thats no secret, REPOST.

you break a motor in the WAY it is designed to run. IE if your building a 600whp car, break it in HARD.

Creating vacuum is the only way to properly seat the rings. IE you want to do quick bursts of speed an coast down letting the transmission slow the car down, this creates a massive vacuum in the cylinder that pushed the rings out against the cylinder wall. if the motor is built right, there should be no problems running it up to redline with less than 10 miles on it (with proper air/fuels of course)

this is how we break all our customer motors in. We crank them up an let them idle to operating temp. Let it sit an run for 15min at idle. Shut them off, change the oil and replace oil filter. Drive it to the dyno, strap it down, and tune for idle, then do WOT pulls to 6000rpms. THen after the a/f ratios are acceptable, rev it out to redline.

hell, my 2.0l LSVTEC we cranked up on the engine dyno, let it idle, checked for leaks, then proceeded to do 8900rpm pulls. I never saw any problems out of that bottom end, and it lived long enough to see 300+ dyno pulls on a chassis dyno.