All the h22 info you need to build a beast

[h22 jones]

Since h2b seems to be the new thing i figured built h2b would be even better. I have checked and out of all the b series sticky threads that makes building a engine so easy there is not one on a h series . People are scared of what they dont know and people like to have something to go by when there building there motor .To clear up a few things a h22 block and a h23 block are exactly the same no difference at all. They were both cast from the same mold . If you decide to use a h23 block the only thing you have to do is pull the tiny oil restrictor out the top of the block so the vtec head can get enough oil to engage vtec . It is in the center of the block all you have to do is hand screw a 8mm blot in it and pull up thats all. If you decide to run a h23 crank you have to bend the oil squirters so they want hit the threw on the crank . If you running floating rist pin rods (odds are if your building your motor you will run floating rist pin rods ) then you dont need the oil squirters at all so just take them out . I never run oil squirters less friction on the crank (oil falling back down after being squirted onto the rods) means more hp. The first thing they ask is how much hp will this set up make .For starters im going to give a couple different combinations to get different compression with different pistonsd and cranks. This is with a stock head gasket which compresses at .026 thousandth and nothing taken off the block or head. Then i will list a couple different set ups i have done and how much hp they made plus times they run at the track.

usdm h22 10.0
jdm h22 10.6
jdm h23 10.6 9 ( my dad cc one the other day )
type s h22 11.1

h23 pistons have a different rist pin displacement then h22 pistons causing 1. of compression if you run h22 pistons on h23 crank and h23 rods. If you run any of these set ups your piston will stick out the block aproximately .020 . Remeber you have .026 of head gasket plus about .030 worth of lip in the head there is plenty of clearence you could even shave a little if you wanted a little more compression but i would recomend claying the motor if you take anymore off then what im suggesting. There is not a piston to valve interference problem but i do suggest taking a dremel and opening up the valve reliefs(they dont need to be deeper just take some off the back) just a little just in case you break your timing belt it will help preventing bent valves but you dont have to .

h23 crank,h23 rods,h22 usdm pistons 11.0
h23 crank,h23 rods,h22 jdm pistons 11.6
h23 crank,h23 rods,h22 type s pistons 12.1

As you can see if you want to make a nice all motor set up you can get alot of compression with stock h series parts. Also just to help everybody out a f22 crank and rods is the same part number as a h23 crank and rods they are the same thing so there is you a cheap crank and rods to start your build with.

Now here is a couple simple 225-230 hp motors i have built very cheap then i will go from there.

h22 crank
h22 rods
type s pistons (11.1 compression)
skunk2 stage 2 cams
euro r intake
70mm throttle body
kidd racing header (rmf)
stock head
balance shaft removal kit
2.5 half inch ebay exaust
three inch intake
t2t4 f20b trany
227hp
ran low 13s with this in a cx hatchtrany never went in second right

h23 crank
h23 rods
type s pistons (12.1 compression)
skunk2 stage 2 cams
kidd racing header (rmf)
stock head
balance shaft removal kit
stock intake
stock f20b 65mm throttle body
2.5 inch muffler shop exaust
three inch cold air intake
m2b4 trany
231 hp (25 more hp across the mid range due mainly to the longer stroke crank)
ran 12.8 in si hatch complete interior

As you can see there are some very simple all motor builds you can do with a h22 motor. I have never went h2b (although i am in the process of building on now) but from my understand there suppose to take about a half a tenth off your time so minus half a tenth on any off the set ups above for h2b . Also because of the gearing h2b is worth about ten more dyno hp so add ten hp to each set up for h2b. Make sure you do the balance shaft elimination there good for up to 10 dyno hp which you will not get anywere esle for 130
dollars.I had to cut the dome off my 11.5 cp pistons to get them down to 12.3 compression because of running them on h23 crank and h23rods . Remeber that adding 1. for h22 pistons only applies to what i listed when you start boring or shaving the head and block everything changes . Also the further in the head the piston goes everything changes because of the shape of the cumbuston chamber.

Here is a couple 250 plus hp motor i have had a hand in .

H22 crank
h22 crower rods
h22 weisco 11.5 compression 88mm pistons
skunk2 intake
70mm throttle body
skunk2 pro2 cams
port and polished head (by my dad )
kidd racing header (rmf)
full 3 inch exaust
3 inch intake
balance shft removal kit
h2b b16 trany
252 hp
ran high 12s in cx hatch also had trouble with trany

H23 crank
h23 crower rods
11.5 h22 88mm cp pistons (had to cut the doom off the pistons to get 12.3 compression)
golden eagle dropp in sleeves
skunk2 stage 2 cams
port and polished head (by my dad )
port and polished stock intake (by my dad )
kidd racing header (rmf)
2.5 muffler shop exaust
3 inch cold air intake
h series t2t4 trany off a f20b
252hp (about 25 more hp across the midrange because of the larger crank i beleive)
running 12.3 in si hatch complete interior