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Thread: NOOO!!! TIME FOR A B16 REBUILD!

  1. #41
    Afghan Goober! TheChosenOne's Avatar
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    Cheaper??? How much is a b20? The guy at the shop said that an ls was 500. and by the time he was finished, the total ls swap would cost me about $1600.

    Last time I blew up my ls, it cost me about $900 for a new motor and to replace it. But I guess since he already took off the head of b16, thats where the extra labor cost comes in.
    Last edited by TheChosenOne; 01-04-2007 at 05:48 PM.
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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
    Cheaper??? How much is a b20? The guy at the shop said that an ls was 500. and by the time he was finished, the total ls swap would cost me about $1600.

    Last time I blew up my ls, it cost me about $900 for a new motor and to replace it. But I guess since he already took off the head of b16, thats where the extra labor cost comes in.
    i get all my motors from HMOTORSONLINE.COM or NADAUTO.com

    thats the only places i trust for a motor.


    B18B 94-95 (LS) Long Block

    Price: $ 749.00 Plus shipping and handling.
    Availability: In stock

    - Motor
    - Intake Manifold
    - Exhaust Manifold
    - Injectors
    - Fuel Rail
    - Throttle body
    - Alternator
    - Distributor

    Long blocks average 25,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.



    B20 Longblock


    B20B 96-98 (CRV) Long Block

    Price: $ 649.00 Plus shipping and handling.
    Availability: In stock and ready to go. JDM Only

    - Motor
    - Intake Manifold
    - Exhaust Manifold
    - Injectors
    - Fuel Rail
    - Throttle body*
    - Distributor

    Long blocks average 35,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.


    as you can see the b20 is $100 cheaper. i dont know where Autofab gets their motors from, but $500 is the CHEAPEST i have ever heard of a good quality LS motor. unless they are buying it from a private party which may mean your getting a 100-150k mile motor.

    but i dont know what they charge or where they get their motors from, you may want to ask
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  3. #43
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    Do the B20 and save for a vtec head.

    And then DONT blow it up.

  4. #44
    Senior Member SLow_POke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
    i get all my motors from HMOTORSONLINE.COM or NADAUTO.com

    thats the only places i trust for a motor.


    B18B 94-95 (LS) Long Block

    Price: $ 749.00 Plus shipping and handling.
    Availability: In stock

    - Motor
    - Intake Manifold
    - Exhaust Manifold
    - Injectors
    - Fuel Rail
    - Throttle body
    - Alternator
    - Distributor

    Long blocks average 25,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.



    B20 Longblock


    B20B 96-98 (CRV) Long Block

    Price: $ 649.00 Plus shipping and handling.
    Availability: In stock and ready to go. JDM Only

    - Motor
    - Intake Manifold
    - Exhaust Manifold
    - Injectors
    - Fuel Rail
    - Throttle body*
    - Distributor

    Long blocks average 35,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty.


    as you can see the b20 is $100 cheaper. i dont know where Autofab gets their motors from, but $500 is the CHEAPEST i have ever heard of a good quality LS motor. unless they are buying it from a private party which may mean your getting a 100-150k mile motor.

    but i dont know what they charge or where they get their motors from, you may want to ask
    also on that note I'm not 100% sure but the last time I personlly tlk to the guy at Hmotors i beleived he supplied the engine to them(link) . he didnt give me a straight answer but might help

    http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.asp?P_ID=140

    2 ls for 1 k


    -Ernie

  5. #45
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    Those are b20b's If you have the option get the b20z. Im pretty sure it is the higher compression version. But I still thought that the b20b's made more than 126 hp.

  6. #46
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    Do the B20 and save for a vtec head.

    And then DONT blow it up.
    lol

    I know. I'll try not to.

    I guess I'll ask Thomas (autofab guy) to order the b20 and just let them finish the job.
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  7. #47
    Senior Member SLow_POke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
    lol

    I know. I'll try not to.

    I guess I'll ask Thomas (autofab guy) to order the b20 and just let them finish the job.
    you should consider what was mentioned earlier as about where they get there ,motors. NOT SAYING ITS BAD

    since you al ready have a b series in it its only plug and play. and use your b16 series trans. all you'll need is a manifold and dizzy

  8. #48
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    i say go b20 more tq who need hp lol. then do a b20vtec u will love it. btw the b20 has good tq for your DA chasis GL

  9. #49
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    So let me get this straight. The b2o should fit right in, and the exact wire harness will work, + some vtec wiring subtraction?

    Will my SiR ecu work? Also, will my dc header fit?
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  10. #50
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    The ecu wont work. You will throw cels for vtec oil pressure and stuff. It will run but just not as good as say an ls ecu or something. I don't think the header will fit either because of the deck height but I am not sure.

  11. #51
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    so basically once I would normally hit vtec, its gunna start running funny?
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    itll probably run fat. You can get an ls ecu for really cheap.

  13. #53
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    sell your PR3 ECU for $100
    Sell your PR3 Dizzy for $100
    Sell your VTEC valve cover for $20
    sell your vtec cams for $50

    Buy an LS OBD0 or OBD1 distributor which is what you need anyway. buy a PR4 ECU. You will use your ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS. cant use RHD harnesses.

    its all plug and play. ive done 6 b20 swaps in DAs, and i drive a DA with a b20 swap, its the easiest thing in the world

    b20s have more TQ, lower mileage USUALLY compared to LS motors
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  14. #54
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    get an ecu with a rev limiter this time too.
    lol

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    get an ecu with a rev limiter this time too.
    lol

    sure thing...
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  16. #56
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    And, oh ya... My wiring harness has been sliced and cut to fit the vtec. I don't know if it will just plug and play with the ls now. So, there is gunna have to be some slight wiring modifications.
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    Senior Member SLow_POke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
    And, oh ya... My wiring harness has been sliced and cut to fit the vtec. I don't know if it will just plug and play with the ls now. So, there is gunna have to be some slight wiring modifications.

    none needed. dont modify it you just wont plug the vtec sol and pressure switch on it

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. KiDD
    sell your PR3 ECU for $100
    Sell your PR3 Dizzy for $100
    Sell your VTEC valve cover for $20
    sell your vtec cams for $50

    Buy an LS OBD0 or OBD1 distributor which is what you need anyway. buy a PR4 ECU. You will use your ORIGINAL WIRING HARNESS. cant use RHD harnesses.

    its all plug and play. ive done 6 b20 swaps in DAs, and i drive a DA with a b20 swap, its the easiest thing in the world

    b20s have more TQ, lower mileage USUALLY compared to LS motors


    ..

  19. #59
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    Hey, this thread isn't dead yet...

    I was wondering how much it would cost to go ls/vtec if I already have a b18a block???
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  20. #60
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    ask autofab

    you should be asking the shop thats doing the work these questions

    my .02
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  21. #61
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    lol... do I sense a little bit of jelousy... ...JK!

    I got another car, so they don't have this one.


    But, I mean, If I buy a head, and the coonversion kit, how much should it cost me to get it running. I heard somewhere that if you co ls/vtec with stock internals, your bound to blow your engine.
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  22. #62
    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    haha jealous?

    no what i mean is, its hard if your a shop, and your vustomer is changing his mind every 5 min, or comes on the internet asking questions. if your doing the work yourself, ask away, if its at a shop, i would ask them, just so it doesnt confuse anyone.

    oh and your going to haveto do a litle research yourself, there are PLENTY of threads STICKIED on LSVTEC and what not to do.

    try Honda-Tech.com
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  23. #63
    Senior Member 99SI's Avatar
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    I believe there is an EXCELLENT write up stickied on this forum about the LS/VTEC conversion. EXTREMELY COMPLETE and well written. READ IT, TWICE , then if you still have questions, shout. Until then, get busy.

  24. #64

  25. #65
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    Dude, I was reading this whole post... THECHOSENONE sucks... Mainstream guys were trying to help your ass out a lot...

    at least from this post, i know that mainstream guys know what they are talking about. if my motor goes, i am gonna go there.
    Blah Blah Blah!

  26. #66
    Afghan Goober! TheChosenOne's Avatar
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    Dude, I was reading this whole post... THECHOSENONE sucks... Mainstream guys were trying to help your ass out a lot...

    at least from this post, i know that mainstream guys know what they are talking about. if my motor goes, i am gonna go there.
    ummm... first off, fuck you latoilette, because I definintly thanked them for all there help, and the only reason I didn't go to mainstream is because its really far from where I live!

    And, Mr.KiDD... I wasn't saing you were jealous. I was mocking myself because I realized that I was asking you a shit load of questions and I STILL didn't bring my car to you. The reason I was askign you is because the AutoFab guys went out of town for some Drift thing. Sorry for the misunderstanding, and next time I wont ask as many questions.
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  27. #67
    Gods Chariot Vteckidd's Avatar
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    no there is not problem with asking questions, im here to help no matter what.

    but what i meant was, sometimes its best to ask the shop for some info, because its hard to deal with so many people on the internet and with a shop doing work on your car.

    thats all
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  28. #68
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    Thanks for your help mike, Seriously. I'll definitly be stopping by for a visit in the near future.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheChosenOne
    Thanks for your help mike, Seriously. I'll definitly be stopping by for a visit in the near future.
    hey man, no need for profanity. after reading this whole thread, i thought it was unfair for you to ask all these questions and mock Mr. Vteckid.

    just disrespecting..and that's not cool at all man.
    Blah Blah Blah!

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