Building a QR motor
The following is a list of the items that should be considered when building/reinforcing your QR25DE. Alot of these things should be done by someone that knows their way around the engine, while others can be done yourself depending on your level of "know-how". Information will be added as it becomes available. Thanks go out to JoelAZ and Gurov for contributing to this topic!

Main Upgrades:
-Pistons and Rods... you want a nice matched set with a larger wristpin, relocated and a better ringpack then stock... Rods should simply accomodate the larger/relocated wristpin and have more strength then stock, which isn't hard to make.

-Crankshaft... Should be cryotreated and balanced.

-Blockguard or Sleeved... If you're installing the blockguard yourself, make sure you're not just hammering the damn thing in there. It should fit snugly, but not feel like it's going to be pushing things left and right. Every qr25 block is a tad different, so you'll require various levels of filing/adjusting. Get some sandpaper/file and make sure it's not going to do more harm than good. Install it recessed 5-6 mm below the deck.

-BSR kit

-Cams

-Upgraded valvesprings, at the very least.

-Porting... Some mild porting wouldn't hurt at this juncture. You may even go to major porting as the turbo works best with larger flow capability.

-Headgasket and headstuds

Fuel:
-Larger injectors

-Return fuel system with an adjustable FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator).

Engine Management:
-Fuel... Well, we've had neat success with just an afc for fuel - forget about having closed loop though, high power engine will def require the lack of o2 sensors so your tune doesn't just move however it wants.

-Spark.... I, (gurov), personally use j&s safeguard, it provides individual cylinder knock based retard and per psi retard as well. it works with our cars i've been using it for several thousand miles so far. attractive little unit BUT it's about $600 for the lot (unit + gauge which i think is essential)

-Spark + Fuel.... You could spend about the same I, (gurov), spent on the j&s and get an emanage ultimate. with a lot of tinkering you could power motor like robbie's. spark retard works. it has its downsides (engrish, horrid interface, horrid log viewer, buggy at times). it gets the job done. this will also require the lack of o2 sensors if you're going to keep the stock ecu.

-Standalone... Bend over and open wide, basically. you'll have to convert to mechanical throttle body and lose cruise control and stock gauge cluster, OR you run standalone and your stock ecu in tandem, only giving the stock ecu enough information to keep the throttle plate operational, install 2 sets of sensors (map, iat, water temp, whatever else). Your stock ecu will be powering your gauge cluster, controlling your idle, controlling the throttle body and other crap, while the "standalone" will be in charge of timing/fuel/boost/whatever.


FI-R VQ Swap Pricing- ( I know you dont want this but ill post it up anyway)

Base Swap-

VQ35DE engine
VQ35DE swap kit
- CNC mount kit
- Nissan VQ35 modified brackets (new)
- Nissan VQ35 6spd bell housing (new)
- Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers
Stock headers (not advised)
FI-R VQ swap y-pipe
Maxima 6spd engine harness
Maxima 6spd ECU
VQ35DE alternator
VQ35DE power steering pump
FI-R VQ swap intake/filter
FI-R solid mounts for VQ swap
Slim cooling fan kit
New belts, fluids, hoses
Modified VQ30DE A/C bracket (retains QR A/C compressor)
Modified A/C system (wiring)
Reuse existing exhaust system (not advised)
Reuse existing clutch (not advised)
Labor to modify QR transmission for VQ engine
Labor to remove existing engine/transmission/wiring
Labor to install VQ35DE engine/transmission
Labor to modify VQ35 wiring harness

** $4995.00 installed
** Add $295.00 for vehicles without immobilizer system (chip in key)

This price includes the exchange of your QR25DE engine. This is part of the reason why we offer the swap at a very reasonable price. If you do not have a good condition QR25DE engine (by good, I mean, no spun bearings, or damaged pistons/rings, valvetrain), please contact us privately to discuss options. Oil consumption is not considered a big issue to us.

Options/upgrades- (all prices include installation)

Stainless headers/y-pipe with flex section (+15whp)- 425.00
2.5" Mandrel exhaust with resonator, and muffler (+10whp)- 349.00
3.0" Mandrel exhaust with resonator, and muffler(+12-15whp)- 389.00
Apexi SAFC II (+5-8whp)- 375.00
JWT 250mm clutch- 335.00
Custom CAI system- 150.00
Fuel pump upgrade- 150.00
New VQ35DE engine cover- 110.00
**Nitrous Express kit (+50-100hp)- 950.00
***FI-R VQ swap turbo system- (+150-350whp) 4295.00


** Requires the use of a larger fuel pump and regulator. Also requires the use of the JWT clutch upgrade- 250.00

*** Requires the use of a larger fuel pump and regulator. This also requires the JWT clutch, and installation of our forged piston/rod kit, and basic rebuild kit, as listed below..




FI-R VQ35DE Built Engine (Add to base price of kit)
- Carillo H-beam rods
- 8.5:1 OR 10.5:1 JE pistons
- JE rings, wrist pins and spiral locks
- Cometic MLS head gaskets
- ARP head studs
- New timing components, bearings, seals
- Labor to tear down engine
- Labor to bore/hone, hot tank, and prep engine
- Labor to blueprint and assemble engine

** $3795.00 (add to base price of swap)

Optional items-

JWT C1 camshafts and valvesprings- 1400.00
Stage 1 Ported cylinder heads- 795.00
Stage 2 Ported cylinder heads(add 1mm over valves/install)- 1195.00


With built engine (low compression), and our turbo system, you will be capable of generating 550-600whp and 475-550wtqm in a completely streetable, daily driveable configuration. With built engine and nitrous kit, you are capable of generating 400whp and 450wtq with the same conditions.

The VQ swap (in any form), does not allow you to retain cruise control. You will throw a check engine light (can be disabled if you wish), for various reasons, beyond our control. This does NOT affect performance at all. The codes are emissions related. Your vehicle WILL pass a tail-pipe "sniffer test", however, it will fail a OBD-II plug in test. Check your local laws for what is/isn't acceptable.

We provide a 30 day "no bullshit" warranty on the engine. If something goes wrong (outside of GROSS negligence), we will replace your engine, at no charge. You will be responsible for shipping/installation. We are very proud to provide a lifetime, no questions asked warranty on the engine mount kit. Smile If it breaks.. send it back, and we'll fix it, no questions asked.