Best way to make a FWD car more oversteer biased?

[§treet_§peed]

Paint your Valve cover Type-R red and instantly gain 30 whp ftw!!!!!

[Five*Star*]

Run the Skunk2 coilover kit with some koni adj. shocks. Run that adj. rear swaybar like you mentioned too. Also, run 4" jacking point clearance (ride height) in front and 4.5" jacking clearance in the rear. Get some good tires like Falken RT-615 or other auto-x tires.... tires make all the difference in the end after the chassis is set-up.


I use to run GC coilovers on my old cx hatch. I had no front swaybar and a stock LS teg rear swaybar. On auto-x it was about perfect on some Falken Azenis.


Also, look into chassis braces... starting with strut bars and lower tie-bars. It will help your responsive-ness, and feel for the car.


Hope that helps... the rear sway makes a big difference, as well as the ride heights like I mentioned. Too-low is not good at all (bouncing off bump-stops kills the handling!!!), and too-high can be bad too.

[Jecht]

Paint your Valve cover Type-R red and instantly gain 30 whp ftw!!!!!

Thanks.

Run the Skunk2 coilover kit with some koni adj. shocks. Run that adj. rear swaybar like you mentioned too. Also, run 4" jacking point clearance (ride height) in front and 4.5" jacking clearance in the rear. Get some good tires like Falken RT-615 or other auto-x tires.... tires make all the difference in the end after the chassis is set-up.
I use to run GC coilovers on my old cx hatch. I had no front swaybar and a stock LS teg rear swaybar. On auto-x it was about perfect on some Falken Azenis.
Also, look into chassis braces... starting with strut bars and lower tie-bars. It will help your responsive-ness, and feel for the car.
Hope that helps... the rear sway makes a big difference, as well as the ride heights like I mentioned. Too-low is not good at all (bouncing off bump-stops kills the handling!!!), and too-high can be bad too.

I appreciate you trying to help, but I already have everything figured out. I already have my Patec Holeshot coilovers, they came in yesterday. I already have nice Pirelli tires. Those aren't true coilovers, those are coilover sleeves. Even with the adjustment in both the shocks and those coilovers sleeves, the amount of work you would have to do to balance the dampening and the ride height doesn't seem like it would be worth it. I plan on setting my coilovers so that the A arms are parallel to the ground.


/thread guys.

[josh green]

just b/c its a sleeve coilover doesnt mean that its shitty. Just about anyone on H-T will tell you to get G/C coilovers with koni yellow shocks. This is not a cheap setup for what it is. You can get any spring rate you want and the koni shocks are badass. I bought the G/C/koni setup for my hatch and it was around $750 for shocks and coilovers. Granted I got a little too stiff of a spring rate than I was comfortable with. I had 500lbs springs front and rear in a basically gutted hatch with a weld in roll bar. If I was to do it all over again, omni coilovers front and rear, they are cheaper and its a threaded shock coilover, not that that makes a difference I just like them.

[voca164e]

a nice cheap way to reduce understeer in a FWD is to disconnect the front anti-sway bar. and add a stiffer rear bar. that is a pretty common low buck trick that I've seen quite a few SCCA guys use. And a good alignment will also help, a bit of toe out on the rear can help also.

[Jecht]

just b/c its a sleeve coilover doesnt mean that its shitty. Just about anyone on H-T will tell you to get G/C coilovers with koni yellow shocks. This is not a cheap setup for what it is. You can get any spring rate you want and the koni shocks are badass. I bought the G/C/koni setup for my hatch and it was around $750 for shocks and coilovers. Granted I got a little too stiff of a spring rate than I was comfortable with. I had 500lbs springs front and rear in a basically gutted hatch with a weld in roll bar. If I was to do it all over again, omni coilovers front and rear, they are cheaper and its a threaded shock coilover, not that that makes a difference I just like them.

I didn't say they were necessarily bad. The coilovers I have are Patec Holeshot Series 4. It only cost me $745 shipped for them, brand new. This isn't a Honda. This is a Volkswagen they are going on, I would rather trust a tried and true part that is common with other Volkswagen drivers. I already have them though, so there is no point in arguing about it.