Rb's

[B00stLek]

I want in and outs of all the rb's hp ranges, problems, and swap problems in S13

[sean8564]

not to many problems the
RB20 is rated 215 BHp
RB25 is rated 250 Bhp
Rb26 is the grandaddy of them all 280 Hp

all of them are straight 6
to install it into a S-13
you need eather R32 crossmember
or a set of mounts from eather Top hat or mckinney
the RB25 you need a driveshaft made as well
the RB26 you need a custom DP if you want to keep twin turbos
RB20 Tranny for 400 HP RB25 Tranny for more like 700 Hp
and a Rb25 oil pan plus a drive shaft.
then just the wiring harness and if you want a tach for a 6 cyl

[B00stLek]

thanks

[sean8564]

If you have more questions just ask

[HalfBaked]

The problem with an rb20 is that it is a piece of shit.

Super heavy motor with shitty displacement.

[sean8564]

Seems to work very well in the R32.

[HalfBaked]

Seems to work very well in the R32.

The gts is a piece of shit.

[sean8564]

[Maki]

rb24 ftw. Oh yeah and i have mounts all day long......

[Krazykouki]

Don't do an RB. If you do anything do an SR. It will cost you alot of money to get your RB where you want it to be, I know where you and Jeff want to be with your cars and its going to cost ALOT of money.

If you do choose RB's you know where I live and you know I know more about them than pretty much everyone on this site.

[sean8564]

Don't do an RB. If you do anything do an SR. It will cost you alot of money to get your RB where you want it to be, I know where you and Jeff want to be with your cars and its going to cost ALOT of money.

This is not exactly true. The RB can be made to make decent power pretty easy and parts are fairly easy to come by as well. The SR in my opinion is a very inferior motor to the RB25 which can be had for a little less than the SR motor set. By the time you add the drive shaft and mounts and install you are looking at a car that is 40BHp more torque and is faster for around the same price as a SR swap. We put a RB in to our Sileighty which is from Japan and it pulled harder and it is faster stock than a friends S-14 with a FMIC Boost controller exhaust BOV and a few other minor upgrades the 180 will pull on that car all day long. and the only aftermarket part on the motor is a HKS SSQV. The SR swap is the fanboy thing to do hell in our JDM car we are swaping out for diffrent motors.

[Krazykouki]

This is not exactly true. The RB can be made to make decent power pretty easy and parts are fairly easy to come by as well. The SR in my opinion is a very inferior motor to the RB25 which can be had for a little less than the SR motor set. By the time you add the drive shaft and mounts and install you are looking at a car that is 40BHp more torque and is faster for around the same price as a SR swap. We put a RB in to our Sileighty which is from Japan and it pulled harder and it is faster stock than a friends S-14 with a FMIC Boost controller exhaust BOV and a few other minor upgrades the 180 will pull on that car all day long. and the only aftermarket part on the motor is a HKS SSQV. The SR swap is the fanboy thing to do hell in our JDM car we are swaping out for diffrent motors.

you want my honest opinion..well..FUCK RB20/25/26...fuck SR's...

RB30 all the way...6G72 all the way...2JZGTE...all the way...

RB25 is a weak motor, its worse than the RB20..RB25 will never be what the Rb20 or 25 was...its a piece of shit...my bone stock RB 20 I had beat an RB25 car. Then my friend beat a RB26 power 240sx and him and I are just as fast as one another. My opinion...best bang for your buck is not an RB at all...

6G72 or 2JZ

[StupidBikerBoy]

you want my honest opinion..well..FUCK RB20/25/26...fuck SR's...

RB30 all the way...6G72 all the way...2JZGTE...all the way...

RB25 is a weak motor, its worse than the RB20..RB25 will never be what the Rb20 or 25 was...its a piece of shit...my bone stock RB 20 I had beat an RB25 car. Then my friend beat a RB26 power 240sx and him and I are just as fast as one another. My opinion...best bang for your buck is not an RB at all...

6G72 or 2JZ

Best bang for your buck is not an RB in most situations, but I wouldn't take any motor over my RB26. Yes 2JZ is cheaper, but thats the only advantage it has. And they don't have the powerband an RB26 has. A stock RB26 redlines over 1000 rpm higher, and can go quite higher with small amounts of work. Which is really nice when you slap a big single on it.

An RB25 is MUCH stronger than an RB20, and the RB26 is on another level. You may have outran an RB25, but that doesn't really mean anything. Hell, I outran a vette in a civic once.

I say RB25 if you're on a budget, or go all they way with the 26. You can easily put down 300+ with no issues on the stock 25 and without spending much money.

And if you are willing to crossbreed, don't bother with anything other than an LS1, its the only one worth crossbreeding IMO. Reliable 400+ HP and 25+ mpg. That is if you can get over the sound.

Oh, and an RB30 block is quite a bit taller than the other RB's and won't fit in a 240 unless don't mind running a hole on your hood or a big ole mullet hood scoop.

[Krazykouki]

Best bang for your buck is not an RB in most situations, but I wouldn't take any motor over my RB26. Yes 2JZ is cheaper, but thats the only advantage it has. And they don't have the powerband an RB26 has. A stock RB26 redlines over 1000 rpm higher, and can go quite higher with small amounts of work. Which is really nice when you slap a big single on it. On moch up, with a set of certian mounts all you have to do is trim a little off the hood reinforcement, thats it..other than that the RB30 looks like an everyday RB25.

An RB25 is MUCH stronger than an RB20, and the RB26 is on another level. You may have outran an RB25, but that doesn't really mean anything. Hell, I outran a vette in a civic once.

I say RB25 if you're on a budget, or go all they way with the 26. You can easily put down 300+ with no issues on the stock 25 and without spending much money.

And if you are willing to crossbreed, don't bother with anything other than an LS1, its the only one worth crossbreeding IMO. Reliable 400+ HP and 25+ mpg. That is if you can get over the sound.

Oh, and an RB30 block is quite a bit taller than the other RB's and won't fit in a 240 unless don't mind running a hole on your hood or a big ole mullet hood scoop.

You know how many times I have heard that before?..LOL..I can make an RB30 fit with no problems. Shit I helped make a VH45DETT with a 5 speed fit into a 300zx...it runs and drives today..and everyday...for the past 2 years....yes...we did have to cut the hood on that but everyone said it could not be done. The RB30 isnt but about an inch taller than the RB20 if the RB25DE head is used.

Im not going to talk to much shit about it but I know if I put 5g's into 6g72 or an rb26...with the RB26 being in a 240sx chassis...the 6g72 will destroy the the RB26.

RB period in a 240sx is not smart...to do it right and get correct power you need ALOT of money..thing about..one KEY factor is its a front sump engine in the 240sx...you need a custom pan...thats 1200+/- right there. Mount kits, wiring, etc..etc..etc..SR is cheaper and its faster in a 240sx.

[Capt._Ron]

It all depends on what you want to do with the car. The light weight sr will give you as close to a 50/50 weight ratio but the rb does have 2 more cylinders and an extra .5 liter. but its an iron block. Just say no to the rb 20 its pointless.

[StupidBikerBoy]

It all depends on what you want to do with the car.

Deffinately

Just say no to the rb 20 its pointless.

Not entirely true. General rule of thumb, more valve surface = more power.

But the other advantages of the SR usually outweigh the advantages of the rb20. Personally, if wouldn't do an RB swap unless it was atleast a 25.

[HalfBaked]

Why waste your time with an rb25. I'd rather rb20 then 25. Just for the fact that the 20 atleast revs high.

[StupidBikerBoy]

Why waste your time with an rb25. I'd rather rb20 then 25. Just for the fact that the 20 atleast revs high.

Whats the redline on the 20? Never dealt with one. I know the 25 redlines at 7k right? About the same as a 2JZ

[Krazykouki]

nuff said.

[sean8564]

Now I saw a cool swap when i visited my friend who works for nissan North America they had a 350Z that was built by Nismo and Zexal in japan it had a NUr spec RB26 and it was AWD the motor looked and fit beautiful in the car I think I have some Picsk of the motor in a Option magazine. but the car was built for the pike peak race

[zoborax]

How about a NEO RB25DET? Comes with 280 hp stock in the R34 GTT skyline. Probably a bit pricey though

[sebastianHoff]

firstly, redline on the r33 rb25 is 6850 rpm, i have seen it with an ohm meter not a tach. the rb20 redline is lower than that (its like 6800 or 6700), more bs started by unstable (if you dont know who unstable is get the fuck out) and carried on by others to sell the cheaper swap to people who didnt know better.
-all the r32 motors and the r33 rb20/25(nissan put rb20s in r33s and r34s, they are used as fleet vehical) all have the same oil pump crank snout problem.
-the r32 rb26 has been known to have problems with crank walk, WHEN THE FACTORY SPEC BOTTOM END WAS PUSHED PAST 9K RPM IN GROUP A RACING. you will be hard pressed to find a well maintained r32 rb26 that has any of these issues, look at "the snails" old car.
-a smart person would use the rb26 oil pan by removing the driveshaft bits and getting the holes pluged. people pay $150+ finned aluminium oil pans for srs, you could make one for your rb less than the cost of a 25 oil pan.
-the r32/r33 rb20/25 motors have the exact same problems when it comes to the ring lands. both have weak pistons/rods and both have the same shit turbo.
-both motors were overrated from the factory, the rb25 actually makes around 230hp and the rb20 makes less than 200hp. the sr did make 202hp so yeah the rb20 actually makes less power than a redtop.
-it is easy to bring both motors up to factory specs by changing plugs and bumping the timing.
-the rb25 trans will hold more than 1000hp, the rb20 trans is a ka/sr trans with a diff bell. there are 600-700hp srs using the factory trans.
-rb30 block is like 1" taller than the 25/26 block. use a 26 top end or a greddy manifold on a 25 and you dont need to adjust the mounts. use the factory 25 plumbing and you need that extra inch. most people go to a solid mount thats 1" shorter than the factory rubber mount. since theres an 1.5" between the oil pan and the xmember in a 240 i think that would do it.

i cant speak for the dsm motor, its "greatness" probably has more to the awd system it was matched with, kinda like a gtr being great because of attessa. you get no arguement from me about the 2j. they are expensive though, a 2j with the 6spd trans will run you north of $5500. the rb25 neo has a gtr bottom end(non of the old problems) and a stronger trans. nad auto is selling neo front cuts for $3500 plus shipping, so which is cheaper? $2k will buy you a stupid big turbo and the injectors to go with it. personally i like my redtop and in the search for more power there is a reason im dumping the rb25 for a domestic v8.

[Krazykouki]

firstly, redline on the r33 rb25 is 6850 rpm, i have seen it with an ohm meter not a tach. the rb20 redline is lower than that (its like 6800 or 6700), more bs started by unstable (if you dont know who unstable is get the fuck out) and carried on by others to sell the cheaper swap to people who didnt know better.

LOL@ STATEMENT...you obviously have never worked on an RB before. You know nothing.

-all the r32 motors and the r33 rb20/25(nissan put rb20s in r33s and r34s, they are used as fleet vehical) all have the same oil pump crank snout problem.

There again you are incorrect. Late model RB's did NOT have the crank snout issue.

-the r32 rb26 has been known to have problems with crank walk, WHEN THE FACTORY SPEC BOTTOM END WAS PUSHED PAST 9K RPM IN GROUP A RACING. you will be hard pressed to find a well maintained r32 rb26 that has any of these issues, look at "the snails" old car.

ANOTHER incorrect statement. It DOES NOT HAVE FUCKING CRANK WALK!...Crank walk is caused from the pressure plate on the clutch, RB25 has more crank issues than any. They have Valve Float.

-a smart person would use the rb26 oil pan by removing the driveshaft bits and getting the holes pluged. people pay $150+ finned aluminium oil pans for srs, you could make one for your rb less than the cost of a 25 oil pan.

That would be one ghetto looking oil pan.

-the r32/r33 rb20/25 motors have the exact same problems when it comes to the ring lands. both have weak pistons/rods and both have the same shit turbo.

How could they have the same exact problems? RB25/26 share same Dome toped piston. RB20 has Flat tops. Very different from the RB25/26.

-both motors were overrated from the factory, the rb25 actually makes around 230hp and the rb20 makes less than 200hp. the sr did make 202hp so yeah the rb20 actually makes less power than a redtop.

FSM says differently. So do dyno results. Check bottom of post.

-it is easy to bring both motors up to factory specs by changing plugs and bumping the timing.

Um...no...over time you loose compression...valve springs loose rate....valve seats dont seal properly....sensors get old...

-the rb25 trans will hold more than 1000hp, the rb20 trans is a ka/sr trans with a diff bell. there are 600-700hp srs using the factory trans.

Incorrect. Ka gearing is different. RB25 gearing and 300zx Gearing are very similar and RB25 trans can RELIABLY handle 800. That has been proven many times.

-rb30 block is like 1" taller than the 25/26 block. use a 26 top end or a greddy manifold on a 25 and you dont need to adjust the mounts. use the factory 25 plumbing and you need that extra inch. most people go to a solid mount thats 1" shorter than the factory rubber mount. since theres an 1.5" between the oil pan and the xmember in a 240 i think that would do it.

JESUS FUCKING CRIST...IF YOU USE THE FUCKING RB26 HEAD..YOU HAVE TO USE THE SPACER OR HAVE HEAD WORK DONE. IT IS NOT AN RB30 WITH AN RB26 HEAD. IT IS ONLY A FULL RB30 WITH A RB25DE HEAD.

THE FUCKING MOTOR WILL CLEAR THE HOOD WITH ALL STOCK MANIFOLD. YOU ALSO FORGOT THAT WHEN USING THE SKYLINE CROSSMEMBER THE MOTOR SITS OVER AN INCH HIGHER THAN JUST USING MOUNTS. EVEN THEN YOU CANNOT LOWER THE MOTOR ANYMORE, THE SWAY BAR WILL HIT THE OIL PAN.

i cant speak for the dsm motor, its "greatness" probably has more to the awd system it was matched with, kinda like a gtr being great because of attessa. you get no arguement from me about the 2j. they are expensive though, a 2j with the 6spd trans will run you north of $5500. the rb25 neo has a gtr bottom end(non of the old problems) and a stronger trans. nad auto is selling neo front cuts for $3500 plus shipping, so which is cheaper? $2k will buy you a stupid big turbo and the injectors to go with it. personally i like my redtop and in the search for more power there is a reason im dumping the rb25 for a domestic v8.

Im sorry dude, but I think you know nothing about RB's. Im not saying I know it all but its obvious you have never worked on them, you are obviously going by what people have said..what magazines have said and what other kids on the internet have said. I can tell you OEM AMERICAN alternators you can buy to fit RB's, coils, throttle bodies, sensor compatability, injectors..etc..etc..basically, I know my fucking shit and what color it is.

[TheSnail]

lol

[Maki]

This has been very interesting. Please continue

[Lownismo17]

not sure if someone said it yet but the only problem i have seen from them is the oil pumps failing after alot of hp.. so everyone buys the N1 models or nismo

[Krazykouki]

not sure if someone said it yet but the only problem i have seen from them is the oil pumps failing after alot of hp.. so everyone buys the N1 models or nismo

Even with the N1 oil pump you need to buy the oil feed reducer that goes on the deck or you it will pump your engine dry.

EDIT:

Tomei sells the oil feed reducer

[BigBoosting]

Even with the N1 oil pump you need to buy the oil feed reducer that goes on the deck or you it will pump your engine dry.

EDIT:

Tomei sells the oil feed reducer

thats only for long exposure to high rpms , which is only relevant if your tracking the car on a road course. Its not a nessecity for a mostly street car