also use a long screw driver. remove the spark plug in cylinder1. place a long screw driver in the sprak plug tube. rotate the crank BY HAND until it reaches its highest point. TDC. you may also be able to rely on the Cam gear. it has UP and arrows to show tdc on the top end.
B AND H below


D series


once you remove the head, this is what it should look like if you set it at tdc

[Go_Fast]

year, make, model and engine code would help.

haha sorry i forgot about that its a 95 integra GSR, B18b block, B16a head

you can also use a long screw driver. remove the spark plug in cylinder1. place a long screw driver in the sprak plug tube. rotate the crank BY HAND until it reaches its highest point. TDC. you may also be able to rely on the Cam gear. it has UP and arrows to show tdc on the top end.

should i turn the crank towards the intake or exhaust side? if i pass the TDC point can i just twist the crank back a little or should i make a full revolution?

once you remove the head, this is what it should look like if you set it at tdc

can i rotate the crank once i get here?
is there any way to see the rods and crank from here or is more disassembly required?

[xero_xero]

drop your headers and oil pan. you can see crank and rods on the bottom end. yes you can rotate the block while the head is off. just mind TDC on the block and cams. you will have to pull the cams to remove the head.

is there any particular reason you are pulling the head?

I would bet that it is an Over heating problem.

LSVtecs often have headg askett and dowel alignment issues.

[Go_Fast]

is there any particular reason you are pulling the head?

this is why

[wrekonize]

your head gaskets gone buddy....
with the head off turn the crank and if the pistons dont go up even then the rod bearings are out...
and if you rotate and the piston doesnt move the rods broke.....

this is why

[gsrcivic]

ur wires will still work and on the clean it just depends u can use degreaser and water on the out side if the block(have the oil pan on and if the head is off cover the top of the block with a clean towel if ur cleaning the pistons, rods, cams, etc. use mineral oil... and if ur breaking the block down and taking pistons out then it wouldnt hurt for some new rings anf honing the cylinders and if u break down the head fully i would recommend bearing grease ( auto parts has it and its red) when assembling and remember to TTS

[Go_Fast]

thanks for the help so far guys i really appreciate it. any tips for checking for cracks?

[wrekonize]

thanks for the help so far guys i really appreciate it. any tips for checking for cracks?

the only way to check is to disassemble the entire bottom end and look at the walls for cracks

[Cynical 1]

have you checked your oil cooler?

you should have an oil cooler that the oil filter screws onto. sometimes they fail, and you get a gooey mess like that from coolant entering the oil...

just a thought...

[94_teg_ls]

have you checked your oil cooler?

you should have an oil cooler that the oil filter screws onto. sometimes they fail, and you get a gooey mess like that from coolant entering the oil...

just a thought...

unless he added one i dont think he has one

[98blackcivic]

looks like someone dumped pudding n ur engine!

[Black4DrEK]

If your oil looked like that, I would replace the Bearings also. Hell, that motor needs an overhaul. IMO.

[EmminoDaGreat]

good advice, as coolant will eat engine bearings. But some of this thread makes me lol.

[Black4DrEK]

good advice, as coolant will eat engine bearings. But some of this thread makes me lol.

Yea.. And it doesnt take long.

[EmminoDaGreat]

btw do you have headstuds? since its turbo, the extra cylinder pressures can cause stock bolts to stretch.

[xero_xero]

btw do you have headstuds? since its turbo, the extra cylinder pressures can cause stock bolts to stretch.

Agreed.

[Go_Fast]

btw do you have headstuds? since its turbo, the extra cylinder pressures can cause stock bolts to stretch.

ARP headstuds